Never like my binding
#41
After using several different sizes of binding strips, I have found that 2 1/4" works best for me. I sew with a 1/4" seam and don't have a problem with the binding not being full. But I have found that when I used (notice the word USED) low loft polyester batting my edges were very limp. I only use Warm and Natural or others similar to it and never have problems with that type of batting. I have heard about leaving a little of the batting around the quilt when trimming, and also have heard of others who don't iron their binding in half. I'd be afraid then when trimming my edges I'd cut something I shouldn't. As for the ironing of the binding in half, I'd have to make a mental note NOT to, it just seems I'm on automatic drive when making binding. I love the binding part and to each his or her own on how they do it.
#42
Super Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,391
I iron my bindings in half. Never had a problem, so I suppose I will continue to do that.
I trim the bulk of the extra batting and back, just so it is out of my way, leaving about an inch. Then sew the binding onto the quilt top with the 1/4 in. seam. We don't want to lose points. Leave that extra batt and back on.
When I come to a corner, I stop 1/4 inch from the edge of the quilt top, sew into the corner on the 45º angle, and LEAVE THE NEEDLE DOWN at the tip of the corner. That little extra batt and back will hold the quilt at the needle. Turn the quilt to sew the other side and PINCH the binding to form that fold at the corner. Lay the fold down so the edges are in the correct spots. Then lift the needle, move over to the sewing line and start sewing. No taking the quilt out of the machine, no starting a new line of sewing (with the possibility of thread nests).
After the binding is sewn on, lay the ruler on and trim to desired width with a rotary cutter. Do short segments at a time. You will be far enough away so you won't cut into the folds at the corners.
I have seen one quilt that actually had piping rope inserted into the binding to make a fat edge. Looked fine.
I trim the bulk of the extra batting and back, just so it is out of my way, leaving about an inch. Then sew the binding onto the quilt top with the 1/4 in. seam. We don't want to lose points. Leave that extra batt and back on.
When I come to a corner, I stop 1/4 inch from the edge of the quilt top, sew into the corner on the 45º angle, and LEAVE THE NEEDLE DOWN at the tip of the corner. That little extra batt and back will hold the quilt at the needle. Turn the quilt to sew the other side and PINCH the binding to form that fold at the corner. Lay the fold down so the edges are in the correct spots. Then lift the needle, move over to the sewing line and start sewing. No taking the quilt out of the machine, no starting a new line of sewing (with the possibility of thread nests).
After the binding is sewn on, lay the ruler on and trim to desired width with a rotary cutter. Do short segments at a time. You will be far enough away so you won't cut into the folds at the corners.
I have seen one quilt that actually had piping rope inserted into the binding to make a fat edge. Looked fine.
#43
What she said...
I leave an extra 1/4 batting on also... I do trim it before sewing and then when I sew on the binding I am actually sewing it 1/2 inch from the edge..or 1/4 is the batting and then I sew 1/4 from the edge of the fabric.
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#44
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 9,413
#45
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 9,413
#47
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Maple City, MI
Posts: 2,135
I sew bindings professionally (meaning people pay me to do it.) Here are my tips for a full binding:
DO NOT IRON THE BINDING IN HALF.
I use a 2" wide strip for binding. This will give you a 1/4" binding width on both front and back of quilt.
DO NOT IRON THE BINDING IN HALF.
Make sure, as you're sewing the binding on to the edge of the quilt, that you have a 1/4" seam. I cannot tell you how many customer bindings I work on, where the customer has attached the binding with less than a quarter-inch seam.
And once again, DO NOT IRON THE BINDING IN HALF.
DO NOT IRON THE BINDING IN HALF.
I use a 2" wide strip for binding. This will give you a 1/4" binding width on both front and back of quilt.
DO NOT IRON THE BINDING IN HALF.
Make sure, as you're sewing the binding on to the edge of the quilt, that you have a 1/4" seam. I cannot tell you how many customer bindings I work on, where the customer has attached the binding with less than a quarter-inch seam.
And once again, DO NOT IRON THE BINDING IN HALF.
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cedar Falls, IA
Posts: 918
What finally works for me was serging the edges of the quilt before applying the binding. The thread in the serged edge gives stability to the quilt and makes it very easy for me to attach the binding.
Pam
Edit for autocorrect corrections!
Pam
Edit for autocorrect corrections!
#49
I am thinking I need to try the "don't iron" technique. I have three quilts to bind soon...
Does anyone have any advice how I can hand sew the mitered corners better? My stitches seem to always show and those stitches for whatever reason are especially unattractive. Thanks in advance!
Does anyone have any advice how I can hand sew the mitered corners better? My stitches seem to always show and those stitches for whatever reason are especially unattractive. Thanks in advance!
#50
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,420
There is no law that says a binding has to be a certain width.
I like wider bindings (I usually cut them about 2-7/8 inches) and I am more comfortable using bias binding.
For me - pinning the edges together first to make sure that the binding lays "right" and then machine basting the edges of the binding together with a longish, narrow zigzag stitch is an important step for me. Otherwise, one edge would sometimes get away from me.
I trim my quilt sandwich to the finished size and also sew the edges together about 1/8 inch from the edge.
My reason for doing this is - I only have two things to match up then, instead of five.
I usually do a test run on a scrap sandwich using the same batting, etc. to verify settings and widths before i go very far down the road.
As far as bias binding using more fabric than straight cut binding - it takes so many square inches of fabric no matter which way it is cut. - okay, there might be a little bit of scrap at the corners, but not very much.
If I did use straight cut binding, I would use whichever way had more stretch - which is usually the width of fabric instead of lengthwise grain.
I did use T-shirt fabric once for a binding. Turned out great!
I like wider bindings (I usually cut them about 2-7/8 inches) and I am more comfortable using bias binding.
For me - pinning the edges together first to make sure that the binding lays "right" and then machine basting the edges of the binding together with a longish, narrow zigzag stitch is an important step for me. Otherwise, one edge would sometimes get away from me.
I trim my quilt sandwich to the finished size and also sew the edges together about 1/8 inch from the edge.
My reason for doing this is - I only have two things to match up then, instead of five.
I usually do a test run on a scrap sandwich using the same batting, etc. to verify settings and widths before i go very far down the road.
As far as bias binding using more fabric than straight cut binding - it takes so many square inches of fabric no matter which way it is cut. - okay, there might be a little bit of scrap at the corners, but not very much.
If I did use straight cut binding, I would use whichever way had more stretch - which is usually the width of fabric instead of lengthwise grain.
I did use T-shirt fabric once for a binding. Turned out great!
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12-25-2010 09:49 PM