Need help raw edge applique
11-23-2015, 08:39 AM
#11
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,140
I agree with Feline Fanatic. Try a Microtex needle. Also, you might try spritzing it with a decent amount of water to see how much the holes will shrink up when wet. I also would at least switch out the bobbin thread to a matching cotton.
11-23-2015, 09:52 AM
#12
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,198
The Schmetz Microtex needles I have are sized 60/8, 70/10, 80/12, 90/14 and 100/16. I haven't seen a machine needle smaller than 60/8. I do not recommend using Universal needles.
I had this problem, too, on a turned edge machine applique project, except it was on the black fabric. I used a very small zig zag stitch, a 60/8 Schmetz microtex needle, and switched to a black silk thread, which is a 100 wt. thread.
I had this problem, too, on a turned edge machine applique project, except it was on the black fabric. I used a very small zig zag stitch, a 60/8 Schmetz microtex needle, and switched to a black silk thread, which is a 100 wt. thread.
11-24-2015, 03:54 AM
#14
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Pleasant Hill MO
Posts: 1,669
I find when using batiks it is hard not to see the holes, however all the suggestions about smaller needle and matching thread will help. I also find that batiks don't fray as much as 100% cotton which makes a different looking edge.
11-24-2015, 04:14 AM
#15
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Heart of Colorado's majestic mountains!
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I also think the smallest needle possible and fine silk thread would give a better outcome. It is a bit tricky because this portion is so prominent. Perhaps you could do these small portions by hand. If that does not produce the effect you want consider making the light spots a focal point with a design feature. Somehow I don't think you intend this piece to be laundered so thinking the holes would shrink out probably isn't realistic.
11-24-2015, 04:36 AM
#17
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 142
I am working on a similar project. I am using a fine needle and a fine thread but......but.......I am using the blind stitch sized to 1.5 width and 1.5 length having the straight stitch part run along the edge and the perpendicular part of the stitch go in towards the appliqué itself. Looks pretty good so far. Give it a try.
11-24-2015, 07:38 AM
#18
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Littlefield, TX, USA
Posts: 1,077
Hello all
I have a raw edge appliqué project I'm working on. Method used was steam-a-seam Lite 2 .. all fabrics are batiks. When I've done raw edge in the past, I stitched along the edge with monofilament to make the appliqué permanent. I've never worked with light fabrics before though ... never had this problem.
See sample below (a test sample - not my project). See how the needle holes show so prominently on the light fabric? The dark fabrics are fine.
Using Sulky clear monofiliment top and bottom, dropped my needle size down to a Klasse Universal 60/8.
Any other suggestions to stitch down the lighter colored pieces? I don't like those needle holes showing on the piece. Some of my light fabrics are large pieces, some are tiny.
I have a raw edge appliqué project I'm working on. Method used was steam-a-seam Lite 2 .. all fabrics are batiks. When I've done raw edge in the past, I stitched along the edge with monofilament to make the appliqué permanent. I've never worked with light fabrics before though ... never had this problem.
See sample below (a test sample - not my project). See how the needle holes show so prominently on the light fabric? The dark fabrics are fine.
Using Sulky clear monofiliment top and bottom, dropped my needle size down to a Klasse Universal 60/8.
Any other suggestions to stitch down the lighter colored pieces? I don't like those needle holes showing on the piece. Some of my light fabrics are large pieces, some are tiny.
11-24-2015, 09:38 AM
#19
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,585
I've done a few projects with raw-edge applique. The whole purpose for using the "invisible" nylon thread is to avoid the necessity of matching colors. My machine would not accept the invisible thread on the top and on the bottom -- it works fine to use it on the top, but not on the bottom. I also found that the holes disappear once the item is washed.
Just my 2 cents worth!
Jeanette
Just my 2 cents worth!
Jeanette
11-24-2015, 10:30 AM
#20
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Northern Arizona
Posts: 84
I have always had this happen while using any type of "invisible" thread! The holes didn't ever close up, and after hanging on the wall for a year, the invisible thread stretched, so now my project looks like a total mess. The other projects I made at the same time, and stitched using a small needle and regular thread, still look great. I have tried about 10 different types and brands of invisible thread, and have been disappointed by all of them.
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