bkay

I took my newly acquired second (or third) hand Touch n sew in for adjusting, as the tension was off. The guy told me to buy a Singer 601 or 602 if I bought another used machine. Would the 600 be equivalent (I've seen two 600s on Craig's list for $50.00 each recently) .

Another question is more convoluted. Someone told me the 400 series were really good machines, but he said they have timing problems. Are they problem machines?

I'd love to have a machine like I learned to sew on. It was an old singer that was purchased new about 1952 or 53. We never had any problems with tension, etc. It sewed beautifully. Any idea what the model would be? I thought it was a 15 something from looking at them on Craig's List, but then I read something about a treadle being at 15 something. I've kept looking and think maybe it's a 33 something.

Any help would be appreciated.
bkay

Mickey2

Early 1950s Singer, could be model 15; it came in various versions, regarding motor (potted/belted) , stitch length adjuster (knob/lever, lever=revers stitching). Other straight stitcher common in those years; model 66, 99 (smaller), 201. You mention model 33, but it's an industrial machine, not common for the home. Long bobbin models was still in production(128/127). I'm guessing not the most common either, though 128 was made until the early 60s. By the 50s they all had the same upper tension mechanism with a numbered dial.

Can you remember the bobbin? Was it round with or with out holes in the side? Slighly curved sides or flat? Long bobbin or round bobbin? Revers lever or a simple stitch length knob? Was it a drop in bobbin case (bobbin inserted horizontally) or was there a bobbin case you took out each time you had the bobbin out?

As far as I know the 400 series are very dependable machine, there shouldn't be any particular problem with timing. Any issues should be fixable and with lasting result.

I don't know much about the 600 series, but I have read here on the forum and elsewhere; some early 600 series were all metal, some had a few plastic gears. You have to check each machine because the exact same model turns up sometimes all metal sometimes with plastic gears. An all metal machine is a pluss, especially as the decades go by, but I don't mind plastic gears too much. They can last decades and can usually be replaced if worn down or damaged; These days replacements have better plastic material than they often used then.

miriam

Any machine can have tension problems. It is a matter of understanding how a tension works. I'm thinking if you look in the sticky notes you may find resources for adjusting the tension. Or go in the upper right hand corner of this page and search tension adjustment. It isn't always that knob that is the problem with a tension. The Singer machines made before 1970 are pretty much ok. The Japanese machines with out plastic are pretty much ok. But anything can happen once they are in someone's hands. I have serviced a lot of machines that don't work. They are mostly user errors. I am mainly on another board these days as are a lot of knowledgeable people.

Karamarie

I was kind of wanting a featherweight but when heading down south this winter, we stopped at an antique/junk store and I found a Singer 99k machine. I also was kind of wanting a machine like I learned on. I checked the serial number and the one I got was made in 1950 so I'm thinking it could be like the one I learned on. It is a portable and a 3/4 machine - a cute little girl. I got it for a great price as someone had stolen the pressure foot while on display at the store. I will post a picture when I figure out how to do that.

bkay

I have one of her bobbins. It was in my sewing box. It has holes in the sides and is flat with a little notch in the side. You took the bobbin holder out with a little lever (on the side of the holder) and inserted the bobbin into it pulled the thread through the side (for tension, I guess). Then you inserted the whole thing vertically into the hole under the needle.

It had an adjustable stitch length and a lever for reverse. It had a spindle on the base for your spool of thread for filling the bobbin.

I don't remember it having a belt.

I learned to sew on that machine making doll clothes. At first, it was very crude, but my sewing improved and eventually I made most of my clothes while I was in school. It would be perfect for piecing quilts.

My mom passed last year and her husband still has the machine, but I don't think he would let me have it. The DH suggested that I just find one and buy it.

bk

Mickey2

Model 99 came in three various guises over the years. I think it was introduced in 1911 and around 1950 it was given a stitch length lever with backtak, not true reverse like model 201 or 15 but with a set stitch length in reverse. There were two versions of the reverse lever, and some alterations to the bobbin case and hook along the way too. I have an electrical 99K from 1934, with the the stitch length knob. In spite of what you might read or hear from someone, this is a smooth machine when cleaned, oiled and set up right. There shouldn't be much noise at all. Perhaps you can remember any look or feature when looking at the pictures on this site. It's a much tougher model than the Featherweight, it will take on any job you can fit under the presser foot and it will do it for at least two or three generations.

From your description I think the old machine you remember might have been a model 15-91, the version with the potted motor. It's quite a sought after model among quilters and those who do free motion stitching. It's the only domestic model I can think of with this type bobbin case (much like Berninas), and it came in a version with a direct drive motor (no belt).

I found photos of bobbins here, class 66 and 15 are the most common.
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Sewnoma

bkay - from your description it does sound a lot like a Singer 15. Do you remember if the tension pointed to the left as you sat at the machine, or if it pointed towards you? If the tension was on the nose and pointed off to the left, that's almost certainly a Singer 15. They are good solid stitchers and came in a variety of setups over the years - some are treadle, some are motorized, some have been both at some point in their history!

I have a Singer 403 and a Singer 500 and I like them both very much and have had no timing problems on either. They are slant-shank, which I think is a marvelous invention - slant shank machines are my favorite of my vintage machines to sew on. I've never sewn on or owned a 600-series Singer so I can't comment on those, but check for plastic gears. If there aren't any plastic gears, it's probably going to be a pretty decent machine.

aronel

Find a 401, reasonable and have a great time learning to sew again. I have numerous machines including a very expensive Viking. My 401A out sews it all to pieces! I sew on all my Singers and IMHO, nothing out sews any better than the old all metal Singers!

carolynjo

Agree with aronel; my (then) new husband purchased me a Singer slant-needle 401 A the year we were married (1958). That machine is a tank and I have sewed everything from seat covers for our VW beetle, awnings, wedding dresses, and you name it. It has been in hospital only 1 time in all those years and still is my go-to machine.

tessagin

I love my 401 and so does DH. I got my 401 at an estate sale. It is the best purchase/find I have ever come across. Dh was not to keen but he grew up using a 401 and a treadle. He mended his denim jacket with and uses it often to relax.