1st Quilt: Thread color advice
07-14-2016, 11:13 PM
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 24
One more thing...
Part of me is reluctant to suggest this, but as a beginning quilter, I think this might be a good time to break my general rule of quilting every 2". This isn't a quilt that is going to be washed every week, neither is it likely to become a family heirloom. It is a wonderful, loving gift to your nephew from you. So here's what I'd suggest for the quilting (make sure you either have a Dual Feed machine or else you'll need to install a Walking Foot to do the quilting). I'm not sure what kind of batting you used. Some battings need to be quilted every 2" or else they bunch up inside the quilt when washed. Other ones, like Warm & Natural can be quilted 10" apart or more without issue. Assuming you have a batting that can be quilted farther apart, here's what I'd recommend:
Note: The orange lines are so they show up in my illustration. I would quilt in that medium grey of your background fabric.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]553968[/ATTACH]
Trying to quilt inside the TWD fabric gets a lot trickier unless you just quilt right over the print & don't worry about it (which isn't as horrible as it sounds). Over time, with many more hours of practice, you may decide to try your hand at Free Motion Quilting which would allow you to easily change direction within the rectangle to outline all the little shapes & even do decorative designs around them. You need to Stitch in the Ditch first for those designs anyways, so this will be a great practice piece for you to learn more about quilting. Just go slow (set your machine on the slowest setting if you have a speed dial). Stitch length should be 3mm or 9 stitches per inch is a good length for SID. Or you could make it a bit shorter (as short as 2.5mm or 10 stitches per inch). The walking foot, if you need one, is pretty clunky & it can be hard to tell if it is up or down. If you don't see your fabric moving when you press the speed pedal, odds are the walking foot (presser foot) is up. Same thing with nests of thread.
That said, it really isn't terribly difficult to learn to quilt with a walking foot (or dual feed machine) if you already know how to use your sewing machine for basic sewing. Making a practice piece (at least 12x12, preferably Fat Quarter size which is 18x22" or even a 1/2 yard) does help, though. It will allow you to get your machine settings just right for your quilting project. You usually need to lower the top tension to somewhere between 1-3, depending on your machine. You want the same thread in the top & bobbin. And make sure you use a fresh needle. Universal needles do not work great for quilting. I love Microtex needles. For a 50wt, 2 ply thread, a 70/10 Microtex (aka, Sharp) needle works well. For a 50wt, 3 ply thread, a 80/12 Microtex needle works nicely. You can also use a Top Stitch needle in size 80 or 90. Or a Quilting needle. Needles should last 8 hours of quilting time if undamaged.
BTW -- love your design!!! Your nephew is one lucky guy!
Part of me is reluctant to suggest this, but as a beginning quilter, I think this might be a good time to break my general rule of quilting every 2". This isn't a quilt that is going to be washed every week, neither is it likely to become a family heirloom. It is a wonderful, loving gift to your nephew from you. So here's what I'd suggest for the quilting (make sure you either have a Dual Feed machine or else you'll need to install a Walking Foot to do the quilting). I'm not sure what kind of batting you used. Some battings need to be quilted every 2" or else they bunch up inside the quilt when washed. Other ones, like Warm & Natural can be quilted 10" apart or more without issue. Assuming you have a batting that can be quilted farther apart, here's what I'd recommend:
Note: The orange lines are so they show up in my illustration. I would quilt in that medium grey of your background fabric.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]553968[/ATTACH]
Trying to quilt inside the TWD fabric gets a lot trickier unless you just quilt right over the print & don't worry about it (which isn't as horrible as it sounds). Over time, with many more hours of practice, you may decide to try your hand at Free Motion Quilting which would allow you to easily change direction within the rectangle to outline all the little shapes & even do decorative designs around them. You need to Stitch in the Ditch first for those designs anyways, so this will be a great practice piece for you to learn more about quilting. Just go slow (set your machine on the slowest setting if you have a speed dial). Stitch length should be 3mm or 9 stitches per inch is a good length for SID. Or you could make it a bit shorter (as short as 2.5mm or 10 stitches per inch). The walking foot, if you need one, is pretty clunky & it can be hard to tell if it is up or down. If you don't see your fabric moving when you press the speed pedal, odds are the walking foot (presser foot) is up. Same thing with nests of thread.
That said, it really isn't terribly difficult to learn to quilt with a walking foot (or dual feed machine) if you already know how to use your sewing machine for basic sewing. Making a practice piece (at least 12x12, preferably Fat Quarter size which is 18x22" or even a 1/2 yard) does help, though. It will allow you to get your machine settings just right for your quilting project. You usually need to lower the top tension to somewhere between 1-3, depending on your machine. You want the same thread in the top & bobbin. And make sure you use a fresh needle. Universal needles do not work great for quilting. I love Microtex needles. For a 50wt, 2 ply thread, a 70/10 Microtex (aka, Sharp) needle works well. For a 50wt, 3 ply thread, a 80/12 Microtex needle works nicely. You can also use a Top Stitch needle in size 80 or 90. Or a Quilting needle. Needles should last 8 hours of quilting time if undamaged.
BTW -- love your design!!! Your nephew is one lucky guy!
For the batting, I got Heirloom 80/20. I got enough to make a queen, but the quilt will end up between a throw and a double size, so I have a lot of room for error. Plus, I wanted some excess to play with. The package says I can quilt between 1/4" and 3-1/2", so I may have to figure something out for some of the larger areas, but like you said, it is probably going to be minimally used, and rarely washed...so I may be able to get away with larger unquilted spaces. You think? Or I could quilt around each square in the print like someone else suggested.
Believe it or not, I've been sewing with a Singer 96-10, which was made in 1924, until recently. It's an amazing machine, a total workhorse as long as you keep it oiled, but very few options. For Christmas, I got a Brother LB6800 (which is supposed to be almost identical to the SE400) so now I have all these bells and whistles I'm still learning about. I do have a walking foot, but haven't used it yet. I read that it was pretty much required to keep the sandwich feeding through evenly. Your information on the stitch length is invaluable! That's one of those settings I've never had as an option digitally before...my old machine has a thumb screw that you use to loosen a knob that moves up and down and you just move it and tighten the thumb screw again. It is a simple machine...I think the manual is all of about 18 pages, total. My new machine came with 4 manuals totalling about 200 pages.
I just went and checked my needle stash and I do have a pack of Microtex, but only the 80/12, not the 70/10. I also have a ton of excess fabric, so maybe I'll use the weekend to make a 'mini' version...for practice. I got so ahead of myself, and I am so glad I decided to reach out for thread advice. The thing about doing something new is not knowing what you don't know. I am so grateful for all of you taking the time to help a newbie. I have really enjoyed making this so far and I'm sure if I had just barreled forward, it would have been very frustrating.
07-15-2016, 05:56 AM
#24
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,140
I would not quilt it less than what the batting recommends. It only takes one time through the wash to bunch up the batting (might last more, but you know how I know). Hobb's is a fantastic batting. It's what I use for hand quilting because it provides great definition.
You'll need the foundation quilting that I drew out in any case. I'd start with that & see how you do. One option would be to go back in after the foundation work is done & use a smoke colored monofilament on top & the same grey cotton in your bobbin as before & quilt in between with the mono so you get enough quilting. That's probably what I'd recommend. You want to be sure to buy a POLYESTER mono as it is more flexible than nylon.
You'll need the foundation quilting that I drew out in any case. I'd start with that & see how you do. One option would be to go back in after the foundation work is done & use a smoke colored monofilament on top & the same grey cotton in your bobbin as before & quilt in between with the mono so you get enough quilting. That's probably what I'd recommend. You want to be sure to buy a POLYESTER mono as it is more flexible than nylon.
07-15-2016, 06:46 AM
#25
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 8,174
What a fun quilt! Are you quilting each row and then planning to join the rows? If you are, have you decided what method you will join them? Some of the Quilt-as-you-go methods require some hand stitching on the back.
07-15-2016, 07:39 AM
#27
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 24
I would not quilt it less than what the batting recommends. It only takes one time through the wash to bunch up the batting (might last more, but you know how I know). Hobb's is a fantastic batting. It's what I use for hand quilting because it provides great definition.
You'll need the foundation quilting that I drew out in any case. I'd start with that & see how you do. One option would be to go back in after the foundation work is done & use a smoke colored monofilament on top & the same grey cotton in your bobbin as before & quilt in between with the mono so you get enough quilting. That's probably what I'd recommend. You want to be sure to buy a POLYESTER mono as it is more flexible than nylon.
You'll need the foundation quilting that I drew out in any case. I'd start with that & see how you do. One option would be to go back in after the foundation work is done & use a smoke colored monofilament on top & the same grey cotton in your bobbin as before & quilt in between with the mono so you get enough quilting. That's probably what I'd recommend. You want to be sure to buy a POLYESTER mono as it is more flexible than nylon.
I've never used monofilament thread. I just did a quick search and looks like either Sulky or Superior Threads are my choices for polyester. Do you know which would be the better choice? It looks like they are similar in price...a dollar difference for the same amount.
07-15-2016, 07:58 AM
#28
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 24
I have watched a ton of youtube videos on different ways to QAYG. The easier methods looked like I'd have some bulk at the joined area because they just stitched through the whole sandwich and then pressed it down. And others, as you said, required some hand stitching. And yet another way that included sashing (which I didn't think I was ready for). I ended up settling on one that went row by row by a lady called Candy Glendening. She quilts one entire row, then pins her next row, top fabric face down on top of the row already quilted. Then she pins the backing, face up on the bottom. Then she sews a 1/4" seam to attach the next row without the batting inserted to the second row. Then she inserts the batting and butts it right up next to the first row and quilts it. She uses fusible batting though, so I hope that doesn't affect it too much, since I'm not.
07-15-2016, 08:01 AM
#29
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 24
07-15-2016, 08:05 AM
#30
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 24
Thank you! There is something extremely relaxing about cutting perfectly uniform pieces of fabric. Looking back, if I could change anything, I would have been more selective about where I made my cuts to maximize the 'comic book' effect. This time around, I was more focused on getting all my rectangles, squares, and strips exactly the same size.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
himnherr
Pictures
29
02-15-2012 07:47 AM
