yellowwroses

If you were binding small table runner or pot holder would you do it from the back and bring to front and machine sew? Have trouble using arm so want it to look nice but easy. If you do bring to front what machine stitch would you use to sew it down?
Thanks,
Judy

Prism99

I would do it that way. After sewing to the back, I find it helpful to secure the binding to the front with tiny drops of Elmer's white glue and my iron -- "glue pinning". If I do it and it's not straight, it's easy to lift up the binding and re-glue into the correct position. Afterwards, at the sewing machine, I do not have to worry about removing pins, and the glue keeps the binding more stable for me than pins.

If your machine has a feather stitch (or other decorative stitch) that does *not* have a stitch running through the middle, that is the easiest to use on the front because any slight deviations while you sew are not obvious on the back. The problem with a straight stitch, or a decorative stitch that has stitches through the center, is that any slight deviations in sewing will be obvious on the back.

Tartan

You could forgo binding and pillowcase small projects instead. After turning right side out, machine top stitch the edge to close and to make the edge neat.

Donnamarie

Yes, definitely, sew on the back and bring it over to the front. I machine quilt down all my quilt bindings, large or small. I really like to use the same fabric (or same fabric color) for the binding and the backing. That way when you sew down from the front, your thread color should match and you it should blend right in.

AliKat

That's how I do most of my bindings no matter the size of the project. This way I can use a fanccy stitch if I want and make sure it al looks nice from the front.

salederer

I bring it to the front then use one of the decorative stitches on my machine to sew it down.

MadQuilter

I most often use flanged binding and sew it down from the front along the flange (matching thread color). Love that method as it really hides the stitch.

MargeD

I make lots of place mats and table runners to sell at craft fairs and I use the "burp" method. I put the front and backing together then add the batting on the back, sew around the edge 1/4", then turn right side out. I can never seem to make my hand stitching the opening closed to look right so recently I have used fusible basting tape or 1/4" fusible iron on tape and I prefer that. After quilting the place mats or runners, I top stitch about 1/2" around the edge which looks like I have used bias binding strips, I haven't heard any complaints about my workmanship. I've been quilting for many years, but I have never seemed to master pulling the backing around to the front, but whatever floats your boat.

connie d

I am wondering if there are any rag quilters out there and do you wash your fabric before you start ??? I am new at this and I would like to give a rag quilt as a gift and I want it to look and be as good as possible.. Thanks for any help in advance...

Prism99

connie d, you will get a better response if you start a new thread with rag quilt in the title.

I think many quilters use 3 layers of flannel for their rag quilts and do pre-wash their fabric (a couple of times) because flannel can shrink a lot. Some flannels don't shrink at all, but some shrink significantly. Although I don't normally pre-wash quilt fabrics, I would do it if I were making a rag quilt.

Cutting the "rags" is hard on the hands. It's worth investing in a special scissors for this. Also, be aware that the first and second wash of a rag quilt can generate *tons* of lint that can actually clog up your washer and dryer. Not sure about the washer, but with a home dryer it's a good idea to stop every 10 minutes to clean the lint filter.