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Kenmore SM Pictures and information

Kenmore SM Pictures and information

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Old 06-01-2014, 11:31 AM
  #11  
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This machine does not look like it was refinished. It seems just like brand new out of the box, except for the pock marked little label that says "Commander" and it is almost illegible from the beating it took. I have sewed with the machine, but the seams kinda bunch up as you move forward. I don't know how to deal with that. You can stretch the stitches out smooth if you leave enough cut-off at the end of the seam. I might not have it going right through the tension--it is really weird, on the end of the head--as you can see from pictures. It doesn't seem to have a tension piece. But it is easy to thread; and maybe just isn't so contrary about being threaded just right to make it sew.

Thanks, Joe, for all the information. I am so thankful for being on this board. We own the Country Junction here in Macon County, and I was talking with one of the dancers last night and she was on the board a long time ago and remembers a guy who used to post all the time. I think she said his name might have been Glen. She was wondering if I knew of him. Do you? She said she thought he might have been from Florida. I told her you're our mostly "go to guy" for good information now.

Last edited by oldtnquiltinglady; 06-01-2014 at 11:35 AM. Reason: add another sentence
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Old 06-01-2014, 03:57 PM
  #12  
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Gah! Miriam that IS a disaster! I have heard about Singers that were re-done. What is the deal with that?
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Old 06-01-2014, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrs. SewNSew View Post
Gah! Miriam that IS a disaster! I have heard about Singers that were re-done. What is the deal with that?
It was one of the cluster from the Amish guy. I think being stored in an un-vented attic didn't help it any.
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Old 06-01-2014, 04:59 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by oldtnquiltinglady View Post
This machine does not look like it was refinished. It seems just like brand new out of the box, except for the pock marked little label that says "Commander" and it is almost illegible from the beating it took. I have sewed with the machine, but the seams kinda bunch up as you move forward. I don't know how to deal with that. You can stretch the stitches out smooth if you leave enough cut-off at the end of the seam. I might not have it going right through the tension--it is really weird, on the end of the head--as you can see from pictures. It doesn't seem to have a tension piece. But it is easy to thread; and maybe just isn't so contrary about being threaded just right to make it sew.

Thanks, Joe, for all the information. I am so thankful for being on this board. We own the Country Junction here in Macon County, and I was talking with one of the dancers last night and she was on the board a long time ago and remembers a guy who used to post all the time. I think she said his name might have been Glen. She was wondering if I knew of him. Do you? She said she thought he might have been from Florida. I told her you're our mostly "go to guy" for good information now.
JoAnn,

Did you get an owners manual with this machine? Threading them is easy but has to be done exactly right.
In case you didn't get a manual here is a drawing on how to thread a White made machine:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]477584[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]477586[/ATTACH]
Although these instructions are for the 117 series Kenmores they are all but identical to your machine and if you follow them it will work.

The bunching of the fabric is probably because the top tension is set too tight. Unlike Singers and most other machines the White made machines have a two piece top tension. The lever on the front of the the needle bar housing, and the goofy looking deal with the springs at the bottom of the left end are the two parts. The lever actually controls the mechanism on the end.

I notice your tension is set at "3". Back it down to "2" or "2½" and try stitching again. I have three machines similar to yours and they all sew better at 2 to 2 ½ on the top tension.

Also take a piece of fabric and sew a seam on the diagonal. Then pull the puckered material flat and see weather the top or the bottom thread is too tight. Whichever is too tight will break. I've done that a lot, but I don't usually worry about sewing on the diagonal. I just run a seam and pull it till one of the threads break. In my cases it's usually been the top thread.

We have a Glenn who's forum name is Skip, but I think the guy you might be thinking of would be Billy. He was on his way out as I was coming in. I have no idea of the details, but from what I've heard he was kicked off the forum.

Here is my White DRESSMASTER "Louise":
[ATTACH=CONFIG]477587[/ATTACH]
Yes, she is actually OD Green, my Army Machine.

MY DRESSMASTER is very similar to your Commander.

Joe
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Old 07-27-2020, 08:46 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by oldtnquiltinglady View Post
Well, I have a GS here holding my hand and working me through this process. We have looked up everything we could find on a sewing machine that was given to me last weekend by my cousin at our family reunion.

According to what we find, it is a 1938 Commander and I think I read something else that might mean it is a Singer clone. But to find this information, the little tag inside the machine shows it to be a Sears (117.300) (26770).

The tension seems a little tight, but I did get it adjusted enough to make a couple of quilt squares. It is very quiet and smooth, but HEAVY doesn't even begin to describe the machine. I have to call in a man to get it moved from Point A to Point B. It is in a rounded wood carrying case, but the handle is still intact. I get worried though, every time someone picks it up, because of the weight of machine inside of it. It has a veneer finish on the outside of the cabinet, so that makes me think it is real wood, rather than make-believe type wood of so many of today's wood products.

I have the exact same sewing machine! Your post helped me identify it. Do you have any tips on how to clean and maintain it?
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Old 07-27-2020, 09:53 AM
  #16  
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Hi tavaco,

Oldquilting lasy's last post was many years ago. You may want to start a new post if you know the name/model of your machine. Welcome aboard.
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Old 07-27-2020, 10:31 AM
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I was just hopeful to get a reply. I surely will start a new thread!
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Old 07-27-2020, 01:59 PM
  #18  
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Ok , I just got a better look. Kenmores of that era were made by White The initial images screwm "White" to some of us
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Old 07-27-2020, 02:04 PM
  #19  
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This one is a little bit newer than yours.
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Old 10-24-2023, 05:20 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by oldtnquiltinglady View Post
Well, I have a GS here holding my hand and working me through this process. We have looked up everything we could find on a sewing machine that was given to me last weekend by my cousin at our family reunion.

According to what we find, it is a 1938 Commander and I think I read something else that might mean it is a Singer clone. But to find this information, the little tag inside the machine shows it to be a Sears (117.300) (26770).

The tension seems a little tight, but I did get it adjusted enough to make a couple of quilt squares. It is very quiet and smooth, but HEAVY doesn't even begin to describe the machine. I have to call in a man to get it moved from Point A to Point B. It is in a rounded wood carrying case, but the handle is still intact. I get worried though, every time someone picks it up, because of the weight of machine inside of it. It has a veneer finish on the outside of the cabinet, so that makes me think it is real wood, rather than make-believe type wood of so many of today's wood products.
I just acquired this exact machine. No manual. Can you help me with threading? What type of needle and how to seat the needle (position)? And what type of bobbin? I’m super stupid about antique machines, but this one called my name…
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