Cleaning and repairing the Shellac clear coat on Vintage sewing machine heads
10-02-2020, 06:15 AM
#701
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609
Just wipe down the machine with a rag. The sewing machine oil does not have to be removed. Linseed oil is better than sewing machine oil. I use several layers for the pad but i just dip my rag in the shellac with a drop of linseed oil on top. I have been known to cover my finger with a couple of layers of rag(t-shirt) and dip into the shellac and oil. You can do as yutube said, what ever is comfortable for you to polish.
Glenn
Glenn
05-29-2021, 02:28 PM
#704
Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1
Hello, I'm a VSM newbie here! I have a few questions before embarking on my first sewing machine refinishing. Pictures in a link below. Appreciate any comments/feedback/help you're willing to offer. Thanks, everyone!
I recently acquired a Singer 66 in a treadle cabinet, and hope to restore and sew with it. I'm so glad I stumbled upon Glenn's posts about how to clean and refinish the sewing machine head because I accidentally took some gold off the decals and have been freaking out ever since. Here are some pictures of my new baby:
https://www.quiltingboard.com/member...bums20452.html (Hope the link works, haven't figured out how to upload photos in a post yet...)
I've read and re-read the posts to make sure I've got all the details. I'm collecting supplies right now, and will practice in an inconspicuous part of the machine before doing the whole thing. I have a few more questions, hope they're not too silly to ask.
1. There are a few chips along the edge of the bed that I hope to touch up. Do you think it would be odd to just touch it up with some black paint (the anilene dye alcohol-soluable powder mixture)? Or should I consider filling in the bumpy edge with an auto body filler putty, then paint and finish?
2. Will the step to wipe over the decals with alcohol + linseed oil remove the gold in the decals as it seems alcohol tends to remove the gold layer? Is there an alternative way to wipe over it prior to sealing with shellac?
3. The decals are in relatively good condition, but I would like to touch up the portions where it turned silver due to my mistake. I saw Testor's gold paint pen being recommended. After some googling, I have found one that is enamel-based, and was wondering if it's okay to have enamel being sandwiched between the japanning and shellac layers?
I recently acquired a Singer 66 in a treadle cabinet, and hope to restore and sew with it. I'm so glad I stumbled upon Glenn's posts about how to clean and refinish the sewing machine head because I accidentally took some gold off the decals and have been freaking out ever since. Here are some pictures of my new baby:
https://www.quiltingboard.com/member...bums20452.html (Hope the link works, haven't figured out how to upload photos in a post yet...)
I've read and re-read the posts to make sure I've got all the details. I'm collecting supplies right now, and will practice in an inconspicuous part of the machine before doing the whole thing. I have a few more questions, hope they're not too silly to ask.
1. There are a few chips along the edge of the bed that I hope to touch up. Do you think it would be odd to just touch it up with some black paint (the anilene dye alcohol-soluable powder mixture)? Or should I consider filling in the bumpy edge with an auto body filler putty, then paint and finish?
2. Will the step to wipe over the decals with alcohol + linseed oil remove the gold in the decals as it seems alcohol tends to remove the gold layer? Is there an alternative way to wipe over it prior to sealing with shellac?
3. The decals are in relatively good condition, but I would like to touch up the portions where it turned silver due to my mistake. I saw Testor's gold paint pen being recommended. After some googling, I have found one that is enamel-based, and was wondering if it's okay to have enamel being sandwiched between the japanning and shellac layers?
05-29-2021, 07:24 PM
#705
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Western Washington State
Posts: 548
You ask excellent, educated questions! Yes, be careful with anything that may touch decals. I have found high end nail polish enamel to be an acceptable paint chip fill and color match. Be sure to just fill the loss and let dry. Several layers may be needed.
05-30-2021, 06:03 AM
#706
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
I used some Testor's model paint to fill in a scratch and some chips for my sister's machine. Another recommendation is Dupli-Color DE1635 Semi-Gloss. It can be sprayed into the lid or plastic cup and applied with a brush.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
03-06-2022, 04:06 PM
#707
Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: NW Washington
Posts: 18
Glenn- Skipper-
I read all 71 pages and have some questions. My 1947 Singer 15-91-- has what I'd say are some pretty fine decals and a bit of life's nicks but the black areas on the bed have some serious pitting. It also has what looks like peeling skin after a bad sunburn on the inside area of the pillar. It was like this when I got it years ago. This machine is clean and rewired and well maintained- I really love this machine as we've been partners a long time! Attached are a few photos of the worst areas.
Questions: 1. will your method work to fill these holes- assume I would concentrate there initially and then move on to the entire bed and pillar
2. is this technique temperature sensitive. I'm in NW Washington where now the temperature is in the 40s and our farm shop isn't much over 60 this time of year even with the waste oil heater going! And it rains a lot.
The next thing. I have a 1954 Singer 1200 which some doofas painted the bed with unknown black paint after spraying with a gray primer- only bed was painted. Appears to be a very thin coat of paint. This paint scratches easily with the fingernail and mars very easily as it has a slight tack feeling even after more than a year since acquiring it. I'd like to take the paint/primer all the way off on the bed only . It is obvious they masked the machine off at the base of the pillar as you can see the color is slightly different and there is the telltale edge of the masking tape line. Tiny bit of over-spray on oil caps on the gears underneath. Would the aniline dye method work on a complete bed redo? Or what to paint it with initially? Then proceed with the French polish after paint has cured? The convenient thing is there are no decals on the 1200 bed area!
I read all 71 pages and have some questions. My 1947 Singer 15-91-- has what I'd say are some pretty fine decals and a bit of life's nicks but the black areas on the bed have some serious pitting. It also has what looks like peeling skin after a bad sunburn on the inside area of the pillar. It was like this when I got it years ago. This machine is clean and rewired and well maintained- I really love this machine as we've been partners a long time! Attached are a few photos of the worst areas.
Questions: 1. will your method work to fill these holes- assume I would concentrate there initially and then move on to the entire bed and pillar
2. is this technique temperature sensitive. I'm in NW Washington where now the temperature is in the 40s and our farm shop isn't much over 60 this time of year even with the waste oil heater going! And it rains a lot.
The next thing. I have a 1954 Singer 1200 which some doofas painted the bed with unknown black paint after spraying with a gray primer- only bed was painted. Appears to be a very thin coat of paint. This paint scratches easily with the fingernail and mars very easily as it has a slight tack feeling even after more than a year since acquiring it. I'd like to take the paint/primer all the way off on the bed only . It is obvious they masked the machine off at the base of the pillar as you can see the color is slightly different and there is the telltale edge of the masking tape line. Tiny bit of over-spray on oil caps on the gears underneath. Would the aniline dye method work on a complete bed redo? Or what to paint it with initially? Then proceed with the French polish after paint has cured? The convenient thing is there are no decals on the 1200 bed area!
Last edited by Annie from Edison; 03-06-2022 at 04:14 PM. Reason: no photos
03-08-2022, 07:53 AM
#708
Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 6
detail paint touch ups
Originally Posted by Glenn
After the black finish was to my likeing I took gold paint and repaired the lettering using tape and and an artist fine brush. I am not an artist so bear with me here. After the paint was dry I applied a thin coat of shellac over the decal to protect it using the french polish method. At this point let cure for about a week and wax if desired but it is not needed at this point if you applied a clear coat of shellac over the entire machine. Ok now lets show you the end results of this cleaning of the very nasty machine. To shine the metal parts I used Brasso and a dremel with a cloth buffing pad. Then put it all back together ecept the motor that I will not use. Thanks to Charlee I have a bobbin slide plate to this badged White. Thank you Fiesty. Now ask all the questions you want.
Skipper
Skipper
Thanks
03-08-2022, 08:15 AM
#709
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
Originally Posted by inchhirn
Hi Glenn what kind of gold paint do you use and where do you get it from?
Thanks
Thanks
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
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