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    Old 08-04-2013, 06:38 PM
      #11  
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    Originally Posted by loosethread
    It also helps if you cut the border fabric on the length of the fabric. Cross-wise it stretches some, length-wise it is more stable. I know it uses much more fabric, but it works.
    I agree ! Until I started using length wise grain my borders always stretched. It really makes a difference.
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    Old 08-04-2013, 06:44 PM
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    I don't necessarily agree that you should always put the border on top (with the rest of the quilt against the feed dogs) - I think it depends upon what you're sewing the border to. If I'm sewing a border to bias cut edges, the border is what goes on the bottom. Really you want the least-stretchy fabric to be against the feed dogs.

    I do agree that borders cut the long way stretch less. And starch never hurts. ;-)
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    Old 08-04-2013, 06:45 PM
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    Originally Posted by loosethread
    It also helps if you cut the border fabric on the length of the fabric. Cross-wise it stretches some, length-wise it is more stable. I know it uses much more fabric, but it works.
    I've read that too. And I can say with 100% certainty that I have never had enough border fabric to do it that way. Usually my border width is based on how much fabric I have and it's usually a yard or less.
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    Old 08-04-2013, 06:53 PM
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    I cut my border the length of my side, find the center of the top and border and use glue starting at the middle and glue both ways. Works like a charm!
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    Old 08-04-2013, 07:00 PM
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    Also, make sure you aren't stretching the fabric by the way you hold it. I always try to keep my hands in front of the needle. I seem to get into trouble when I allow my hands to pass, I seem to be pulling instead of guiding! Pay attention next time and make sure you are not doing a "Jane"!! LOL
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    Old 08-04-2013, 08:46 PM
      #16  
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    Originally Posted by Sewnoma
    I don't necessarily agree that you should always put the border on top (with the rest of the quilt against the feed dogs) - I think it depends upon what you're sewing the border to. If I'm sewing a border to bias cut edges, the border is what goes on the bottom. Really you want the least-stretchy fabric to be against the feed dogs.

    I do agree that borders cut the long way stretch less. And starch never hurts. ;-)
    Actually you should always sew with bias on the bottom. The feed dogs don't stretch the bias edges. "Bag the bottom" and "bias on the bottom" are two very old sewing sayings.
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    Old 08-04-2013, 09:30 PM
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    Measure and make sure that your blocks are all the same size. Cut your sashing the same length of the blocks and use pins to match them up. You know that the sash is straight and true so if the block has bias edges or is a little stretchy from the seams, put it on the bottom so the extra can be eased in by the feed dogs. When sewing the long crosswise sashing to the row of blocks, I mark the block and sash measurement all along the crosswise sash and pin at the marks in the seam allowances.
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    Old 08-05-2013, 06:55 AM
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    How wavy is wavy? If it's not too bad it will be taken up by the quilting and will never show in the finished product. Could you post a photo, it might help us help you decide whether it's bad enough that you need to rip it out.

    Laura Nownes has some helpful advice on her blog:

    http://seehowwesew.wordpress.com/201...-wavy-borders/
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    Old 08-06-2013, 05:15 AM
      #19  
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    Default border instructions

    Originally Posted by Peckish
    THANK YOU!! Excellent article. I've learned the hard way. Square it. Block if necessary. And follow the instructions!
    The rest falls into place. Thank you again, Peckish!
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    Old 08-06-2013, 06:55 AM
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    I always put the side with the most seams on top when attaching sashing or borders. Works out well for me. A good steaming will ease any minor ripples that might occur. Same principle as doing a set in sleeve and that's a lot greater concentration of fabric to smooth out than doing sashing or a border.
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