Need helpo with Tipped Bricks Border
01-04-2015, 11:00 PM
#11
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Missouri
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You could make the end of each unit using a triangle that had the straight grain on the long side. I've done it the way this picture suggests and having the biase edge after trimming isn't easy to handle.
01-06-2015, 06:55 AM
#13
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
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I think I would make them with the triangle this way. The triangle needs to be bigger than you think. Make a sample brick-set the way they say, then take off the white piece and study the shape of it. It sticks out a ways, as there is a short corner that would be snipped off.
Last edited by maviskw; 01-06-2015 at 07:01 AM.
01-06-2015, 07:04 AM
#14
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Southern California
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Yes, this is very similar to seminole piecing. I know that Eleanor Burns has done some so you might find a video on her site QIAD. You have to be a very precise piecer in order for the borders not to have any waves in it.
01-06-2015, 07:57 PM
#15
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Location: Central Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA
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Am trying to make this border but am not sure what offset I should use? Any help will be appreciated.
http://www.quilterscache.com/T/TippedBricksBorder.html
http://www.quilterscache.com/T/TippedBricksBorder.html
01-06-2015, 07:59 PM
#16
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Location: Central Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA
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Looks like it's a 45 degree tilt. You could also do a 30 degree tilt; both are on most 6" x 24" rulers and some 6" x 12" rulers.
When you have cut the borders, you will have bias edges on them.
Here's a little trick to help stabilize those biases. The graphic is not drawn exactly for your situation, but the idea still applies.
Jan in VA
When you have cut the borders, you will have bias edges on them.
Here's a little trick to help stabilize those biases. The graphic is not drawn exactly for your situation, but the idea still applies.
Jan in VA
01-06-2015, 08:41 PM
#17
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Location: Central Wisconsin
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An example for you...if you use a white 2.5" x 2.5" square, then a red 2.5" x 4.5" rectangle, then another white 2.5" x 2.5" square sewed together in a strip, it would be the first set in your border. Make another, sew them together matching the seam between the first white and the red, to sew to the white first square of the second set, the seams will end up offset. Clear as mud?
EXAMPLE: a 6 1/2" x 3 1/2" rectangle with 3 1/2" x 4 1/2" ends will give you an approx 6 1/4" border
The end pieces are not square with this pattern. I think I would make one exactly like their measurements before I went off on my own with other measurements.
01-06-2015, 09:12 PM
#18
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Central Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA
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Then sew them together staggered, with the background fabric extending 1/4" beyond the tips of the bricks, and using a rotary cutter and ruler, slice off any extra beyond that 1/4" seam allowance. EXAMPLE: a 4 1/2" x 2 1/2" rectangle with 2 1/2" x 3 1/2" ends will give you an approx 4 1/4" wide border
EXAMPLE: a 6 1/2" x 3 1/2" rectangle with 3 1/2" x 4 1/2" ends will give you an approx 6 1/4" border
The end pieces are not square with this pattern. I think I would make one exactly like their measurements before I went off on my own with other measurements.
EXAMPLE: a 6 1/2" x 3 1/2" rectangle with 3 1/2" x 4 1/2" ends will give you an approx 6 1/4" border
The end pieces are not square with this pattern. I think I would make one exactly like their measurements before I went off on my own with other measurements.
01-07-2015, 08:50 AM
#19
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Dover DE
Posts: 4,250
I've been reading this post - love the look of these borders. Just thinking about Jan's twill tape idea, in addition to beaucoups starch, I would also consider using a 1 inch piece of lightweight fusible interfacing to stabilize the edge to avoid the bias ripple effect. My quilts are known (to me) as big ripplers, so you've got me thinking about what to do about it!!
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