Darning/Embroidery on Vintage Singers
10-02-2014, 05:03 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by manicmike
Looks like the work isn't tight enough in the hoop. I think this would cause the fabric to ride with the needle and loop at the bottom.
Cari
10-03-2014, 04:09 AM
#34
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Thanks Everyone. I’m going to give it another go or two to see if I can improve.
One of the reasons that I wanted to use the 27K2 machine for my darning was because it has no automatic tension release and won’t matter if the empty presser foot bar is up or down. I could see that being handy in getting the hoop in and out under the needle and doing the darning, while simply leaving the presser bar up all of the time for the entire operation. The 66-14 does have an automatic tension release, so I’ve got to remember to lower the presser bar after sliding the hoop under it. I can’t tell from my photos if I had the presser bar down or not, but if it was up, that could explain my stitches.
The problem with using a hoop is that I can’t see what has happened under the fabric until I interrupt my sewing, cut the threads, and tip the hoop up on one side. And the smaller plastic hoop sides are thick enough to not allow the hoop to slide (hoop standing on edge) between the raised needle and the feed cover plate. That’s why the metal hoop works better. The thinner sides make the difference getting it under, but the hoop “grip” is provided by a spring instead of a thumbscrew, so it may not hold the fabric quite as tight. I could have loose fabric.
The only way that I know of to check my thread tensions to make sure they’re balanced is to re-assemble the original presser foot and needle clamp to do a normal sewing test-sew. They were balanced before I put the darning gadgets on, so the gadgets, thread, fabric, or the way that I’m doing things are probably more likely to be the problem I would think.
This is kind of fun trying to figure things out!
CD in Oklahoma
One of the reasons that I wanted to use the 27K2 machine for my darning was because it has no automatic tension release and won’t matter if the empty presser foot bar is up or down. I could see that being handy in getting the hoop in and out under the needle and doing the darning, while simply leaving the presser bar up all of the time for the entire operation. The 66-14 does have an automatic tension release, so I’ve got to remember to lower the presser bar after sliding the hoop under it. I can’t tell from my photos if I had the presser bar down or not, but if it was up, that could explain my stitches.
The problem with using a hoop is that I can’t see what has happened under the fabric until I interrupt my sewing, cut the threads, and tip the hoop up on one side. And the smaller plastic hoop sides are thick enough to not allow the hoop to slide (hoop standing on edge) between the raised needle and the feed cover plate. That’s why the metal hoop works better. The thinner sides make the difference getting it under, but the hoop “grip” is provided by a spring instead of a thumbscrew, so it may not hold the fabric quite as tight. I could have loose fabric.
The only way that I know of to check my thread tensions to make sure they’re balanced is to re-assemble the original presser foot and needle clamp to do a normal sewing test-sew. They were balanced before I put the darning gadgets on, so the gadgets, thread, fabric, or the way that I’m doing things are probably more likely to be the problem I would think.
This is kind of fun trying to figure things out!
CD in Oklahoma
10-03-2014, 05:33 AM
#35
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 8,143
I'd say your number 1 problem is your fabric is too loose.
I don't think you left your foot "up" as usually that makes much larger loops, and you'll end up with busted thread within a few stitches. Your loops are small enough that some thread is being pulled back up out of the bobbin area - just not enough.
I also think your frame is not going to work, with that spring type clasp, there is no way you will get it tight enough. My instruction book says to take a wooden hoop and wrap the inner frame with muslin so that you'll get a very, very snug fit. You should need to use quite a bit of pressure to get the inner hoop down into the outer hoop, and you do not want to be pulling the fabric tight after you have the hoop in place. If you can actually do that, then you didn't get it tight enough to begin with.
I tried to find the free download of the book I have, and the site seems to be disabled now. I thought I had saved a copy to my harddrive, but I'm not finding it. Since I collect old books, I bought the book too.
I don't think you left your foot "up" as usually that makes much larger loops, and you'll end up with busted thread within a few stitches. Your loops are small enough that some thread is being pulled back up out of the bobbin area - just not enough.
I also think your frame is not going to work, with that spring type clasp, there is no way you will get it tight enough. My instruction book says to take a wooden hoop and wrap the inner frame with muslin so that you'll get a very, very snug fit. You should need to use quite a bit of pressure to get the inner hoop down into the outer hoop, and you do not want to be pulling the fabric tight after you have the hoop in place. If you can actually do that, then you didn't get it tight enough to begin with.
I tried to find the free download of the book I have, and the site seems to be disabled now. I thought I had saved a copy to my harddrive, but I'm not finding it. Since I collect old books, I bought the book too.
10-03-2014, 06:13 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by Macybaby
I'd say your number 1 problem is your fabric is too loose.
I’m curious though.....when I hear and see the action with just a hoop, and a large one at that, and just the needle with no foot of any kind, how can the fabric be so tight in that application when there’s absolutely nothing to help hold the fabric down? Isn’t the contact between my needle spring thingy and the feed cover plate supposed to hold the fabric in place for the stitch to be made? It seems like the action should be similar to a normal presser foot on a normal needle plate, but without the feed action, even on loose fabric....
Otherwise, what good does the spring foot do?
CD in Oklahoma
10-03-2014, 07:40 AM
#37
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when I've seen this done, the fingers are very close to the needle, so in effect, they are what is holding the fabric down. you don't move the hoop, you move the fabric and the hoop goes with it. Just like FMQ - you get your fingers right up near the needle.
Most of the instructions I have - they don't recomend the springy thing - they use nothing at all. Figures are what keeps the fabric "down" like the hopping foot does.
Most of the instructions I have - they don't recomend the springy thing - they use nothing at all. Figures are what keeps the fabric "down" like the hopping foot does.
10-03-2014, 08:07 AM
#38
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Here are some of the pages in the book - if you can't read them, PM me your email and I'll scan and send them to you.
This is the part where it explains how to place your hands - note - "the index finger of the left hand . . . does the work of the presser foot" so you do need to have one finger right up near the needle holding the fabric down on the bed of the machine. While your "spring thingy" sort of does this, it does not do it well enough -there is a reason why that style isn't still in use. And I do think it was designed for use with a very small hoop, (like the stock and embroidery hoop sold by Singer) If you don't want your finger there - then get a newer hopping foot as it will do the job that the finger does - simply holding the fabric down the entire time the needle is in contact with the fabric.
This is the part where it explains how to place your hands - note - "the index finger of the left hand . . . does the work of the presser foot" so you do need to have one finger right up near the needle holding the fabric down on the bed of the machine. While your "spring thingy" sort of does this, it does not do it well enough -there is a reason why that style isn't still in use. And I do think it was designed for use with a very small hoop, (like the stock and embroidery hoop sold by Singer) If you don't want your finger there - then get a newer hopping foot as it will do the job that the finger does - simply holding the fabric down the entire time the needle is in contact with the fabric.
10-03-2014, 08:42 AM
#39
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I was able to read most of it by increasing the zoom level of my browser. Thanks for posting those page photos. This pupil just needs more practice I think.
And the part about using the index finger of the LEFT hand is good advice. I doinked my right index finger with the thumbscrew while I was playing yesterday, and nearly threw my shoulder out of joint extracting my hand from the hoop....
It really messed up the gentle rhythm of my treadling too.
I don’t know if I’ll get time to fiddle with it again this afternoon. I have some chores that I need to do.
CD in Oklahoma
And the part about using the index finger of the LEFT hand is good advice. I doinked my right index finger with the thumbscrew while I was playing yesterday, and nearly threw my shoulder out of joint extracting my hand from the hoop....
It really messed up the gentle rhythm of my treadling too.
I don’t know if I’ll get time to fiddle with it again this afternoon. I have some chores that I need to do.
CD in Oklahoma
10-03-2014, 09:36 AM
#40
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I have the reprint by Robbie Fanning of the 1911 book Macybaby is showing you. There was a lot more cutwork in it than I had expected. I think pg. 61 of the shading of a rose is close to what you want to accomplish. There is a small list of books devoted to Thread painting listed on Sewing Pattern Review http://sewing.patternreview.com/Sewi...ns/topic/68253 If for no other reason than to see the vintage sewing machine on the cover, take a look at Beginner's Guide Machine Embroidery by DMC at Amazon. I picked up my copy at a thrift store. It is more leaflet than book. "Thread Work Unraveled" by Sarah Ann Smith, 2009, is another one you might enjoy, just for the info on tensions and threads.
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