Wedding Ring Chat Class
#32
Patrice, Thank you so very much for this lesson. You put so much work into it - it is the best I have ever seen. You explain it so well and the pics add the finishing touch :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: I just came across this so obviously did not make the first class. I will be there for the next one on Sunday. Am going to try and put at least one ring together tomorrow. This is just the greatest :!: :!: :!:
#33
Here we go!!! Today, we're going to add those melons to the center.
There are two ways to make the center. the first way is to cut and mark four pieces using the pattern as you printed it. that's the easiest way, but you'll have seams in the center. eeeeeeeeeuuuuuuuuuwwwwww!!!!!
instead, we're going to take one of the "corner" pattern pieces and use it to make a solid center. after you've glued the pattern piece to your manila folder, cut it out. then, using your ruler and rotary cutter, carefully trim away the seam allowances from the square sides.
to make the center, fold your background piece into quarters. very carefully line up the straight sides of the pattern piece with the FOLDS, then trace it with a marking pencil.
carefully cut it out while it's still folded. use very sharp scissors or - if you are very brave - your rotary cutter.
it will look like this
There are two ways to make the center. the first way is to cut and mark four pieces using the pattern as you printed it. that's the easiest way, but you'll have seams in the center. eeeeeeeeeuuuuuuuuuwwwwww!!!!!
instead, we're going to take one of the "corner" pattern pieces and use it to make a solid center. after you've glued the pattern piece to your manila folder, cut it out. then, using your ruler and rotary cutter, carefully trim away the seam allowances from the square sides.
to make the center, fold your background piece into quarters. very carefully line up the straight sides of the pattern piece with the FOLDS, then trace it with a marking pencil.
carefully cut it out while it's still folded. use very sharp scissors or - if you are very brave - your rotary cutter.
it will look like this
#34
when you open up your center, it will look like this.
don't press it flat just yet. instead, use the folds to show you where to make your reference marks. make the marks on the back, please.
use the original folds to mark the little hands and legs.
fold it in quarters the other way to get your references for the curves.
(sorry. my fabric is the same on both sides. :lol: )
don't press it flat just yet. instead, use the folds to show you where to make your reference marks. make the marks on the back, please.
use the original folds to mark the little hands and legs.
fold it in quarters the other way to get your references for the curves.
(sorry. my fabric is the same on both sides. :lol: )
#36
we are now ready to attach a melon to the center. when you lay them next to each other, things won't looks as though they're going to fit.
however, you will eventually see that they do fit. no kidding. :P
however, you will eventually see that they do fit. no kidding. :P
#37
there are a number of ways to attach the melons. one way is to use the same method we did when attaching the arcs to the melons. that is to pin at the center and ends, then pin the heck out of it in between.
in the photos below, i started in the center, then pinned outward toward each end. it's only partically pinned in the photo but ... if you proceed carefully, you'll find that the two pieces go together more easily than you expect and things line up at the ends.
in the photos below, i started in the center, then pinned outward toward each end. it's only partically pinned in the photo but ... if you proceed carefully, you'll find that the two pieces go together more easily than you expect and things line up at the ends.
#38
another way is to pin or baste the ends, then proceed slowly around the arc, lining it up as you go. you might need to stop every inch or so, lift the foot and re-align things.
you will need to stretch it juuuusssst a leeeeeetle bit to match up the top of the arch with the inner curve of the center.
when i used this method, i added a pin to the center when i was about two inches away. just to reassure myself. in the end, i found it wasn't totally necessary.
you will need to stretch it juuuusssst a leeeeeetle bit to match up the top of the arch with the inner curve of the center.
when i used this method, i added a pin to the center when i was about two inches away. just to reassure myself. in the end, i found it wasn't totally necessary.
#39
i just wanted to add a few closeup photos of the sewing. hopefully, they'll clear up any confusion there may be about the whole "sewing without pins" thing.
notice, please, that i was very careful to not sew wider than 1/4" at the ends. that keeps the arcs from overlapping at the intersections.
notice, please, that i was very careful to not sew wider than 1/4" at the ends. that keeps the arcs from overlapping at the intersections.
#40
at the ends is where the little reference marks are the most helpful.
now ... i pinned and/or basted my ends, then sewed verrrrrrry slowly, so all my ends matched. i'm proud of that, naturally. BUT i suspect it wouldn't be the end of the world if the hands and feet accidentally got stretched a bit too much and dangled a tad off the ends of the arcs. if that happens, just make sure to trim away the excess, then use it as your new "end" when you add the next arc.
ok ... if it's more than 1/4" off ... play it safe and rippit so you can try again.
now ... i pinned and/or basted my ends, then sewed verrrrrrry slowly, so all my ends matched. i'm proud of that, naturally. BUT i suspect it wouldn't be the end of the world if the hands and feet accidentally got stretched a bit too much and dangled a tad off the ends of the arcs. if that happens, just make sure to trim away the excess, then use it as your new "end" when you add the next arc.
ok ... if it's more than 1/4" off ... play it safe and rippit so you can try again.
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