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Cleaning and repairing the Shellac clear coat on Vintage sewing machine heads

Cleaning and repairing the Shellac clear coat on Vintage sewing machine heads

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Old 06-18-2015, 05:56 PM
  #481  
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Well Steve I think you are the first. I have never used the solution on plastic. Learning something new is always good. What made you try this?
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Old 06-19-2015, 07:40 AM
  #482  
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I tried Armor-all and it just did not do anything other than remove dirt. the plastic looked dried out still. I remembered that your solution had oil and cleaners so I decided to try it on a small part (seat hinge cover) and it was amazing. I have since done all of the plastic on the 65 Vair and it is SO much better. I am going to try it tonight on the old seat belts... The folks on the corvair site were very interested, so I shared the formula (as per your previous OK) THANK YOU
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Old 06-19-2015, 11:40 AM
  #483  
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You are most welcome and I am restoring a 49 Chrysler Windsor coupe and will try it out.
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Old 06-19-2015, 03:51 PM
  #484  
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Originally Posted by Glenn View Post
...I am restoring a 49 Chrysler Windsor coupe and will try it out.
Just curious. Is that pronounced "coop" or "coopay".....?

CD in Oklahoma
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Old 06-19-2015, 04:15 PM
  #485  
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coopay meaning it is short for costing me a lot to restore this thing.
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Old 06-20-2015, 03:29 PM
  #486  
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Originally Posted by Glenn View Post
You are most welcome and I am restoring a 49 Chrysler Windsor coupe and will try it out.
I think I will try it on some 300 headlights. Thanks Steve for the idea.
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Old 06-23-2015, 01:41 PM
  #487  
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Hi Glenn -- wondering if the evaporust is safe for the hand wheel to sit in? I didn't know if it would mess with the japanning at all? Thanks!
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Old 06-23-2015, 02:14 PM
  #488  
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The evaporust will damage the japanning on the Hand Wheel. It will soften it. What I do is set the HW on the edge in evaporust and rotate it every thirty minutes until the rust is gone. I put enough evaporust just to cover the chrome part and then start the rotation.
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:42 AM
  #489  
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I'm new here, and I'm so glad to have found this tutorial! I'm trying to restore my husband's Grandmother's 1923 Singer 66 treadle head. I've soaked it with Mr. Wrench penetrating oil and wiped it off which helped a lot. I've soaked rusty parts in lamp oil because that was the closest thing to kerosene I could find. Then I was told about the Evaporust. I'll be looking for that and the other things in your tutorial. Do you like PB over Mr. Wrench? Should I get some of that or stay the course with Mr. Wrench? This machine is chipping paint. Do I try to get the chipped paint off somehow? Before I was pointed toward this tutorial, I thought of using Krud Kutter from Home Depot that is supposed to turn rusted metal to black after chemically reacting with the rust. I was a little afraid of it, and now I'm glad I waited. Here are before and then after I sprayed this old girl with Mr. Wrench. I think I'll name her Shorty after my husband's Grandmother. Do you think these decals will come out to play once I use your method?


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Attached Thumbnails 20150618-img_0604.jpg   20150618-img_0612-3.jpg   20150618-img_0606.jpg  
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:50 AM
  #490  
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I can't seem to get the other picture to load, but maybe you can see the cracking paint underneath the red eye near the take up lever for the presser foot. Thanks for any help you can give. This tutorial saved Shorty from Krud Kutter damage

Trying one last time to show the decals and pitting on the back...
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Attached Thumbnails 20150618-img_0611.jpg   20150619-img_0615-2.jpg  
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