Needing Help Finding A Quilt Pattern
10-23-2019, 04:34 AM
#11
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Happy to do it! As I say, my favorite parts of quilting are the three P's: Planning, Playing (with fabric), and Piecing
Drafting out stuff is on my fun list
Let me know if you need any additional help -- I'm thinking I have a selection of Cherry fabrics that this might work well for but I'll be making it as a smaller rectangular size.
Drafting out stuff is on my fun list
Let me know if you need any additional help -- I'm thinking I have a selection of Cherry fabrics that this might work well for but I'll be making it as a smaller rectangular size.
10-23-2019, 04:44 AM
#12
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Just a grateful note to all who answered my post, I so appreciate all of your help and time in answering offering suggestions! Great group of people on this board always willing to give of your time and advice! Thank-you to each and every one of you!
10-23-2019, 04:49 AM
#13
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When I see a pattern I like I try to copy it using EQ8. Seems its flying geese and HST mostly, just have to figure out the block sizes mostly. Don't know if this imfringement on the copywrite laws but if I make it a different size or change something so its not exactly like it I wouldn't think it would be. I know we have to be sure about things like that.
10-23-2019, 04:53 AM
#14
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An additional note on doing it with whole alternate squares and flying geese blocks and setting on the diagonal, if you use the same units as I showed/measured out, the border will still work the same mathematically. Or, you could complicate things and make Quarter-Square blocks for the alternate blocks, either of my ways is easier.
Keep in mind when cutting the setting triangles that you can't just slice the 12.5 raw block in half, it will be too short! For the setting triangles easiest thing is to make them 1" larger than the block size and either trim down to the seam allowance or allow the design to float.
Edit: I am always concerned about copyright. A block image is not copyrightable. You can take credit for a technique or whatever, but a log cabin block or whatever block is open to all. Drawing out a block like this is fair use -- especially for a "free" pattern but even if not. As I'm mentioning in my post there are various ways to construct this project. If I were to sell this as my own design, there would be issues, or if I took credit, or if I plagiarized their directions. I think the original designer did a nice job with some of the subtle things like I mentioned balancing the dark geese backgrounds with the large dark triangles. They deserve full credit for inspiration.
Keep in mind when cutting the setting triangles that you can't just slice the 12.5 raw block in half, it will be too short! For the setting triangles easiest thing is to make them 1" larger than the block size and either trim down to the seam allowance or allow the design to float.
Edit: I am always concerned about copyright. A block image is not copyrightable. You can take credit for a technique or whatever, but a log cabin block or whatever block is open to all. Drawing out a block like this is fair use -- especially for a "free" pattern but even if not. As I'm mentioning in my post there are various ways to construct this project. If I were to sell this as my own design, there would be issues, or if I took credit, or if I plagiarized their directions. I think the original designer did a nice job with some of the subtle things like I mentioned balancing the dark geese backgrounds with the large dark triangles. They deserve full credit for inspiration.
Last edited by Iceblossom; 10-23-2019 at 04:58 AM.
10-23-2019, 05:18 AM
#15
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10-23-2019, 05:38 AM
#16
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More clarifications too late to edit.
For the setting triangles, I would cut blocks that were 13.5" and slice along the diagonal. That will leave the outer edge as bias but you will soon be stabilizing it with the border sashing. You can also cut the setting triangles so the long edge is straight of grain, but I'd do it my way
If I entered it in a show with similar fabrics, I would list it as "Inspired by Botanical Oasis designed by Anne Rowan".
I had some fabrics pulled out as a potential project, I think this idea will work for them but it will be a very different looking quilt. I have the fabric in the wash as we speak... My inner unit will be based on a 2x4" flying geese unit so instead of drawn out with a 12" center I will have an 8" center, my color choices and placement will be much more graphic, and I will probably be using squares and a diagonal set instead of the triangle technique. Additionally, I would make the top as a rectangle and not a square as designed. It will be for donation, but if I showed it, I would say "Based on Botanical Oasis designed by Anne Rowan" and maybe even break it down slightly further as "Block Based On..."
For the setting triangles, I would cut blocks that were 13.5" and slice along the diagonal. That will leave the outer edge as bias but you will soon be stabilizing it with the border sashing. You can also cut the setting triangles so the long edge is straight of grain, but I'd do it my way
If I entered it in a show with similar fabrics, I would list it as "Inspired by Botanical Oasis designed by Anne Rowan".
I had some fabrics pulled out as a potential project, I think this idea will work for them but it will be a very different looking quilt. I have the fabric in the wash as we speak... My inner unit will be based on a 2x4" flying geese unit so instead of drawn out with a 12" center I will have an 8" center, my color choices and placement will be much more graphic, and I will probably be using squares and a diagonal set instead of the triangle technique. Additionally, I would make the top as a rectangle and not a square as designed. It will be for donation, but if I showed it, I would say "Based on Botanical Oasis designed by Anne Rowan" and maybe even break it down slightly further as "Block Based On..."
Last edited by Iceblossom; 10-23-2019 at 05:41 AM.
10-23-2019, 06:56 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by Iceblossom
More clarifications too late to edit.
For the setting triangles, I would cut blocks that were 13.5" and slice along the diagonal. That will leave the outer edge as bias but you will soon be stabilizing it with the border sashing. You can also cut the setting triangles so the long edge is straight of grain, but I'd do it my way
For the setting triangles, I would cut blocks that were 13.5" and slice along the diagonal. That will leave the outer edge as bias but you will soon be stabilizing it with the border sashing. You can also cut the setting triangles so the long edge is straight of grain, but I'd do it my way
Draw a diagonal line across the square (for the setting triangle). Stitch 1/4 inch on each side and then cut on the drawn line. This would stay stitch that bias edge.
Those are pretty patterns.
10-23-2019, 07:33 AM
#18
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One more edit first: The discussion for setting triangles only happens if you are setting diagonally and with whole alternate squares. If you do the block as designed with the triangles as part of the block, you don't have to read any further! It is a straight horizontal setting and is the easiest way. The fabric I want to use is rather large and I think would work better as a whole alternate square.
Sure, Rhonda, stay stitching is one technique and there are many ways to deal with bias edges. If you use unwashed fabric or starch, that's usually enough to stabilize it but these are rather large lengths. I'd do ok with my crisp ironing (no starch) and letting the machine do the work but some people might warp it a bit just due to the length.
If I wanted the edges straight of grain, I'd cut out that 13.5" block -- I use parchment paper for stuff like this (what you see in the picture), clear tape is better but I have the blue tape handy in my sewing kit. I get the paper at the dollar store for a 1 foot x 25 x roll and use it for many quilting related things!
Anyway, make a 13.5" square (or maybe you have a large enough ruler, I have one but I don't think most quilters do) out of paper taped together and slice it in half along the diagonal. I could look up the math of this, but most of the time I just use paper. That triangle is now your cutting guide, you'd cut a strip the height of that cut piece, and placing the long edge of the triangle on the straight of grain, I think you'd get a total of 5 pieces, 3 on the start (bottom or top) and the 2 in the middle, plus left over trims.
There are sites/calculations on how big a square to cut into an X too -- but these are big and I don't think would cut well without leaving lots of scraps/extra yardage.
If you have a large enough ruler (I have a 16" square) you can mark the 13.5" line with tape, like I did here for this project where I needed a 7.5" cut and the closest ruler was 8.5". I always use the top of the tape as my line, sometimes I need to put in an extra mark on which way is the correct way!
Sure, Rhonda, stay stitching is one technique and there are many ways to deal with bias edges. If you use unwashed fabric or starch, that's usually enough to stabilize it but these are rather large lengths. I'd do ok with my crisp ironing (no starch) and letting the machine do the work but some people might warp it a bit just due to the length.
If I wanted the edges straight of grain, I'd cut out that 13.5" block -- I use parchment paper for stuff like this (what you see in the picture), clear tape is better but I have the blue tape handy in my sewing kit. I get the paper at the dollar store for a 1 foot x 25 x roll and use it for many quilting related things!
Anyway, make a 13.5" square (or maybe you have a large enough ruler, I have one but I don't think most quilters do) out of paper taped together and slice it in half along the diagonal. I could look up the math of this, but most of the time I just use paper. That triangle is now your cutting guide, you'd cut a strip the height of that cut piece, and placing the long edge of the triangle on the straight of grain, I think you'd get a total of 5 pieces, 3 on the start (bottom or top) and the 2 in the middle, plus left over trims.
There are sites/calculations on how big a square to cut into an X too -- but these are big and I don't think would cut well without leaving lots of scraps/extra yardage.
If you have a large enough ruler (I have a 16" square) you can mark the 13.5" line with tape, like I did here for this project where I needed a 7.5" cut and the closest ruler was 8.5". I always use the top of the tape as my line, sometimes I need to put in an extra mark on which way is the correct way!
Last edited by Iceblossom; 10-23-2019 at 07:48 AM. Reason: add picture
10-23-2019, 08:01 AM
#20
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Once again, I got messed up on my math. Ok, so when you cut that 13.5" block on the diagonal, the diagonal is roughly 1.5 times the straight side. So you might only get 3 per width of fabric.
LOL really, doing it as originally designed is looking better all the time.
LOL really, doing it as originally designed is looking better all the time.
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