Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell

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02-04-2011, 02:28 PM

#9651

Glenn

Super Member

Join Date: Mar 2010

Location: Huntsville, AL

Posts: 2,609

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoJangles

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glenn

As soon as billy can find me a spoked handwheel I will get one of his HC to convert me old redeye since it does not have irons. Glenn

Glenn what happened to the spoked wheel on your Redeye?

Nancy

This was going to be a parts machine but when I cleaned it up I thought it would be great to have a HC. It was bought for 5.00 and the wheel on it was a solid one. It sews great. I have a spoked wheel on my 1916 redeye from my grandma and do not want to swap the wheels. Glenn

02-04-2011, 02:34 PM

#9652

Glenn

Super Member

Join Date: Mar 2010

Location: Huntsville, AL

Posts: 2,609

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lostn51

Oh while I am thinking about it here is the newest "keeper" in my collection. The reason I said that was because I bought another machine yesterday that I am going to sell on here once I figure out what I am going to do with it. You know the whole repaint or leave well enough alone.

Anyway it is an Eldridge "B" and the best I can tell it was made in 1885. It can not be any later than 1886 but I have a real good friend Annie looking at a bunch of photos of the machine with the serial to help me out in getting the exact year.

Billy

That is a great lookin machine!! Glenn

02-04-2011, 02:36 PM

#9653

luv2learn

Junior Member

Join Date: Mar 2009

Location: N/A

Posts: 185

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lostn51

Quote:

Originally Posted by luv2learn

Billy, re: the cleaning process, I have removed my parts, haven't cleaned w/kerosene yet, but started using the non-pumice goop on the machine. . . No matter how much or how many times I apply and wipe off, there is still a tacky/sticky feel to the finish. . . is that just because I haven't gotten through all the layers of grime yet? will it eventually be smoothe without that tackiness? Would the kerosene cut that or what? thanx luv2learn

Okay the shellac maybe getting a little soft on you. I would wipe off what you have on the machine real good ant let it sit for a while and see if it straightens out. If it does we know the problem. Do not get the kerosene on the finish if you can keep from it. I put a pan on the bed under the arm to catch the drippings from me brushing the parts behind the faceplate. The thing about kerosene is it will not rape the finish off if you get a splash on the machine. But do not leave it on for any length of time.

Billy

Billy, It has been sitting for two days and I did go back and check it. . here's is the situation: as I gently rub my fingers over and look at it with side lighting, it is VERY SPOTTY: very rough (where decals are because I have cleaned those areas less), sticky/tacky (where I have moderately cleaned), and smooth and a little shiny where I have cleaned most.

So how do I best get it even. . I'm sure I cannot clean the decals as much as the little shiny spots, but how do I even out the rest. . . are those the things the liquid gold will even up?

02-04-2011, 02:46 PM

#9654

Glenn

Super Member

Join Date: Mar 2010

Location: Huntsville, AL

Posts: 2,609

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lostn51

Glenn thanks so much for the wonderful information on repairing the lifting veneer on the cabinets. I have one I have to work on (yes I do not like refinishing wood for some reason :roll: ) and I will use this method to fix an issue I have with mine. You make it sound so much easier than some of the other how to's I have seen. And I have replaced the veneer on one cabinet I had and it was not fun but it came out really nice. The only catch is that I used an automotive clear for the finish and it is way too glossy! But what do you expect for a guy that pants cars......... :lol:

Billy

Billy us antiques restoration people have always had trouble with you car painters wanting to spray that high gloss finish on wood. That is okay I understand!!! :lol: You can rub the finish down with steel wool(oooo) and wax to take some of this shine off if you want. Most people do not realize that shellac was used on the machine cabinets and the machines themselves. It is wise to test the finish to see what it is. I am like you Billy we are family and I am here to help. Glenn

02-04-2011, 02:58 PM

#9655

KellyK

Senior Member

Join Date: Apr 2010

Posts: 744

Quote:

Originally Posted by QuiltnCowgirl

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miz Johnny

Some machines don't have a clutch knob (or stop motion screw) on the handwheel

Ok - so now that I know what it is called I can ask...

What do you do when the clutch knob no longer stops the handwheel when winding a bobbin. My Featherweight has done this for years. Now my 403 is starting to do it. What is the fix?

I have this problem with my 501A, anyone have ideas?

02-04-2011, 03:04 PM

#9656

BoJangles

Super Member

Join Date: Apr 2010

Location: Rescue, California

Posts: 4,585

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lostn51

Nancy my Eldridge will be really nice once I get finished with it but it came with all of its accessories, that to me was well worth the $40!!

Your Free is so pretty and I ma glad to hear it is up and running! Now are you going to make a quilt on it? You know that is an unwritten law around here make at least one quilt or something on each of your machines that you have from start to finish. :thumbup:

Billy

Yup! That is the plan!

Nancy

02-04-2011, 03:08 PM

#9657

BoJangles

Super Member

Join Date: Apr 2010

Location: Rescue, California

Posts: 4,585

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjradj

I decided in the store to have a "peek" at the trade ins. There was a White "jeans machine" sitting there for @ $100. It weighed a substantial amount so I knew she wasn't all plastic inside. Considering the bench fee for a tune up was $80, and she was tuned up, clean as a whistle and came with a 3 month warranty, I bought it. Now I will have 3 machines again that the girls can go crazy on. And that one I can leave at the church so I don't have to lug three machines around every week. Well, that's my life story for now. Wish me luck!

I think you did great giving the Morse to someone who would use and appreciate her! Let us know how the quilting classes go with the girls!

Nancy

02-04-2011, 03:16 PM

#9658

cabbagepatchkid

Super Member

Join Date: Sep 2009

Location: Massachusetts, USA

Posts: 1,775

Quote:

Originally Posted by KellyK

Quote:

Originally Posted by QuiltnCowgirl

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miz Johnny

Some machines don't have a clutch knob (or stop motion screw) on the handwheel

I have this problem with my 501A, anyone have ideas?

I'm not an expert but I was reading about this in Dave McCallum's book "The Featherweight 221 and I" (which I highly recommend :-D ).

He says to remove the balance wheel and clean everything. Then oil the shaft, the stop action screw and a drop on the shaft. He says that the oil that once was there isn't any more. It is a dry balance-wheel running on a dry main-shaft causing the balance wheel to get stuck. The book explains how to go about doing all of this plus it has really clear and easy to understand drawings to help "see" what you are doing.

02-04-2011, 03:25 PM

#9659

BoJangles

Super Member

Join Date: Apr 2010

Location: Rescue, California

Posts: 4,585

Quote:

Originally Posted by BZ quilting

Can anyone tell me about this machine?

Sorry, cannot seem to attach photo.

BZ quilting if this is the machine that says Shapleigh on the head - it has to be a pre 1900 machine. The Shapleigh Hardware Store was founded in 1843 and stayed that until 1900 when Mr. Shapleigh retired. The Store was then renamed the Novell-Shapleigh Hardware Store. They made lots of things including sewing machines. Anyway, if your machine is in fact a Shapleigh -- it is very vintage. Also, if the machine is a true Shapleigh, it has to be a treadle or hand crank.

I'd like to see better pictures up close. I never heard of this company. If the machine is an original Shapleigh it is not a clone.

Nancy