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Your clear photo of folding the right binding strip up 45 degrees when joining the ends is a life changer for me! On every quilt I wrestle and wrestle to align them correctly and half the time I sew them twisted. Thank you!
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Originally Posted by LavenderBlue
(Post 7865226)
Your clear photo of folding the right binding strip up 45 degrees when joining the ends is a life changer for me! On every quilt I wrestle and wrestle to align them correctly and half the time I sew them twisted. Thank you!
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Very interesting.
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Originally Posted by wesing
(Post 7823590)
You have to sort of estimate where to stop the needle using your almost 3/8" allowance. I like to take an extra stitch or two, then reverse to make sure the corner is tacked down good.
I welcome your comments or suggestions. Darren Thanks Darren for the wonderful tutorial. This is the best one I have seen on the subject. I have a few comments. At the beginning, you do not need any kind of "tool". Lay the binding strip ends at right angles to each other, RST. The sewing line can be marked so you don't have to eye-ball it. Fold the top over to form a triangle there. Finger pressing will show you where to sew. Or you can draw a line with a marker. Both ways make it easier to keep that line rather straight. When you start sewing down the binding, first fold the top edge of the binding strip so that the raw edge of the end of the strip is even with the raw edge of the length of the strip. Press this very well. Use pins, ironing, starch or whatever will keep that crease visible until you are finished sewing on the binding. You don't really need a 12 inch tail. I've done it with eight or even six. After you have made a few stitches, put a pin in the quilt above where you started. If you have an eight inch tail, put the pin in at sixteen inches above the beginning stitching. This is where you will stop sewing on the binding and take the quilt out of the machine to finish the last seam. No need to measure anything at the end. Lay the beginning tail onto the quilt as you will want it sewn. Pin it down two or three inches from the tip of the triangle. Put a pin at the base of the triangle. This is where the strip end has been folded over. The base will be the width of the binding strip, no matter what width you make your binding strip. Lay the ending tail over the triangle, giving it a little tug to keep it snug. Pin a few inches from the end. Now comes the important part. Cut off that end at the base of the triangle. That's where you should have a pin. After it is cut, you can finish it as you have pictured. Very good pictures. BUT! Now there is a crease in the top piece, and that is where you will do the sewing. Easy peasy! After you have tested it to find out if you did it right and it will work, you need to press that seam open and then trim out those little triangles. This is the part you missed in the tutorial. You did a good job. Keep up the good work. |
I do all my baby quilts and charity quilt bindings by machine, but my stitching on the front does not stay on the back binding. I've pressed, pinned, clipped and still go off on the backside. I usually use 2-1/2" bindings as well. Suggestions?
Thanks. Love all you have done. Thanks. |
Originally Posted by PKGranny
(Post 7925984)
I do all my baby quilts and charity quilt bindings by machine, but my stitching on the front does not stay on the back binding. I've pressed, pinned, clipped and still go off on the backside. I usually use 2-1/2" bindings as well. Suggestions?
Thanks. Love all you have done. Thanks. |
Thanks for the great photos, Darren. I'm going to print those out and pin them to my design wall. What I've done up to now is play Emerald Meadows' video every single time I have to end off my binding. Thankfully, he speaks slowly enough that I can work right along with him. :)
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Thankyou for taking the time to post this. I'm also another Emerald Meadows fan!
Watson |
Originally Posted by b.zang
(Post 7823854)
I've never heard of sewing off the corner at 45 degrees to use as a guide for the mitre. Going to try that!
sandy |
Thank you, Darren, for a great tutorial.
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