Scallop binding tips
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
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I cut my strips on the bias on 45 inch fabric which gave me lengths of about 60 inches. I sewed them to the front edge of the quilt joining them as needed. The benefit of not making a continuous bias binding is I could shorten the strip as need so the joins did not fall in the valleys.
After sewing them on I ironed the binding outwards and formed the valley pleats on the front. I then came in from the back with a hand needle and thread and invisible ladder stitched just the 1/4 inch on the front.
This allowed me to spread the extra fabric easily to form the peak on the back to get ready to sew down the binding on the back without the front valley getting misshapen. I will post pictures.
1. Front ironed and pinned
2. Ladder stitch in but not pulled tight yet so you could see it
3. What the back binding looks like pinned ready to hand stitch.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]605815[/ATTACH]
After sewing them on I ironed the binding outwards and formed the valley pleats on the front. I then came in from the back with a hand needle and thread and invisible ladder stitched just the 1/4 inch on the front.
This allowed me to spread the extra fabric easily to form the peak on the back to get ready to sew down the binding on the back without the front valley getting misshapen. I will post pictures.
1. Front ironed and pinned
2. Ladder stitch in but not pulled tight yet so you could see it
3. What the back binding looks like pinned ready to hand stitch.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]605815[/ATTACH]
#9
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 41,376

I have hand stitched the bias binding to the quilt back and I stitched the back V's as I stitched the binding. It turned out well and the scallops match nicely when the quilt is folded.[ATTACH=CONFIG]606119[/ATTACH]
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12-25-2010 09:49 PM