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Thread: Tutorial on scalloped borders Pics at post 41

  1. #1
    Super Member Eddie's Avatar
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    Tutorial on scalloped borders Pics at post 41

    After posting pics of a recent quilt that I made with scalloped borders, several members asked if I would create a tutorial on how I did them. So here it is. :)

    First off, here's a pic of the entire quilt. As you can see, the scallops are a gentle wave around the edge of the quilt will rolling peaks and valleys. Also, note that each corner has a peak that rolls around it.

    [IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...tutorial_6.jpg[/IMG]

    Also, note that each of my blocks are 6" square, and that there is an even number of them each way (10 blocks x 12 blocks). This is VERY important in getting the scallop pattern to work out correctly.

    Here's a closer look at the scalloped border. Notice that there is a peak or valley in the border above the seam between each block. So, the height of the peak and the bottom of the valley are 6" apart (the width of a finished block).

    [IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...tutorial_1.jpg[/IMG]

    Before even contemplating the scalloped border, I first sewed on my border, which was 4" wide. I did all of the quilting (stitch in the ditch), just as you would with a normal square quilt. I now turned to creating a template for the scalloped edge. Since my raw border was 4" wide, I knew that the curve around the corners would need to have a radius slightly less than 4". So I went to the kitchen and found a Tupperware lid that was 7.5" across. This worked out to a radius of 3.75", which was just right.

    In the picture below, you can see the template laying on top of the quilt in the correct position for drawing the outline on the border, and also the Tupperware lid where it was positioned for drawing on the border around the corner. For creating the template, I simply laid the Tupperware lid on the cardboard so that it's center was over the seam between the border and blocks and then drew around the upper edge of it to do the right peak. I then did the same on the left side of the template to create the left peak of the template. And finally, I move it to the center and drew along the lower edge of the lid to create the valley of the template. After this. I took a ruler and drew in connecting lines between the peak curves and the valley curves.

    [IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...tutorial_3.jpg[/IMG]

    After I had the curves of the peaks and valley drawn on the template, I cut the template out. I then aligned the peak and valley horizontal and vertical lines with the block/border seams and using a pen I drew around the curves of the template. I then picked the template up and moved to the next position, realigned it and drew the next curves, and so on. When I got to the corners, I used the Tupperware lid to draw the curve around the corner.

    Now that my wavy line was drawn all around the border, I took the quilt to the sewing machine and stiched about 1/8" inside the drawn line. It's important, too, to not cut the wavy line of the border until after stitching on the binding, as the extra material helps to stabalize the quilt while stitching.

    I created my binding strips by cutting 2.75" strips on the bias (45 degrees to the selvedge) so that the strips would have move give when working around the curved edges. This is very important as strips cut on the straight grain won't give as much and will be more difficult to work with.

    After I had my binding strips cut and sewed together, I folded them over and ironed them into 1 3/8" strips. I sewed the raw edge of the strips on the drawn template lines of the quilt. Be careful to not stretch or pull on the strips as you work them into the peak and valleys - just let them follow the curve so that when you wrap them to the back you will have enough workability in them.

    After the binding is stitched all around the edge, I used a rotary cutter to follow the binding edge and cut the wavy edge of the border.

    I then wrapped the binding over the edge and did stitch-in-the-ditch between the border and binding edge so that needle just catches the edge of the binding on the back by about 1/8" inch. It's important to work slowly when doing this since you are sewing a constantly undulating curve. As I'm doing this, I'm constantly lifting the quilt and looking underneath to check that my binding on the back looks like it will be caught by the needle (i.e., a 1/2" on the back, since I'm sewing 3/8" on the front.

    Here's a view of the back of the quilt. You can see that the thread on the binding on the back is about 1/8" in from the edge of it.

    [IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...tutorial_4.jpg[/IMG]

    Although I strived to be careful and have that 1/8" between the sewn line and the binding edge, sometimes it was a little more which left me with a little bit of a lip of fabric beyond the sewn line. For areas of the binding when it may have gotten up to about a 1/4" lip, I used some of this wonderful stuff called Fabri-tac, which is permanent fabric glue. It goes on clear, dries clear and fast, and can be washed. I love this stuff. I just laid a small bead into the crevice between the binding and backing on the back of the quilt where that fabric lip got a little bigger than I wanted. That lip lays perfectly flat now.

    [IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...tutorial_5.jpg[/IMG]

    Of course, you could hand-stitch the binding on the back, but I simply don't have the patience or dexterity for such intricate work. My eyesight is bad enough as is, and I have to use reading glasses when working on quilts. But we each do what works for us. :)

    Hope this was helpful.

  2. #2
    Power Poster amma's Avatar
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    Thank you so much for taking the time to do this tutorial for us!!! I think I could do a wavy border now!!! :D :D :D

  3. #3
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    nicely written - nice quilt, too

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    Great tute Eddie! I'm looking forward to doing a wavy border now, instead of being afraid. Thanks!!! :P :P :P

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    Senior Member ljsunflower's Avatar
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    Great tutorial! And I love your binding! Super job on both.

    TFS
    Linda

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    Senior Member sewaholic's Avatar
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    You have made this look so easy. :lol:

  7. #7
    Moderator tlrnhi's Avatar
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    Thanks Eddie!
    Fabri-Tac? I LOVE THAT STUFF!!
    It's not only good for quilting, it's great for around the house fixes too! :)

  8. #8
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    Thank you very much, Eddie. Great tutorial.

  9. #9
    Super Member Sheila Elaine's Avatar
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    Easy instructions to follow. The scalloped border really sets this quilt off, like it was just made for it. Your binding looks great, also. Keep up the great work.

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    thank you, you're a peach!

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    Super Member sewsewquilter's Avatar
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    thanks!

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    Senior Member dizzy's Avatar
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    Dear Eddie
    I loved the idea if the tupperware lids i have a stack of them that i got with
    my secound serger that i only gave $5.00 for because there wasn't a cord with it well the cord only cost me $25.00 at our localquilt an sewing shop.
    blees that dear lady she didn't stop til she got it right.she had to send it back
    i know three times an all the time i was going in an getting stuff at her shop i didn't know it but she was my cousins.Step grandmother an i didn't find that out till i had read her obituary in the paper.an seen tha girls names in the paper an the great grandsons name sinched it.but i also use my tupperware lids i get like i did them for timplets.i have one i know is over twenty years old because i made it long before i had my first child an she is 24 an has me a 5yrold an a 5month old grandsons.

  13. #13
    Moderator Jim's Gem's Avatar
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    Great tute Eddie!! Your quilt looks great. I may have to try a wavy border here sometime!!!

  14. #14
    Super Member Teacup's Avatar
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    Thanks so much! Another bookmarked tutorial from you. You did a great job explaining this, and the fabric glue suggestion is a good one also.

  15. #15
    k3n
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    Thanks for that Eddie - will definitely be trying it SOON! :D

  16. #16
    Super Member peaceandjoy's Avatar
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    Thank you for great tutorial, and for the FabriTack tip!

  17. #17
    Super Member jbsstrawberry's Avatar
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    Thank you soooo much for this tutorial! You sure make it look A LOT easier than the book I bought for this very thing! You ROCK!

  18. #18
    Super Member wvdek's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tut, Eddie. I just love that quilt. Such a calm feeling to it. The scallooed borders are great.

  19. #19
    Super Member Butterflyspain's Avatar
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    Thanks so much that was such a clever way to do it.

    really appreciate the time and effort taken to do this for us.

    elle

  20. #20
    Super Member Feathers's Avatar
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    Eddie: What beautiful work you do and the tutorial is probably exactly what I needed to try making a scalloped edge which I've wanted to do forever but feared I'd screw it up. Thank you.

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    Score one for us Guys!!!!

    That is a dramatic look for minimal effort or at least you make it look easy. :D I think I am going to apply this to my quilt that I am working on right now.

    Thank you so much for the tutorial!

    Billy

  22. #22
    Lady Bug's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tut. And the glue looks like it has possibilities.

  23. #23
    Power Poster Mousie's Avatar
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    here comes our next wave of 'something new to try' lol. I think everybody likes scalloped borders. I especially like them :P
    (they're so much fun for a little mouse to slide on...wheee! :wink: )

  24. #24

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    Thank you so very much for this tutorial. I've been wanting to do scalloped edges and you've taken the fear out of doing them for me.

    And the use of fabri-tac is great. can't wait to get some.

    Again thank you very much, wonderful of you to take the time to write and upload all the pictures for us.

    Thank you and God bless you and yours
    Pam

  25. #25
    Super Member 3incollege's Avatar
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    Eddie, thanks so much for the tute, my next quilt will have scollop edges. You did a great job with the instructions.

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