Curved Seams
04-23-2011, 07:56 PM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,943
Sewing Curved Seams
This is applicable especially for Drunkard’s Path and Wheel of Mystery quilts, but can be adapted to other curved seam piecing.
First off: there is an “Innie” and an Outtie” curve piece, or if you prefer a “crust” and a “pie wedge.”
Do Not cut into the pieces at all. Keep the edges rounded as per the templates.
Take each piece so that you halve each curve with a finger pressing. Then match the finger pressed centerfold lines and pin these together. Pin so that the curves are evenly divided. I prefer my pins to be opposite of what many quilters use: the point of the pin goes toward the edge of the fabric so I can remove it with my left hand. Sometimes I pin but keep the point of the pin just shy of the actual sewing line but so those finger pressed folds are together.
Keep consistent when sewing the two curves together. I like to sew with a relaxed bottom, or the innie/crust side on the bottom. It sounds funny and is easier for me to remember. Sew with RST and a ¼” seam allowance.
Some people pin the start of the sewing so that the ends are aligned. I don’t. After you get used to doing this you may find you don’t need to pin this anymore as you can easily hold the starting ends together accurately. If you have it, use the needle down function on your machine as it is easier to sew that way. [I have a Pfaff and disengage the IDT for this sewing as I will be manipulating the fabric.] There is no need to use any ‘special” foot other than a ¼” flange guide foot. If your machine doesn’t have one, then any seam guide that allows a ¼” seam will do. Otherwise just keep close watch on your foot so that you sew the consistent seam. Keep one finger between the layers of fabric so it is easier to align the edges as you sew. At first you will probably only take 3-6 stitches at a time. Gradually you may increase this if you are comfortable doing so. Check to make sure there aren’t any folds or wrinkles in the bottom piece of fabric. When you reach the pin at the half way point, remove the pin, place your finger again between the two layers, and use long handled slant pointed tweezers to hold the ends of the fabrics together. Using these tweezers you can hold the ends together til you finish your sewing. Some people prefer to pin at the ends and that is OK too. Remember no sewing over pins.
Keeping a finger between the fabrics and aligning the center points are the 2 main key factors of doing this type of curved piecing.
I have done it with the innie/crust on bottom and with it on top. Either way works well. To me this is a personal preference. Just be consistent within the project you are making.
It is easier if you chain piece your curves as you will develop a rhythm to your sewing and find it very relaxing this way. You may also find you can feel that you are keeping the fabric free of folds with that finger between the fabrics.
Some people prefer to iron the seams to the innie/crust. Others prefer the opposite. Look at your work and you decide which look you want. It is your quilt.
AliKat
Phoenix, AZ
This is applicable especially for Drunkard’s Path and Wheel of Mystery quilts, but can be adapted to other curved seam piecing.
First off: there is an “Innie” and an Outtie” curve piece, or if you prefer a “crust” and a “pie wedge.”
Do Not cut into the pieces at all. Keep the edges rounded as per the templates.
Take each piece so that you halve each curve with a finger pressing. Then match the finger pressed centerfold lines and pin these together. Pin so that the curves are evenly divided. I prefer my pins to be opposite of what many quilters use: the point of the pin goes toward the edge of the fabric so I can remove it with my left hand. Sometimes I pin but keep the point of the pin just shy of the actual sewing line but so those finger pressed folds are together.
Keep consistent when sewing the two curves together. I like to sew with a relaxed bottom, or the innie/crust side on the bottom. It sounds funny and is easier for me to remember. Sew with RST and a ¼” seam allowance.
Some people pin the start of the sewing so that the ends are aligned. I don’t. After you get used to doing this you may find you don’t need to pin this anymore as you can easily hold the starting ends together accurately. If you have it, use the needle down function on your machine as it is easier to sew that way. [I have a Pfaff and disengage the IDT for this sewing as I will be manipulating the fabric.] There is no need to use any ‘special” foot other than a ¼” flange guide foot. If your machine doesn’t have one, then any seam guide that allows a ¼” seam will do. Otherwise just keep close watch on your foot so that you sew the consistent seam. Keep one finger between the layers of fabric so it is easier to align the edges as you sew. At first you will probably only take 3-6 stitches at a time. Gradually you may increase this if you are comfortable doing so. Check to make sure there aren’t any folds or wrinkles in the bottom piece of fabric. When you reach the pin at the half way point, remove the pin, place your finger again between the two layers, and use long handled slant pointed tweezers to hold the ends of the fabrics together. Using these tweezers you can hold the ends together til you finish your sewing. Some people prefer to pin at the ends and that is OK too. Remember no sewing over pins.
Keeping a finger between the fabrics and aligning the center points are the 2 main key factors of doing this type of curved piecing.
I have done it with the innie/crust on bottom and with it on top. Either way works well. To me this is a personal preference. Just be consistent within the project you are making.
It is easier if you chain piece your curves as you will develop a rhythm to your sewing and find it very relaxing this way. You may also find you can feel that you are keeping the fabric free of folds with that finger between the fabrics.
Some people prefer to iron the seams to the innie/crust. Others prefer the opposite. Look at your work and you decide which look you want. It is your quilt.
AliKat
Phoenix, AZ
04-23-2011, 08:10 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Spring Branch, Texas
Posts: 981
Thank-you for this detailed explanation of your method to sewing curves. It makes alot of sense and is so timely as I just cut out 144 Drunkards Path blocks and plan to sit down and start sewing them tomorrow.
I just bought the Curve Master and have tried it on a few practice blocks. Seems to stretch the bias edge on one half or the other of the block. Good to know the traditional way of sewing it.
I just bought the Curve Master and have tried it on a few practice blocks. Seems to stretch the bias edge on one half or the other of the block. Good to know the traditional way of sewing it.
04-24-2011, 03:40 PM
#8
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: North of Boston, MA, USA
Posts: 3,524
Have you checked out youtube for the CurveMaster? I made like 64 blocks and sewed 32 into a table runner last night in about 2 hours. Had to stop and clean machine and change needle, it was time.
Originally Posted by Grambi
Thank-you for this detailed explanation of your method to sewing curves. It makes alot of sense and is so timely as I just cut out 144 Drunkards Path blocks and plan to sit down and start sewing them tomorrow.
I just bought the Curve Master and have tried it on a few practice blocks. Seems to stretch the bias edge on one half or the other of the block. Good to know the traditional way of sewing it.
I just bought the Curve Master and have tried it on a few practice blocks. Seems to stretch the bias edge on one half or the other of the block. Good to know the traditional way of sewing it.
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