Binding
08-17-2014, 01:54 PM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Concord, CA
Posts: 72
Binding
I have two problem when it comes to sewing on binding. 1st problem is the corners. For some reason I have a problem with the miter corners. One side is to smaller than the other or the points don't come out right. The second problem is when I sew the ends the binding together. I have a problem doing a mitered seam. I get so frustrated that I end up just do straight seems which I don't like. Any suggestions?
08-17-2014, 02:14 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 314
08-17-2014, 02:38 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,688
Print out an online tutorial or get a basic quilting book from your library or bookstore, study them and then pracrice, practice, practice with the book open next to you.
No special tools are needed, much better to buy a book that covers ALL the basics of quiltmaking so you'll have it for reference through the years. I've been quilting since the 70's and still refer back to my 'starter' books when I'm having a problem with something. The basics haven't changed and the books are priceless.
No special tools are needed, much better to buy a book that covers ALL the basics of quiltmaking so you'll have it for reference through the years. I've been quilting since the 70's and still refer back to my 'starter' books when I'm having a problem with something. The basics haven't changed and the books are priceless.
08-17-2014, 03:34 PM
#5
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Hernando FL
Posts: 1,662
This is hard to describe without pictures so either a tutorial with pictures or a video would be the way to go. I don't use any special rulers or tools.
One thing I would like to add however is that most tutorials suggest you stop 1/4" from the end when you are sewing toward a corner. This is assuming that you are using a 1/4" seam allowance. I use the width of my walking foot for a seam allowance when sewing on my bindings which is more like 3/8" therefore I stop 3/8" from the corner rather than 1/4". The rule here is to stop the distance of your seam allowance.
Another tip for achieving crisp miters on corners whether they are 90 degree corners or otherwise (60 degree for example) is when you fold your binding up at the corner make sure the binding and the raw edge you will eventually be sewing on after you turn your corner are in a straight line. You can use your ruler on a flat surface to double check. With a 90 degree corner by keeping the binding and the raw edge along the other side in a straight line this will give you a nice 45 degree fold. You can then either pin or hold on to this fold with a finger and bring the binding down along the raw edge you will be sewing on. If you have something other than a 90 degree corner your fold will be at a corresponding angle and not 45 degrees but the process is the same.
One thing that might help you in mitering the two ends when you are joining your binding at the end is to make a sample that you can keep handy along with some notes in your own words on how you did it. When I was teaching my daughter-in-law how to do it she took pictures at each step and so when she had to do it when I wasn't there she had those to refer to. There are multiple methods to do this and you just need to find one that works with your way of thinking. The first way I was taught to do it was so complicated but made perfect sense to the person teaching it. I searched and found a better way for me.
One tip I will add for mitering a binding at the end is that when I get ready to pin my two ends together (after I measured and cut them) I take a binder clip (like you get at an office supply store) and clip a big pleat in my quilt behind where I'm working so I'm not fighting with it as I'm trying to twist and sew the binding. The binding ends are free and longer than the pleated quilt at this point. Another tip is that once I sew my miter I never cut the extra off until I'm sure the binding fits and I've sewn the miter in the correct direction!
One thing I would like to add however is that most tutorials suggest you stop 1/4" from the end when you are sewing toward a corner. This is assuming that you are using a 1/4" seam allowance. I use the width of my walking foot for a seam allowance when sewing on my bindings which is more like 3/8" therefore I stop 3/8" from the corner rather than 1/4". The rule here is to stop the distance of your seam allowance.
Another tip for achieving crisp miters on corners whether they are 90 degree corners or otherwise (60 degree for example) is when you fold your binding up at the corner make sure the binding and the raw edge you will eventually be sewing on after you turn your corner are in a straight line. You can use your ruler on a flat surface to double check. With a 90 degree corner by keeping the binding and the raw edge along the other side in a straight line this will give you a nice 45 degree fold. You can then either pin or hold on to this fold with a finger and bring the binding down along the raw edge you will be sewing on. If you have something other than a 90 degree corner your fold will be at a corresponding angle and not 45 degrees but the process is the same.
One thing that might help you in mitering the two ends when you are joining your binding at the end is to make a sample that you can keep handy along with some notes in your own words on how you did it. When I was teaching my daughter-in-law how to do it she took pictures at each step and so when she had to do it when I wasn't there she had those to refer to. There are multiple methods to do this and you just need to find one that works with your way of thinking. The first way I was taught to do it was so complicated but made perfect sense to the person teaching it. I searched and found a better way for me.
One tip I will add for mitering a binding at the end is that when I get ready to pin my two ends together (after I measured and cut them) I take a binder clip (like you get at an office supply store) and clip a big pleat in my quilt behind where I'm working so I'm not fighting with it as I'm trying to twist and sew the binding. The binding ends are free and longer than the pleated quilt at this point. Another tip is that once I sew my miter I never cut the extra off until I'm sure the binding fits and I've sewn the miter in the correct direction!
08-17-2014, 03:38 PM
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 11,276
When you are attaching the binding and come to the corner make sure you stop 1/4" (or whatever seam allowance you are using) away from the end. Don't eyeball it, get a ruler, measure the seam allowance you are actually using, then mark where to stop. It's better to stop one stitch too short than one stitch too far. When you do your fold, make sure that it's 45 degrees. Again, if you are not sure, use a triangle ruler. Then when you fold the binding back on itself to go down the next side, make sure the fold is even with the quilt. A teeny tiny bit hanging over the edge is OK, but if you have a lot hanging over (an 1/8" is too much), or it's too short your corner won't come out. After you have attached the binding and are turning it there are also a couple things you can do. First, try snipping out the batting in the corner. Don't snip the fabric or the thread, just the tiniest triangle of batting. This may allow the corner to lay better. When you fold the binding over the corner & do the miter, you have 2 ways to fold it. Try both. It will often be easier one way than the other.
08-17-2014, 03:38 PM
#7
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 12,861
I totally agree with 'ghostrider' about the basic quilting book being a must have resource. Also, make some smaller items to practice on,
Like potholders, placemats, table toppers. If you have a local quilt shop to visit check with them for some hands on help, if they are not busy and you go in with a small quilted item & your binding strips they will probably be happy to help. Also a local guild or sewing group would help show you, sometimes it doesn't (sink in- make sense) until you see someone do it, but even when you understand the process it still takes some practice
Like potholders, placemats, table toppers. If you have a local quilt shop to visit check with them for some hands on help, if they are not busy and you go in with a small quilted item & your binding strips they will probably be happy to help. Also a local guild or sewing group would help show you, sometimes it doesn't (sink in- make sense) until you see someone do it, but even when you understand the process it still takes some practice
08-24-2014, 04:38 AM
#9
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 19,127
I have been quilting for almost 30 years now and I STILL have problems with doing the miter to connect the ends so don't feel bad!! I saw instructions somewhere that you overlap your binding edges, then make a small snip on the cut edge making sure you have over 3" on each end of the binding. Then open the binding using the cut snips to guide you to line it up correctly but I forgot what goes where but eventually I am able to get it lined up properly.
I recently saw Patrick Lose, the original designer of Moda Marbles (my fabric tonal fabric) on F&P. He showed a slightly different variation on sewing binding in a corner. He stops sewing just at the 1/4" end then pivots the quilt and sews off to the corner of the quilt. This give you your perfect miter. He cuts the thread, and then fold the binding as you would normally and continues to sew to the next corner. There is more to this but you really have to watch him doing to understand the concept. I was skeptical at first but it works and I now I do it his way. I think it was the 2300 series but not sure when or if F&P will let you watch the series online.
I recently saw Patrick Lose, the original designer of Moda Marbles (my fabric tonal fabric) on F&P. He showed a slightly different variation on sewing binding in a corner. He stops sewing just at the 1/4" end then pivots the quilt and sews off to the corner of the quilt. This give you your perfect miter. He cuts the thread, and then fold the binding as you would normally and continues to sew to the next corner. There is more to this but you really have to watch him doing to understand the concept. I was skeptical at first but it works and I now I do it his way. I think it was the 2300 series but not sure when or if F&P will let you watch the series online.
08-24-2014, 05:47 AM
#10
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,688
I recently saw Patrick Lose, the original designer of Moda Marbles (my fabric tonal fabric) on F&P. He showed a slightly different variation on sewing binding in a corner. He stops sewing just at the 1/4" end then pivots the quilt and sews off to the corner of the quilt. This give you your perfect miter. He cuts the thread, and then fold the binding as you would normally and continues to sew to the next corner. There is more to this but you really have to watch him doing to understand the concept. I was skeptical at first but it works and I now I do it his way. I think it was the 2300 series but not sure when or if F&P will let you watch the series online.
Harriet Hargrave has been teaching this way of mitering binding since the mid-80's...30 years give or take. It works like a charm, always has. It's fully explained and illustrated, along with a whole lot of other good things (like joining the binding ends), in her book Heirloom Machine Quilting, one of those 'basic' reference books I referred to up above that everyone should have in their quilting library.
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