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    Old 02-04-2013, 03:52 PM
      #11  
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    I use 2.5" strips for my binding and use 3/8" seam allowance but sometimes I still
    have trouble when I bring it to the back. I think it depends on the thickness of
    the quilt. Different fabrics can create different thicknesses. Piano keys were the
    worst for me. I have to remember to cut wider bindings for such borders.
    Making a practice sandwich like MTS said is an excellent suggestion.
    When I make a practice sandwich (with the same fabrics/batting that's in
    the quilt) I get much better results. Just have to remember to do it and
    not rush to get that binding done...that is my problem. LOL
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    Old 02-04-2013, 04:28 PM
      #12  
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    anyone you ask, will tell you to cut the binding anywhere from 2.25 - 3 inc in width, then fold in half. it's whatever works good for you. for me, since i sew with 1/4 inc seams 2.75 works best for me.
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    Old 02-04-2013, 04:40 PM
      #13  
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    First, let yourself off the hook for binding by machine. I do that on every quilt I make. Sometimes the bindings turn out better than other times. I, too, have hand problems, so the quilts would never be bound if that were the only way to do it. To be honest, they wouldn't get bound by hand even if I had no hand problems! I am one of the worst hand sewers in the world....

    I use small binder clips to put the binding around the quilt edges. I tried gluing; the results were not wonderful, but ok. The binder clips are a great alternative to pins because they don't stab me! And they hold the binding in place while I sew.

    One of the things that I have discovered is that binding by machine requires constant adjustment of the quilt itself during the process so that your quilt top does not hang to the right or the left of the needle. ****The weight of the quilt pulls the quilt to the side and makes it very difficult to sew a straight line.**** Make sure you have plenty of room on your sewing table to put the weight of the quilt on, and pay attention to maintaining its' presence on the table as you bind.

    Mitering the corners takes practice. Make a few square or rectangular place mats for yourself and bind them. Each place mat gives you four chances to practice mitering corners without taking up too much time.

    When I cut my first binding, I cut it 3" wide. That helped me get it over both sides. Now I can use a strip as small as 1.75" for binding, but it ain't easy! 2.5" works very well.

    Most of the time I sew the binding on the back first, making sure that I can fold the binding over the sew line that creates on the front of the quilt. Then, when I am sewing the binding to the front, I make sure the TOP THREAD matches (or is close to) the color of the binding, and the bobbin thread blends well with the backing. Yes, that means I often have different colors in the top thread and bobbin. It's a little extra work, but the payoff is that my mistakes are not very obvious, which means less re-work!

    Good luck, and don't give up!
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    Old 02-04-2013, 06:40 PM
      #14  
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    Originally Posted by yweinst
    So I watched the Susan Schamber's method three times before binding this one which is why I used the 2 1/4" strip. I square the quilt and it looked great and then came the binding debacle.
    Yael
    You may be using a different batting than Sharon Schamber. Different battings have different thicknesses, and this affects how wide you cut your binding strips.
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    Old 02-04-2013, 09:18 PM
      #15  
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    I use 2.5 and it seems to work well for me. I think any smaller would be a little tight for me, hang in ther you will get it!!!
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    Old 02-04-2013, 09:29 PM
      #16  
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    belfrybat: We Texans must stick together - I also pull the backing over whenever possible. Sometimes that just doesn't work, but when it does - easy peasy! I have one right now that's in Time Out until I get brave enough to tackle it - a baby quilt with Minky on the back that will have satin binding. I've done it before so I know I can do it again, but oh I'm dreading it!
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    Old 02-05-2013, 04:05 AM
      #17  
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    I'm not from Texas but I sometimes use the backing wrapped to the front as binding too. It all depends on the quilt. If I'm making a very scrappy, drag around get washed often quilt, this method of binding is fast and works perfectly. If I'm cutting binding (I use Shelley Rodgers continuous bias binding method, which is the best easiest method ever), I cut my binding at least 2.5" and up to 3" if the quilt is flannel. I always machine stitch my bindings, so I sew them to the back first and bring them to the front and top stitch them. Sometimes I use a fancy stitch. I think bindings done this way look good and wear well. No one that I have ever made a quilt for complained that my bindings were machine quilted.My bindings done this way end up being a little wider on the front than the back but that doesn't bother me or any of the quilt users.
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    Old 02-05-2013, 05:17 AM
      #18  
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    I had issues with quilt binding until I took a look at Marci Baker's method - you can view it online: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ot7Trk6J2Vw - this is the easiest method that I have had found and the results are super. On one of the quilt trips that I took there was a quilt instructor and she said that Marci Baker's method is the only one that she uses. Good luck - it is well worth the time to view the video.
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    Old 02-05-2013, 05:30 AM
      #19  
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    I use 2 1/4 " binding strips and sew with 1/4" seam and then bind by hand
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    Old 02-05-2013, 05:40 AM
      #20  
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    never thought about it. but for sure, the type of batting you use is the reason we make our bindings different sizes. and i often do my binding on the sewing machine very carefully. a lot of times with a decorative stitch.
    sewNso is offline  
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