Advice on re-wiring and changing brushes on this old motor?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 670
Advice on re-wiring and changing brushes on this old motor?
Dear Group,
The photos here are of a motor for my Phoenix 429. It is a Made-In-Belgium motor :-)
I wish to replace the wiring for obvious reasons.
I would also like to investigate the brushes and likely replace them just for good measure while I have it all apart. However, unlike other machines I have disassembled, the brushes do not come out the usual way! Upon closer inspection, it is evident that the brush housing is actually soldered to a wire which lead to the rest of the motor.
Has anyone ever dealt with a motor such as this? Any pointers at all would be so much appreciated.
As well, the motor does not want to slide out of the housing. This could simply be that it is lodged in there with the motor wire, but again, if anyone has any practical suggestions as to how to go about any of this, I would be grateful!
Just for shock value, I am including a photo of how much sludge I brushed out of the motor housing... Yikes.
Photos to follow in next post.
-Cecilia
The photos here are of a motor for my Phoenix 429. It is a Made-In-Belgium motor :-)
I wish to replace the wiring for obvious reasons.
I would also like to investigate the brushes and likely replace them just for good measure while I have it all apart. However, unlike other machines I have disassembled, the brushes do not come out the usual way! Upon closer inspection, it is evident that the brush housing is actually soldered to a wire which lead to the rest of the motor.
Has anyone ever dealt with a motor such as this? Any pointers at all would be so much appreciated.
As well, the motor does not want to slide out of the housing. This could simply be that it is lodged in there with the motor wire, but again, if anyone has any practical suggestions as to how to go about any of this, I would be grateful!
Just for shock value, I am including a photo of how much sludge I brushed out of the motor housing... Yikes.
Photos to follow in next post.
-Cecilia
#5
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Cecilia,
The silver end pieces should be removable by wiggling it from the housing. It might be part of a two piece inner frame, I can't tell you only showed the one end.
>First, make sure you have any screws or bolts removed that would hold the inner frame to the housing.
>Second, make sure the brushes and caps are out of the way, looks like you've done that.
>Third, cut the wire at the rubber grommet. Then remove the grommet. That will help reduce the things in the way.
Don't cut the wire all the way off as you'll need some to attach your new wires too.
>Forth, tap, around the outer parts of the case to free up the inner frame, then work it out.
Once you've got it apart, use some really fine non metallic sand paper and a popsickle stick to polish off the commutator.
Clean all the old carbon off of it, the brush tubes and the brushes. I stick the motor shaft in a drill motor that's in a vise and let the drill do the turning as I gently clean the commutator.
While your working on the commutator and wires oil the bearings and let them sit for a while.
Solder your new wires onto the old ones as close to the coil as you can, then cover them with heat shrink. Tie an underwriters knot in the wire to keep the strain off the connections, put a new grommet in the housing and slide it all back together.
Don't forget to put the new wire through the grommet before you put the housing on and put the plug on. ( I did and it doesn't really work right that way. )
This is easier to do than to explain. But I'll do the best I can to help.
Joe
The silver end pieces should be removable by wiggling it from the housing. It might be part of a two piece inner frame, I can't tell you only showed the one end.
>First, make sure you have any screws or bolts removed that would hold the inner frame to the housing.
>Second, make sure the brushes and caps are out of the way, looks like you've done that.
>Third, cut the wire at the rubber grommet. Then remove the grommet. That will help reduce the things in the way.
Don't cut the wire all the way off as you'll need some to attach your new wires too.
>Forth, tap, around the outer parts of the case to free up the inner frame, then work it out.
Once you've got it apart, use some really fine non metallic sand paper and a popsickle stick to polish off the commutator.
Clean all the old carbon off of it, the brush tubes and the brushes. I stick the motor shaft in a drill motor that's in a vise and let the drill do the turning as I gently clean the commutator.
While your working on the commutator and wires oil the bearings and let them sit for a while.
Solder your new wires onto the old ones as close to the coil as you can, then cover them with heat shrink. Tie an underwriters knot in the wire to keep the strain off the connections, put a new grommet in the housing and slide it all back together.
Don't forget to put the new wire through the grommet before you put the housing on and put the plug on. ( I did and it doesn't really work right that way. )
This is easier to do than to explain. But I'll do the best I can to help.
Joe
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 613
You could also check out something called de-solder its essentially the opposite of soldering, ya heat up the bit of solder with the soldering iron, the kit has a wick that absorbs the solder then just re-solder new wires on it. I believe walmart does carry the kit in the electrical section for under 10 bucks. Little brother did this to repair his old old nintendo. LoL he still plays the original NES. ;-)
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 670
Thanks all, so far, for the pointers.
The motor did slide out, just with some firm pressure and loosening of the motor wire.
Also the brushes came out in the way one would except, except the hardware holding them in was a sort of spring-loaded thing which I had been too timid with. The brushes are in great shape, no need to replace at all, phew!
For the record, those set screws are removable, but they have more to do with the brush housing than the brushes themselves.
The motor is really in fabulous shape, except for the wire which will be replaced this weekend.
I know almost nothing about electricity, I am embarrassed to say - but I will not be doing this alone; I'll have the guidance of an Expert on All Things Electrical And Solder-Like.
Will post back when wire is changed!
Thank you again all so much. I -love- breathing new life into old things, and I am so happy that there is a group here who aren't just Throw-Away-And-Buy-A-New-One types.
:-)
-C.
The motor did slide out, just with some firm pressure and loosening of the motor wire.
Also the brushes came out in the way one would except, except the hardware holding them in was a sort of spring-loaded thing which I had been too timid with. The brushes are in great shape, no need to replace at all, phew!
For the record, those set screws are removable, but they have more to do with the brush housing than the brushes themselves.
The motor is really in fabulous shape, except for the wire which will be replaced this weekend.
I know almost nothing about electricity, I am embarrassed to say - but I will not be doing this alone; I'll have the guidance of an Expert on All Things Electrical And Solder-Like.
Will post back when wire is changed!
Thank you again all so much. I -love- breathing new life into old things, and I am so happy that there is a group here who aren't just Throw-Away-And-Buy-A-New-One types.
:-)
-C.
#9
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Cecilia,
When it comes to wiring motors, the way I do it is to duplicate the paths and contours the old wiring had with the new wiring.
Make the soldered area as short as you can, soldered areas don't flex. Leave enough wire inside the motor to work with but not so much that it gets in the way.
And if the old wiring is bad, don't plug it in. Things get really interesting when that happens. Don't ask me how I know this.
Joe
When it comes to wiring motors, the way I do it is to duplicate the paths and contours the old wiring had with the new wiring.
Make the soldered area as short as you can, soldered areas don't flex. Leave enough wire inside the motor to work with but not so much that it gets in the way.
And if the old wiring is bad, don't plug it in. Things get really interesting when that happens. Don't ask me how I know this.
Joe
#10
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern CA near Sacramento
Posts: 1,107
Celia and Joe,
Yes, plugging it in with bad wiring causes "sparkling".
Cathy
Yes, plugging it in with bad wiring causes "sparkling".
Cathy
Cecilia,
When it comes to wiring motors, the way I do it is to duplicate the paths and contours the old wiring had with the new wiring.
Make the soldered area as short as you can, soldered areas don't flex. Leave enough wire inside the motor to work with but not so much that it gets in the way.
And if the old wiring is bad, don't plug it in. Things get really interesting when that happens. Don't ask me how I know this.
Joe
When it comes to wiring motors, the way I do it is to duplicate the paths and contours the old wiring had with the new wiring.
Make the soldered area as short as you can, soldered areas don't flex. Leave enough wire inside the motor to work with but not so much that it gets in the way.
And if the old wiring is bad, don't plug it in. Things get really interesting when that happens. Don't ask me how I know this.
Joe
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