Welcome to the Quilting Board!

Already a member? Login above
loginabove
OR
To post questions, help other quilters and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our quilting community. It's free!

Page 3 of 27 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 13 ... LastLast
Results 51 to 75 of 656

Thread: Cleaning and repairing the Shellac clear coat on Vintage sewing machine heads

  1. #51
    Super Member Christine-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    1,262
    I found it at Advanced Auto. It's near the naval jelly.

  2. #52
    Super Member nanna-up-north's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    3,003
    Thanks Christine. I'll check out our auto supply when I go into town...... 30 miles from town so we don't go often.

  3. #53
    Super Member Christine-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    1,262
    You might call to make sure they carry it. I tried 3 hardware stores and 1 other automotive store before I found it at Advanced Auto. Everyone carries naval jelly, but you can't use naval jelly on chrome. Evaporust is safe even for bare hands. And it does a great job on the rust, I was amazed when I saw the results.

  4. #54
    Super Member Glenn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Huntsville, AL
    Posts
    2,550
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by nanna-up-north View Post
    Skip, great tut, as always. I so appreciate your advice. I'm wondering though where to look for evaporrust. My DH and son left some fishing lures down in the boat last week and the hooks got rusty from the heavy rain that came down. I'm thinking that soaking the hooks in evaporrust might be the solution to the problem. If the hooks aren't sharp (and rust sure makes them dull) the fish don't get caught. I've got to find a way to get the rust off. Then, I can use evaporrust on the machines I find as well.
    I get mine at Auto Zone, Skip
    Glenn W. Cleveland

  5. #55
    Super Member Christine-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    1,262
    Is there a method of treating the cracked paint on an old machine? I found a 201K (with the light mounted on the back ) and it must have been in the heat at one time in it's life. The paint is japaning (why is it called japaning, by the way?). It should arrive in a week or so.

  6. #56
    Super Member Christine-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    1,262
    Is there a method of treating the cracked paint on an old machine? I found a 201K (with the light mounted on the back ) and it must have been in the heat at one time in it's life. The paint is japaning (why is it called japaning, by the way?). It should arrive in a week or so.

    I want to fill in the cracks where bare metal is showing through.

  7. #57
    Super Member Glenn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Huntsville, AL
    Posts
    2,550
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Christine- View Post
    Is there a method of treating the cracked paint on an old machine? I found a 201K (with the light mounted on the back ) and it must have been in the heat at one time in it's life. The paint is japaning (why is it called japaning, by the way?). It should arrive in a week or so.
    Yes there is and it is not hard to do. When you get the machine post a pic here and I will show how to repair it. In the meantime you can collect your supplies. Boiled linseed oil, denatured alcohol, clear shellac and aniline dye stain that is mixed with alcohol(any wood workers cat will have it.)
    Glenn W. Cleveland

  8. #58
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Jersey Shore
    Posts
    528
    I have been pondering this issue.

    I am finding that lacquer stabilizes and fills in cracks better than the shellac. That is not to say that the final coat can't be shellac to give the machine all the authenticity that is desirable. I am working and nearly finished with a 201-2 that was in horrible shape. I will post but I like the results. The main issue is the decals. I don't trust the french polishing with them, and yes, I did see your strategy for dealing with them. If you lacquer, they are safe forever and then you can shellac over the lacquer. Let's keep in mind that these machines are 50 to 75 years old on the average. I think that you can get a nicer result if you don't have to worry about the decals, and also the finish will be very smooth. I'd be interested to know your thoughts. I know that a purist would probably disagree with this, but we are doing reverse engineering. Clearly, Singer put on the decals after the machine was shellacked and hence the problems we now face. To shellac over them really is not authentic either, so I err on the side of preserving the decals as best I can. Lacquer is difficult to use. I spray it with a compressor and get decent results, then sand, then will apply the shellac. Just some thoughts.

    Dan
    Last edited by DanofNJ; 07-15-2012 at 07:54 PM.

  9. #59
    Super Member Charlee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    PNW (I wish it was the Ozarks!)
    Posts
    6,509
    Blog Entries
    6
    Dan, I see your points, but disagree. The decals are exactly that...decals. If they were put on after the clear coat (shellac) you would have the edge ridges, ever so slight, but still there.
    If you look at where the decals are most often missing, it's on the cross bar, where people either had a pin cloth wrapped around it and/or grabbed the machine to raise/lower in and out of the cabinet (or lift it for whatever reason), or on the bed where hundreds of yards of fabric passed.

    Shellac can and does protect the decals and the finish on the machine. In most cases, I'm not a purist, but I'll stick with Skip's method. Shellac is extremely forgiving!!
    One day, you'll only be a memory for some people. Do your best to be a good one.

    http://charleeturner.blogspot.com

  10. #60
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Jersey Shore
    Posts
    528
    This is a great debate...

    But...Shellac, especially French Polishing can be touchy. especially for the beginner. If, and we have all gone through a bad shellac experience, it has to be removed, the process of removing to shellac to redo will fade or destroy the decals because they are not happy with shellac being "rubbed" off of them. Then you have nothing but a mess and destroyed decals which in most cases cannot be replaced. Glenn is an expert....so the likelihood of this happening is lessened, but for the average person trying to restore a machine for the first time it will end in disaster. If there is a lacquer base, you can rub shellac off and on the machine all day with no fear of damage because lacquer is not dissolved by the alcohol. With that said, I do very much respect Glenn's expertise and he could work on one of my machines anytime . I also agree that shellac is very forgiving. Just one note as well, by lacquer I do NOT mean automotive clearcoat which is basically plastic. I mean regular lacquer. As noted, I will post my latest project as a hybrid of Glenn's technique.

  11. #61
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Victorian Sweatshop
    Posts
    15,409
    Blog Entries
    2
    Well, we are pretty average and did it.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.

  12. #62
    Super Member Glenn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Huntsville, AL
    Posts
    2,550
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by DanofNJ View Post
    This is a great debate...

    But...Shellac, especially French Polishing can be touchy. especially for the beginner. If, and we have all gone through a bad shellac experience, it has to be removed, the process of removing to shellac to redo will fade or destroy the decals because they are not happy with shellac being "rubbed" off of them. Then you have nothing but a mess and destroyed decals which in most cases cannot be replaced. Glenn is an expert....so the likelihood of this happening is lessened, but for the average person trying to restore a machine for the first time it will end in disaster. If there is a lacquer base, you can rub shellac off and on the machine all day with no fear of damage because lacquer is not dissolved by the alcohol. With that said, I do very much respect Glenn's expertise and he could work on one of my machines anytime . I also agree that shellac is very forgiving. Just one note as well, by lacquer I do NOT mean automotive clearcoat which is basically plastic. I mean regular lacquer. As noted, I will post my latest project as a hybrid of Glenn's technique.
    Yes I am a purist and will not use lacquer on a machine. I disagree, shellac was applied over the decals after application to protect them and make them smooth with the bed. I have also used lacquer with good results but don't like it. Lacquer is difficult for the average home owner to do correctly so I don't recommend it. Yes I have been doing this for a long time and it comes easy but it is something the novice can do with not much problem. You can do a tut on you technique maybe a member would like to try in on one of their machines. As for me I will stick to the original finishes and proven antique restorations technque for the cabinets and the machine. Looking forward to seeing some of your work and continue the debate on different techniques.
    Skip
    Glenn W. Cleveland

  13. #63
    Super Member Charlee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    PNW (I wish it was the Ozarks!)
    Posts
    6,509
    Blog Entries
    6
    I have only used "The Method" on one machine so far, and with that one, knowing that shellac was missing over the decals, I cleaned and then dabbed shellac over the decals before I started the French Polish...that was I knew I wasn't going to be messing anything up!
    One day, you'll only be a memory for some people. Do your best to be a good one.

    http://charleeturner.blogspot.com

  14. #64
    Member KittyKat77's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    19
    Hello there. I am a beginner to working on old sewing machines, and quilting as well. I am not quite a beginner with sewing, my mom started me out with her sewing machine when I was maybe 9 or so. My mom had an old Singer treadle when I was little. I used to love it when she would open it up to show our friends how it worked. We had to sell it when we moved, unfortunately. I don't claim to be an expert, but I know enough to be dangerous!

    Anyhow, this week I did something completely crazy and brought home a Davis treadle vertical feed machine... the belt is gone, there's a bit of rust here and there, and the finish is of course a lovely orange-peel texture on the bed of the machine. The good news is when I turn the hand crank the needle and foot move like they ought to, and the shuttle also.


    I'd like to make this old beauty shine again. I may be overly optimistic, but I think I can get her working again. Should I use this technique with orange-peel textured crackled finish? Or is there something I should do first to protect the remaining decals? I've cleaned off the head some with sewing machine oil and gently wiping with a soft cloth. I just really don't want to damage the decals. I know my chances of actually damaging the body are laughable, unless I did something evil and left it outside in the rain.

    I don't have a vast selection of old machines to practice on, so eventually my only choice will be to make a decision:
    jump in with both feet and see if cleaning it works OR leave it as-is with regards to the paint, and just work on getting the mechanics running smoothly. I want to make sure when I choose, it is an educated decision. Any personal experiences or links to more Davis-related resources greatly appreciated!

  15. #65
    Super Member Glenn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Huntsville, AL
    Posts
    2,550
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by KittyKat77 View Post
    Hello there. I am a beginner to working on old sewing machines, and quilting as well. I am not quite a beginner with sewing, my mom started me out with her sewing machine when I was maybe 9 or so. My mom had an old Singer treadle when I was little. I used to love it when she would open it up to show our friends how it worked. We had to sell it when we moved, unfortunately. I don't claim to be an expert, but I know enough to be dangerous!

    Anyhow, this week I did something completely crazy and brought home a Davis treadle vertical feed machine... the belt is gone, there's a bit of rust here and there, and the finish is of course a lovely orange-peel texture on the bed of the machine. The good news is when I turn the hand crank the needle and foot move like they ought to, and the shuttle also.


    I'd like to make this old beauty shine again. I may be overly optimistic, but I think I can get her working again. Should I use this technique with orange-peel textured crackled finish? Or is there something I should do first to protect the remaining decals? I've cleaned off the head some with sewing machine oil and gently wiping with a soft cloth. I just really don't want to damage the decals. I know my chances of actually damaging the body are laughable, unless I did something evil and left it outside in the rain.

    I don't have a vast selection of old machines to practice on, so eventually my only choice will be to make a decision:
    jump in with both feet and see if cleaning it works OR leave it as-is with regards to the paint, and just work on getting the mechanics running smoothly. I want to make sure when I choose, it is an educated decision. Any personal experiences or links to more Davis-related resources greatly appreciated!
    Use my technique as described in this thread and you should have good luck it making your Davis shine
    Skip
    Glenn W. Cleveland

  16. #66
    Super Member CindyA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,245
    Name:  FW oval medallion.jpg
Views: 1943
Size:  460.7 KB
    I watched Muv's tutorial and she mentions metal poslish. Can I use metal polish on this medallion? It says (in part) "a century of sewing service, 1851-1951."

  17. #67
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Victorian Sweatshop
    Posts
    15,409
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by CindyA View Post
    Name:  FW oval medallion.jpg
Views: 1943
Size:  460.7 KB
    I watched Muv's tutorial and she mentions metal poslish. Can I use metal polish on this medallion? It says (in part) "a century of sewing service, 1851-1951."
    I want to know that too.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.

  18. #68
    Super Member Glenn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Huntsville, AL
    Posts
    2,550
    Blog Entries
    1
    Yes, you can polish this with brasso and it will be very pretty.
    Skip
    Glenn W. Cleveland

  19. #69
    Senior Member susansomethings's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    536
    You are awesome at this!!

  20. #70
    Super Member Christine-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    1,262
    Be careful when putting Brasso on the medallion, you don't want to remove the blue paint from the Centennial badge.
    Bernina 640, Singer 201-3, Singer Centennial 15-91, Tin Lizzie 26" long arm

  21. #71
    Senior Member redbugsullivan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Western Washington State
    Posts
    554
    Blog Entries
    6
    I am excited to see how that Davis turns out! It is a PERFECT candidate.

    Dan, I understand your position. Skip's method is amazing and I've used it multiple times. In fact, I'm going to try and save what is left of the finish on my Alvah National (my very first treadle). On the flip side, I am using non-traditional finishes on the woodwork. Wipe-on poly is my finish of choice because I know life happens! None of my cabinets ever have decent finishes when I get them. Sometimes, I spend more time gluing down lifting veneer than working on the head!

    Like Skip says, make your own tutorial! I'm not very skilled with metal/paint finishes so I'll be sticking with the French Polish method for the heads. It will be very interesting to contrast the two methods. Right now, I'm avoiding buying machines with cracked paint. Could you start with one of those?
    Annette

    There is no fireside like your own fireside.

  22. #72
    Super Member Christine-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    1,262
    Name:  1.JPG
Views: 1310
Size:  418.0 KB

    This is my 201k. The ebay auction showed the paint was cracked, but it's not as bad as I had expected. The shellac is cracked some but it's not down to bare metal. In fact, the cracking is minimal and I'm not going to do anything to it.

    Notice the light is attached to the back! Yipee! I'm going to rewire the entire machine, the wiring is in bad shape. And then I'll put it in a table.
    Bernina 640, Singer 201-3, Singer Centennial 15-91, Tin Lizzie 26" long arm

  23. #73
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,072
    Glenn

    Did you use gold paint or gold leaf to repair the decal? What brand of gold paint or gold leaf? Your machine is beautiful. I now have 23 machines all in different stages to refurbish and your instructions a very explicit. Thank you

  24. #74
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,072
    Our Lowe's store carries evaporust but it is in with cleaning supplies near the naval jelly.

  25. #75
    Member KittyKat77's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    19
    I am trying to fix up my Davis, and it is looking better... the black areas no longer have that icky sticky orange peel texture, BUT, some of the areas with the decals seem stubborn, and despite going very slow and cautious, I ended up with a bit of silvering. It may be the damaged shellac is adhered so strongly to the decals that anything affecting the shellac will damage the decals. Talk about a catch-22. It's made me nervous to continue!

    I have been focusing instead on cleaning and rust-removal of the metal pieces.

Page 3 of 27 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 13 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

SEO by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.