Captain Bedworthy

Hi all. For my level of exp. so far restored a 15-91 (easy) and rebuilt the tension and replaced bearing washer in a 925 (not easy).
This Gritzner/Domestic came to me after sitting idle in a cabinet for thirty or more years.
Loving the design, and the idea of the dual needles and dual tensioners.
I see others of this model with toothed red drive belts. Would like to do that instead of the slippy black rubber ones it has as spares. Is there any standard source for things like the wheel race and the motor pulley?
Also I am really sensitive to kerosene. Will odorless paint thinner work as well to loosen the hardened oil or to I need a HEPA mask? Some interior part is really stuck hard and cannot turn the wheel without effort and a 'clunk'. Took off the motor and back plate and no corrosion inside. Just flood it?
Looking to disassemble the tensioner also, it has some rust starting. It looks like a block, is there anything behind it I shouldn't touch?

All wisdom appreciated.

SteveH

I STRONGLY recommend that you clean it with sewing machine oil ONLY. It really will work, just be patient. My collection is ALL machines that are 115 years old or older and if it can clean them, it can clean this.

Most of the harsher cleaners can effect the pain and decals adversely.

sewbeadit

I can't help you, but welcome and that is a really neat looking machine, hope you get it runninggggggggggggg soon.

DonnaMiller

Don't use paint thinner! There are other, thin, oils that will free the machine. In fact, there is even descented kerosene. I have seen it somewhere. I use TriFlow, bicycle oil for all my antique machines. Some free up stuck part with Kroil oil. Thinner will add nothing. Don't use penetrating oil unless you remove it and lube with a good sewing machine oil afterwards. Some use hair dryers for heat and GENTLY tap, tap, tap with rubber mallets.

Captain Bedworthy

Awesome, I am a cyclist too and have Tri Flow, which is an industrial banana oil. Very best for bike chains. Trivia: Banana oil can lubricate mated aluminum parts without binding. Have thick dowels and tack hammer, will persevere. Have used Goo Gone then singer oil on the exterior and it looks fine, no decals moving. Will re wire as well, has the oddest pedal I've seen. The thing I like best about it is all of Singer's international patents were in force and the Gritzner engineers had to figure out alternative builds for about everything on this.
Since I got all of your attentions, can the round belt be swapped for a toothed one? I see this elsewhere on this model but would have to change the wheel race and the motor pulley. Thanks again

SteveH

Note: Kriol is a penetrating fluid. Tri-Flo is a lubricant. Plain old Sewing machine oil really is your best bet for cleaning.

I agree, if you use Kriol (or the equiv), you should clean it up after the part is released an dif it is a moving part, use Tri-flo or oil as your lubricant.

I am SO not sure on the particulars of the newer machines, but it is my understanding that the toothed belts operate on the same pulley and wheel as the smooth belts

Cari-in-Oly

By all means get that rubber stretch belt off that machine, personally I hate those things. An orange lug belt is a better belt to use but my NSHO is a black V-belt that it would have come with originally would be the best thing for it.

Cari

Captain Bedworthy

Okay, well the race and pulley present flat (not 'v') so will try the lugged. Plenty I see on the auction site and I'll use what I have for measure. As I type wife is very satisfyingly binding her latest with the 15-91 full speed. So glad I found that. Thanks again, will post results when done.