Rocsew

Is it possible the stop motion washer got turned the wrong way? That will prevent the knob from tightening down properly. Is the handwheel spinning fast when the motor runs fast?

Irishrose2

No, the handwheel moves at about the same rate of speed as the machine sews - maybe only a little faster. The oddity is that when you loosen the handwheel, it turns and turns with seemingly, no stop. The machine is sewing okay now, but I question whether that jet plane whine is good for it.

leonf

Consider taking off the faceplate and oil the needlebar with all of it's drive train.

Irishrose2

Got it. I've been working on an itchy dog all day. A sewing machine will be a nice change.

Irishrose2

Did it and the machine seems quieter. A slight whine as it starts and it still need a slight nudge to start. I will have my son change the belt the next time he's here. There is some paint gone on the handwheel where the belt touches so it probably is too tight. Either that or it's an age thing. I'm thinking this is a 50s machine.

leonf

Have you oiled under the bed? Moving pieces there, too.

Mickey2

Keep on oiling and spend some time investigating all parts involved. Even machines we have had for years can have a missed spot. I remember a problem I had with my 99, it was the needle shaft. I hadn't spent enough time on the spot where the needle bar moves up and down in the cast iron part of the body. It took repeated applications of oil and running the machine for it too free up. The insident happened long after I first had it cleaned and sorted out. I don't know exactly what caused it, it happened after a flush out with a spray can oil and I suspect it was old dirt and grime gradually dissolving. If it's not flushed out quick enough in can turn sticky again. Some oils are better at this than others, but it's mainly about detecting oil points and getting oil where it needs to be and often enough.

Another spot often missed (for years) is behind the round plate in the back, make sure every moving joint where metal move against metal is well oiled. I know you have done this many times, but it still might be a minor thing like this. A good light is a must for these black cast iron machine, especially behind the face plate and the round plate in the back.

Still; ask your son if he can help you check the carbon brushes on the motor. These are the most common size for the motor belts, both for Singer motors as well as Japanese. Pfaff motors are perhaps a bit larger. You can easily measure it.

I hope you find something for aging hands and joints. The right exercise and perhaps a clever diet supplement can work wonders. A difficult screw is just the right job to ask someone for a bit of help.

Irishrose2

I oiled the bed when I oiled under the faceplate. I'm sure I did it a few years when I got this machine, too. I have not taken the round plate off and oiled in that area. Because the machine is heavy and near a wall, I guess I missed it. (When I did my 128, the cover fell into the machine and it had to stay there until my son came along to turned the machine up side down and shake the cover out - that was a heavy little machine).
My hands aren't terrible - I do have good supplements and and a wonderful massage therapist. They are jut 76 years old with several varieties of arthritis. I actually am very fortunate that they are as usable as they are.
Okay, off to remove the round plate. Thank you, everyone.

Mickey2

I don't think the lid can fall in on a 15, but be careful with the screw. This it shouldn't be a particular worry, but in theory a lot of thigns can happen. There are quite a few helpful blogposts on 15s; some of the nicest are on this blog; here and here, yet another one here.

On these I have had three issues that needed a few days of tenative care to be sorted out. I have had the stitch length stuck in one position regarless of the stitch length lever position. I inspected as well as I could, turning the hand wheel and observing parts. I tried to follow each part from the stitch length lever to the feed dogs. There are quite a few involved. The horizontal rods can need attention, and lots of good light to get at the tiny holes and joints where oil needs to go.

The other one was the sticky needle bar, and the third was a part behind the faceplate needed a bit of extra oil to smooth out. It can take a day or two for the oil to seep in and do it's work. Oil a bit everyday for a while if it's not running optimally. They need oil once or every other week, and more if you use the machine hours a day. Once you have a sticky or noisy machine it can take a bit more effort to get up to standard again. It's usually not difficult, you just have to do the job thoroughly even if it seems a bit tedious or even unnecessary (most of the time it's not).

Mickey2

Just to make sure; you really need to go over a machine on a regular basis, all plates off; faceplate, throat plate, the round plate in the back, bobbin case, even hook and race. If you use lower priced thread (like I some times do) surprising amounts of lint will accumulate in a short time. It's often very basic, but it needs to be done regularly and thoroughly. Oil once or every other week, more if you spend hours every day on the machine. It can sound a bit tedious to get an advice like this, but it pays off in the long run. If it's been left on its' own for a while it doesn't take long to make it run smootly again.