Macybaby

I'm also confident you can get this machine running again. The number on your throat plate is the serial number of the machine. You may be able to get an idea of the age with that, but I don't know if there is any database with Standard serial numbers.

Macybaby

more interesting info - this is about Standard Rotary machines, but the early style tension looks like it might be like yours - hard to tell though. In looking at them (and mine) I though you could replace your style tensioner with the newer style that has the spring as a part of the tensioner and not separate.

http://needlebar.org/main/survresult...rd1/index.html

mygrommi

Oh thanks so much for these answers! I will have more questions over the weekend.

Macybaby, where exactly is the back screw located that is the stop motion screw?

This machine was stored in a very bad environment. Most of the veneer is gone from the cabinet and I will remove the remainder. I can't put on new veneer, but I will fill spaces between the boards on the base wood and sand and paint the cabinet.

mygrommi

Macybaby

First off - this machine does not "stop motion" like a Singer, the hand wheel will ALWAYS turn the machine, unless you remove it. The "back screw" is the one you were referring to that is on the back of the flywheel, but off center. The one the white arrow is pointing to - I should have said " knob" as you don't turn the slotted screw, you turn the knob. If it won't turn, apply some sewing machine oil or tri-flow so it will.



When you loosen it, it releases the pressure on the second wheel - red arrow is pointing to.

The inner wheel (red arrow) is the "drive wheel" that the treadle belt runs on. So when you loosen the knob and run the treadle, it will move that inner ring, but the flywheel and rest of machine will not turn. That lets you wind the bobbin with the treadle belt without the rest of the machine moving, but you can't use the flywheel to hand wind the bobbin without the machine cycling too. I suppose of there is a bit of friction when you run the belt, you can always hold the flywheel in place to keep the needle still.

If you want to remove the flywheel - you loosen the two set screws (green arrows) they are what holds the flywheel firmly to the drive shaft (or what ever you call it in sewing machines).

mygrommi

What I really need now is a good closeup photo of the tension assembly from someone who owns a machine like this and a source for a new set spring which is what I think I will need. The needlebar link was invaluable in determining the maker of the machine, but I can't see the details of the tension assembly and the set spring close up in those photos.

Thanks again.

mygrommi

mygrommi

Cathy, many thanks for the great photo and explanation about the handwheel, stop motion screw different from Singer, etc. I would have never figured that out.

Sorry, but I have been calling the the tension check spring a set-spring by mistake.

I cleaned up some of the machine's parts yesterday and could not believe how much better they look with the rust removed. Attached is a photo of the parts I cleaned. The serial number had been totally hiding under the rust on the front throat plate.

Someone told me that they think my machine may date back to 1896. I have asked where they got the information. I have tried to find something online to attempt to date the machine, but have been unsuccessful.

Below is a link to something interesting on You Tube that I found. This lady has a Standard machine with the round bobbin and says her machine will stitch with a lock stitch and can be converted to a chain stitch. However, the tension seems to be the same as mine. Her video is not clear showing the check spring, but what is interesting is that her check spring was also broken when she got the machine. She pulled some of the wire out and fashioned her own loop. Before seeing this video, I had pulled my wire out some, but did not know if I could make a loop or not, so I left it alone. I am afraid I bent the wire a little in one spot where it wraps around the screw.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naqRhSqQIrc


I tracked down a Facebook page for this lady and sent her a message asking if she could send me a close up photo of the loop she made. I hope I hear back from her. I barely got a slight glimpse of the check spring in her video, but not nearly enough to see how she made the loop. This may be my best option if I can make a loop and get it in the right place.

Another interesting thing this lady said is that her handwheel turns "backwards" - in the opposite way a Singer does. I wonder if that has to do with the machine having the capability to do a lockstitch as well as a chainstitch.

I'm sure I'm not done asking questions about this Shapeleigh
machine, but I have a couple of other questions about converting a Singer 99 to a hand crank, so I will start another topic about that.

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mygrommi

Cathy, can you post a closeup of the tension assembly on the same machine that you posted the great photo of the hand wheel? Is that your machine or did you find that photo of the hand wheel online?

Thanks
Renea

Macybaby

Yes, that is one of my Standard machines. I'll post pictures when I get home, however mine is a newer style and the little spring is part of the tension- however I'm pretty sure they mount the same, so you could possibly put a newer tension with the built in spring and be done with it.

I have two Standard Rotary machines, a "stout" and a "slim" and both have the chain stitch adaptor so they can do both.

As to "backwards" that is actually how many of them work - Singer is sort of odd in they go the other way. Has nothing to do with the chainstitch, just how the internal linkage is hooked up.

I watched the video and that does look like the same as yours - I've seen others like that and basically there is a little eye at the end of your spring, and the tension is such that it stays to the top. I think with yours, the eye broke off and then it allowed your tension spring to unwind enough that there is not pressure on it holding it in the "up" position. I think this would be easy to fabricate - the main challenge is getting the correct amount of tension- it needs to pull any loose thread up out of the bobbin area, but not be so tight that it will cause it not to loop around the shuttle.

Based on your serial number, it is an earlier machine - my VS is a top tension, so no help there, and my Rotarys are later machines with an updated tension assembly.

mygrommi

Just wanted to report back that I found someone on the web who sent me close-up photos of the inside spring that is exactly like mine. Now I know what shape the loop on the end of the spring wire looks like. I think I can mKe a loop since it is just a plain little loop. I have been occupied with other things so haven't had time. My machine apparently is a badged machine that was made by the Standard Co. and someone else with access to a serial number date chart tole me it dates to approximately 1896.

Thanks for all the assistance and encouragement here on this board that I should be able to get this machine to operate. It will take me some time, but I now believe I can.

Renea