It would not be a 15 clone but it is a clone. Make sense?

There are some Compacs that are like this, and I'm thinking of a Bel Air Bantam too, though I don't remember if the Bantam takes a 66 or 15 bobbin.

Cari

It is an excellent 99 clone except for the differences mentioned earlier. The motor works, but had been rewired with a fat white cord I cannot abide, and the guy I send motors to thought rewiring again might cause damage. Besides the obvious hint in its name, the shipping charge on this one made it clear it was aluminum. This machine sews fine, and I thought it might amuse people at a sew day.

I do have a tan 'Dressmaker' 15 clone, but that's a very common one. Shiny and works great!

Dianne in Colorado

Dianne,

I too have a SEWMOR Featherlight. It's a good copy of the Singer 99K-10. Mine is one of my favorites.
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I didn't realize the main shaft is larger than the Singers. I'll have to check mine. Then again, I have a Chinese spoked hand wheel that's shaft bore is a bit on the large size. That might fit.

Rewiring the motor is no big deal. Your motor man just doesn't want to mess with a motor that someone else has worked on. They are fairly simple to rewire. I've done a number of them.
I believe the BelAir Bantam is the same machine just badged with a different name.

My Dressmaker 15 clone is a very pretty pastel blue.
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I've named it Smoky Blue cos the motor blows smoke when I use it. I don't worry about it cos if it does fail, I'll just fix it. I'm hoping it cleans itself out eventually. It runs so good I don't want to take it apart.


Joe

Class 66, I do believe.


Joe

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Here's my Bel Air Bantam. It takes a 15 bobbin; the one that came with the machine actually seems to be even a tiny bit smaller. I last used it with the ruffler foot, as shown.

The only issue I have with this very cute little machine is that I cannot 'set' the stitch length the way I can with the 201, making it difficult to get back to he same setting after a few stitches in reverse.

Has anyone found a work-around?


Sabine

Sabine,
can you wedge something under there to stop the stitch length?

I have the same problem with that style of stitch length lever. I've yet to find a suitable "stop" so the lever will return to the same place.

Joe

What all have you tried, Joe?

Miriam,

So far I've tried building a wooden wedge thing with a notch that would fit over the bottom of the slot. That worked to stop the lever from going to far down, but fell off when I raised the lever. I couldn't get it fitted right to stay put.

Haven't tried anything else yet. Still thinking on it.

Joe