I feel dumb, lol. I DID have the thread incorrect through the tensioner. I had it backwards! I got a magnifying glass today so I am finally able to look at everything in detail. However I am still having a problem with the upper stitch showing through the back. Via manipulating the upper tension, I can make the lower stitch show or not show through the front, but the upper stitch continues to show through the back, unchanged. I will try loosening the lower tension.

It took me some time to figure this one out. I had to read the instructions several times before I got it figured out. After you do it a few times it does get easier, especially when you recognize the "click" when it is properly threaded.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

@Mickey2: Thank you for the tip on using quilt fabric! It got me thinking about what fabric I was using in relation to the needle. I was using t-shirt type fabric with a 14/90 needle. At best I was able to get both threads showing through at the same time on both sides of the fabric. I found mention online that this can be caused by the needle being too big for the fabric. I switched to a fabric about twice the thickness ("Cozy Flannel"). Stitches were coming out a little better. I doubled the flannel layers to 4 and got the stitches looking correct on both sides. Pulling the layers apart, the two threads appear to be crossing in the middle, and neither stitch is showing through on the wrong side. I will be using the machine to sew through heavy faux-fur fabrics, so I am not it any rush to get thinner needles.

P.S. I noticed the PDF doc linked to on page 1 shows a different tensioner set up than my 153, with different instructions.

For thicker fabrics you might as well get a package of size 18/110, I use them regularly. 14/90 is a regular one too, as well as 12/80. I have sewn very fine cotton and slik, crepe de chin and chiffon being the lighters, but it's not often. There is a Schmetz needle in size 19/120, but not many sellers stock it.

Firm and not too light jersey is easy to work with. I'm not sure what you have. If it's light weight, with stretch or a viscose blend they can be more difficult. You probably need a microtex or ball point needle to get a good stitch on these. You can sew jersey on a straight stitcher, use french or flat felled seams, and two lines of stitches. It holds upj well and looks nice, but you will not get the stretchy seams we are used to on T-shirts.

You have to match thread weight and needle size well to get a good result too, and as you mention fine needles for fine fabrics. The stitching will look much better. For very sheer fabrics the locking of the two threads will show on both sides of the piece you are stitching on, it should be in the middle of the layers and still balanced. It's not often you get this, because the seams are usually folded over three times like a hem, binded with bias tape, or you have four layers of fabric like in a flat felled seam.

That crinkle finish is pretty durable. It's possible that brown on your rag is old cigarette tar, especially if it's worst on the right side of the machine. That's where they would park the ashtray. Rubbing compound works great for cutting through grime, but it's harsh on paint, so you have to be careful.

If it is just cigarette tar I will probably leave it, since it doesn't seem to be hurting anything. I dont want to risk hurting the paint surface to remove it. I am already very paranoid about harming the paint, lol

The new bobbin tire arrived today. I dremeled the old one off and it fell away in sad little chunks. The new tire slipped on without any trouble or effort. Perhaps the other person who had such a hard time with his was using a smaller tire? The one I bought was advertised as being for a 153. I tested it and it works fine.

I'm glad to hear everything is working out. I have had some problems after replacing bobbin tires; they are not always the exactly the same size and width, but they have slided on nice and snug. The one for my 201 was a bit on the tight side but the old one had sort of sagged and become too large and I guess it's all as it should be. The problem I am having now is to fine tune the bobbin winder adjustment; it pops up before the bobbin is filled; and I make sure never to overfill them in the first place.

Selljun, is the body steel or aluminum or magnesium.? Just curious.

I don't mean to sound rude, but, I don't think I'd use a vacuum on your Domestic just yet. Until you get all
accustomed to it and everything gets done that it needs. I did that once and had to go thru the vacuum dust
really close to find a screw. haha. I did find it tho'.

I think it might be iron? I heard some were made of magnesium but I don't know how to tell the difference. It is VERY heavy.