Dropped my featherweight tonight but I got lucky. Show me your bags! ;)
 

I've been carrying "Ronnie" in a reusable shopping bag - inside her case and wrapped in a custom made liner that packs her in quite tightly.

Tonight, the straps broke on the shopping bag and she crashed to the floor from hip height (the straps were over my shoulder). DH and I looked at the calamity (she may have dented the floor in the kitchen and a helmet visor in the stairwell next to the kitchen leapt off a shelf - apparently from fright when she hit too) and decided that her liner helped both her and the case survive the fall. (Think packing tightly for shipping)

So,... It would appear I need a new bag to carry her in. I've been poking around the internet looking at the bags others have made to carry the whole case and all but I was wondering what others here are doing.

My cousin is suggesting this with modifications to fit Ronnie's case:
http://www.sewthankful.com/ToteItBag...yNancyOta.html

I really like the straps all the way under and around but I wonder if the mesh is strong enough?

That pattern would work Tammi but I'd be more inclined to make it out of canvas or heavy duck rather than mesh. You could embroider cool stuff on the pockets. :cool:

Cari

Yeah, I've been plotting the embroidery part already. ;)

The duck or canvas is a good idea. I don't want a repeat of today. I think she tweaked my neck/shoulder during her escape attempt too!

I find carrying my FW in its original box too heavy for me. This is what I use:
http://www.221parts.com/bag1.html
Love it!

i use an inexpensive rolling tote i got fr walmart few years ago. enough pockets & room for wallet keys etc. had a nicer tote fr joannes, but it fell apart w/in a year. loaded w arthr issues, i can't trust my hands not to drop, shoulder totes can't be too heavy, pain not worth it. the fw case fits inside the tote to protect machine finish. case protected too.

Someone on Etsy or eBay makes quilted totes for the FW cases, with a zipper that lines up to the case lid so you can open the case and bag together.

I've been thinking of stealing the idea and making something similar. I like the idea of it being quilted for just that much more cushion, and that you can leave the case inside the bag at all times and still have full access to the machine.

Glad to hear that your Featherweight is ok! I have a small to medium sized rolling tote by Bluefig that I bought for my Janome DC2012 before I ever had a FW. I can fit the entire FW case it it, along with extension cord, travel iron, tools, even my folding Omnigrid mat/ironing surface (though that is testing the zipper's patience!). I call it my portable studio! What I can't fit in is the extension table I recently bought for the FW. If/when the tote gives out I will be replacing it with a larger one.

I'll be watching this.
I've been thinking of bags instead of hard cases for my portable machines. I will still need to build bases but sewing tote bags together may be a better plan than buying hardware and building matching lids for hard cases.
Glad your featherweight survived it's fall.
Rodney

***
*** Whatever you make - put the straps all the way under the bottom for support.
***

I'm withd Lovelyl
I have one also.
Then I found a nice carry all with the luggage type expendable handle to pull around and has pockets here and there
Zip ups as well from flea market for $5 recently. Perfect sized for my FW !!

I also would make the straps wider/stronger. I like the idea of straps that go under the bag as well.

I use a Tutto Serger case for my FW and an XL Tutto for my Janome when I have take her somewhere. On the other hand, I also have a nice pattern for a FW that I have yet to sew.

Hi everyone! Thanks for all the suggestions. For those who aren't carrying a hard case but have the machine in a softbag, do you find that the machine is more susceptible to scratches from the bag or bumps and bruises?

I've tried the rolling bags but here where it snows a lot in the winter, I've actually yanked the wheels out of alignment /off trying to pull something heavy through the snow, plus then it's all wet when you get it inside and drips everywhere. So for my immediate purposes, it doesn't work even though I love taking the weight off my shoulder with a rolling bag.

caspharm - which pattern is it that you have for the FW? I have come across a few but so far would modify all of them. Yeah, I'm being picky but that's probably because her tumble is so fresh in my mind.

I'll be poking around eBay and etsy for ideas for sure today - she did tweak my shoulder and neck yesterday so I'm slow moving today. Good day for gathering ideas. :)

Sewnoma, if you're still reading this, I'd love to see the one you liked!

Holly H, what you describe is part of why I try to carry smaller bags. ;) It's like a purse, the bigger it is, the more stuff I cram in it.

Rodney - yes, this is one place where it's possible that on a strictly materials basis that fabric might be cheaper than building with wood just because of the cost of hardware. Plus, I find that a bag bumping against my hip is easier to manage than something solid. I'll post what I manage to come up with, even if it means necromancering the thread.

I had a hard case for mine, but my cat kept clawing it. So, I bought another one and kept the cat away, but somehow he found it again. Finally my husband got me one just like this from an ad in a quilt magazine, but mine is black and says Featherweight on the side in white. My machine loves it and so do I, and the cat doesn't. I have been using it for years and it is great and still looks brand new. I like the soft corners. Mine holds the foot/cord, a surge protector and a long extension cord and the machine. There would be enough room for attachments also. I use it when I take classes and on vacation. I don't think I would trust one of the homemade tote bags.

I usually carry my FW in her case, but recently bought a Janome Jem 720 for classes and workshops. I'm thinking that FW case might work for it, too. Hmm. Will have to compare measurements for it. My big Janome goes into a wheely bag I got from Harbor Freight a year ago after reading about it on this board.

The pattern is "Featherweight case covers for the 221 by Jean Meier, but here is a link to someone who took that pattern and modified it (http://maggiemayquilts.blogspot.com/...herweight.html). The gal has a photo of the pattern. I like her modifications.

I've been really lucky. Our first cat (Gizmo, my little grey lady) used to scratch wood. She loved it. I have a couple of TV tables that have noticeably contoured legs now but she was gone before I sewed. Shadow likes her scratching post and only her scratching post and Stormi scratches carpet but never seems to do it any damage. It's like she combs it or something. Both of them love the sewing machines and never harm them. I do have to watch Shadow though, she sometimes licks the machines and seems to have a taste for TriFlow... *sigh*

Why wouldn't you trust a home made tote? With appropriate seams and straps that go around the bottom, I'd be comfortable with that. I've seen the quality of several commercially made bags and don't trust a lot of them as a result.


Thanks! I hadn't come across that one yet.

I'm really loving this one:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/2163829...r-your-vintage

KenZ, I came across this one too. It's a pretty basic design and easily modified. It will likely be what I start from. I always forget how to do the box bottom for instance. ;) Definitely straps underneath. I'm actually pondering an idea where they are inside the layers so they're not conspicuous but so that they're still there doing their job. Because I have a Long Arm and an industrial tailoring machine at my disposal, I should be able to get away with that as far as piercing power. I'm also thinking of one of the heavier threads for all of the stitches that will be the most load bearing - like the bottom seams.

They fit in a hard hanging file box too. I have a spare box I keep just for my FW if I need to store it/take it somewhere. The original case for mine looks nice, but makes my eyes water.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]533767[/ATTACH]

I love that! Most of the file boxes I have here are half sized but I'll take a peek the next time I'm in town! Have you tried Dave McCallum's light bulb trick to get rid of the smell in the case?

I use a Crop in Style navigator rolling case, not the XX large one. Thst is too big and the wheels are not as well placed as they are on the navigator
The original featherweight case fits nicely in the Crop in Style case. It helps protect the case from nicks and scratches. Also I don't have to worry that the handle will loosen or the latches pop open on the original case.
I found mine on Craigslist for $25. Seems as people change interest, more of the scrap booking cases are sold on Craigslist.

Tammi, hope your shoulder/neck is better today.

The one on Etsy is neat - with the lid separate wouldn't that make it harder to "conceal" the straps? I've also thought in addition to straps all the way around that I'm thinking that it would probably be better to have a solid bottom - rather than a seam in the middle of the bottom. I suppose if using directional fabric that it could be problematic.

I'm curious of the spacing of the straps on the tote. I think I've seen some closer toward the middle and some closer to the side. I can see that the wider spacing of the strap location would give a better surface for embroidery or pocket and might be better for over the shoulder straps. The luggage that I have seen (like for laptop bags) have clips on the ends of the bag for the shoulder strap. Seems like I have also seen straps are spaced a little narrower (about the width of the handle on the top of the case). Have any of you that have used the bags/totes have any comments about if you wish the straps were spaced a little wider or narrower for comfort and possibly the feeling of it maybe being a little wobbly?

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Measure your FW and then take the measurements with you to Walmart. I bought a nice padded cooler bag with outside pockets and lots of padding for about $13.00 a couple of years ago and it works wonderfully. Might cost a little more now.

Lots of options in this thread. I would trust a homemade tote, but depending on fabric, you might need flat felled type of seams with two rows of stitches that lock the edges of the pieces in. Bull denim or duck canvas might be the easiest. Strong nylon fabric and webbin is very strong too, but fraying and slippery, they need something extra to hold the seams in the long run. I don't have an overlocker and I sometimes have to fuzz a bit extra with edges and sturdy seams to get it strong enough.

ArchaicArcane - you found the one I was talking about!

I like her tote overall but I actually DON'T like the image of the FW on the outside. The shape and size is enough of a giveaway, I wouldn't want extra advertisement on the bag as to what's inside. Kind of like a big, "Hey look I'm TOTALLY worth stealing!!" sign.

Tammi you mentioned a light bulb trick for musty cases? Where do I find that info? I have a couple vintage cases now that could use some sort of help in the smell department.
Thanks,
Rodney

i keep one of mine in a case like this. I still put my other hand under it just because. Seems like a good fit. It's not "cute" though!!

I have a couple card board boxes for attatchments that reeks of cellar. Have you found anything that helps? I have them on a book shelf in a warm dry room, lid off and hope they will eventually air off sooner than later. It's been about a year now and it's much better, but still not quite there yet, not enough to close the lid on the boxes.

I'm thinking of filling the bottom of them with baking soda, and leave them in in a plastjc a couple of days, then replace it. I know it will air off eventually, but it would be nice to speed the process up a bit. It certainly doesn't get better by closing the lids and storing them away some where.

UV light bulbs helps with odours, but will lead to deterioration of the materials in the case, especially leather and paper. I might be something we regret later on. Ozon treatment cleans out smells, but I'm not sure if these old cases can handle harsh treatments like that. I think thats' what the UV bulbs produce, the temporarily split the oxygen molecules in the air, making ozon molecules.

No. I've got it stuffed full of newspaper and on a top shelf in the basement. Some magic day it will be ok... right? ;)

The machine itself is on a shelf in my sewing room.

I rarely trust any handle for more than a few seconds, I use them more for stability than anything else. On a sewing machine case I assume they are more for lifting the lid than a long term carry.

The hard plastic case is good for slightly damp storage/taking it places in the rain and making it stackable on a rolling cart. Might work on a motorcycle as well. ;) I wonder if contact paper could make them nicer.

Make sure that you have the straps go all the way around the bag, from top to bottom.
That way the straps cannot tear loose from the bag.
Sharon in Texas

Thanks Janey, yes - my neck and shoulder are a little better today. I will be taking Ronnie out again tonight to another sewing group so we'll see how load-bearing the shoulder feels like being. Since we don't have snow yet, I might load her onto a rolling cart I have to save some wear and tear.

The lid looks like it's still attached at the back of the tote. I haven't really hit on a full design yet, it's still marinating. I find if I don't bug it too much for the first day or so, it often pretty much hops into the pan by itself when it's ready. :) I may do it with the straps outside anyway. Thinking about it, even the mesh bag my cousin suggested would be strong, since the load carrying capacity is coming from the straps and the rest of the bag is mostly stabilization. Hiding the straps was partially for aesthetics in general and partly so that if I chose to embroider it, it was irrelevant where the straps were. That's mainly because my patterns often evolve as I'm building them and if I've embroidered a panel already, I'm a little stuck.

I was thinking of stiffening the bottom, and either a single seam or a perimeter seam. I hadn't really decided yet but was thinking on the same lines as you are. I probably also wouldn't bother with the plastic bottom that the etsy bag uses. The straps that bag uses look like cotton - moisture would just wick up the straps.

I feel like the further apart the straps are, the better the weight distribution would be or seem anyway - of course also paying attention to where the latch mechanism is too. I considered putting the straps on the sides instead of the front and back but I like the stability that comes from pulling the bag into you, instead of creating a fulcrum with the bag. I have a cooler bag that hangs with the straps on the sides and it always feels like it's tipping one way or the other.

I have to drive past the Walmart tonight and will have Ronnie in the car with me. I might just stop and try out a few bags. ;)

Flat Felled -like jeans if I recall my stitches? I agree. I know someone with a patcher and may be able to talk him into doing some of the webbing seams if I get into trouble. I think with the webbing stitched all the way up the bag though, it should hold pretty well, especially if the seams aren't in line with the bottom seam (another selling point for a perimeter seamed bottom)

I see that you mean but I figure it this way: When I take her sewing - everyone already knows what she is and I'm always with her. The groups I tend to go to, I know the ladies quite well too. I suppose if I were going to a class where I didn't know anyone, it might be different. I was thinking though, that I might embroider a design I like on it or put some of my long arm quilting on it with a variegated thread. Like a whole cloth made functional.

I was gonna watch the video again and type it out but Google saved me. Someone else already typed it out. :)
Here is the process he suggests: https://m.facebook.com/notes/singer-...4015585316683/


Definitely a good idea to hold it underneath. I've had one of those boxes pop open when I thought I'd latched it tightly but hadn't. You can also use that double sided velcro and wrap a strap or two under the bottom of the box and do it up on top. I do that when I carry a case without a bag around it.

Just the old standbys for cardboard - activated charcoal, kitty litter, newspaper, baking soda, etc. Some say setting it outside will do it but that introduces your UV problems again.

You can also wipe the cardboard down with a weak bleach solution. That might kill any bacteria or mold contributing to the stench. I'm guilty of throwing the boxes out if they smell really bad.

I would be concerned about the newspaper gathering moisture and compounding the problem. I'd love to know if Dave's solution works for you.

This is exactly what I usually tell anyone who I see with a vintage case. I don't trust them either. I've seen the aftermath of a machine coming out the bottom too. Yep, I've carried those boxes on a motorcycle, and I have had Ronnie on a motorcycle too - she was in a soft bag inside my hard luggage on the back of the bike at that time.

Well, I think you could decoupage that plastic case and no one would bat an eye at you for doing it.

Definitely. That's what got me into this situation to begin with. I should have looked harder at that bag but it was built for motorcycle gear - I thought it would be more than strong enough. I assumed and it bit me in the rear.

Yes, those used on jeans. I've noticed they are standard on work clothes that need the extra strength, any type of shirt, and finer evening wear made in chiffon, organza and similar fabrics where extra enforcement of the frabric and shaping is an advantage. I've seen it used on unusual fabrics like silk-acetat blends too. Lately I have developed a fascination for different seam types, but I've never heard of perimeter seams? I picture googeled it but nothing useful turned up. There's serveral ways about it though, I'm sure you find something that suits the pattern.

If you use handles of webbing, sturdy seams and clever construction it should hold plenty. Single minimal seams look nicer, but where it needs the streangth, I have gone for stitching a square with a cross inside, or just a lot of forward and reverse in places. Top stitch thread or extra strength can be a must.

Best of luck :- )

Sorry, that's the way I think of the seams. I'm sure most of the terms I use are my own - I am largely self-taught after all. ;)

Perimeter seams - seams that join the 4 sides of the "box" to the base - as opposed to the main seam down the center of the bottom like a box you fold out from flat.

I've seen some people stitch a seam then press it open and then top stitch on both sides. That seems to me to be decorative - one set of threads to hold the seam. I was thinking I could do a sort of "cheater's" flat felled seam by pressing to one side and top stitching both sides of the seam. The stitches on the one side would be decorative, but the stitches on the seam side would be extra strength.

I plan to match my thread to the webbing really well and stitch the crap out of it! As best I can tell, it's a lot like uh,.. women's foundation wear. The band(s) on the bottom does 85% - 90% of the work, the rest is for stability. :D

I purchased one of the canvas bags from Land's End when they had a sale and free shipping. I don't recall the size, but I do know that the construction and materials will wear like iron.

In the interim, you might consider making a slip-over quilted cover to protect the case. Someone on Etsy made mine in a beautiful Amy Butler print. The cover slips over the top (think toaster cover) and case handle is exposed for carrying. Good luck!

I bought a bag on wheels to cart my sewing machine around in. It is low to the ground and will fit a FW and many accessories. Joann Fabric sells them and with a coupon I spent a paltry $35 for it and there are several other storage bags that come with them. It is about twelve years old and still wonderful. I got my moneys worth.
peace

Hey Kay, I did see those covers. The problem I have with them is that vintage handles and cases should really not be trusted for carrying. I've seen the aftermath of a machine coming out of the bottom and have had several cases where the handle was either punched through the top or the surrounding area was so damaged from the weight that it wasn't possible to perform an attractive fix at all. I have seen a couple of totes in very attractive fabrics that are basically that cover turned upside down - that I'm all over. ;)

I so wish I could live somewhere that I could use something like that year round. I just do too much damage to them in the winter trying to drag them through snow. :(

That's sensible - for me, when I take my machine places I'm usually taking it along on work trips or vacations so it's passing through hotels and the hands of hotel staff. I recently had to check my baggage early at a hotel and I was nervous the whole time because my FW was just sitting there in its case in some room...I didn't have a key for the lock at that point (I do now) and I was worried someone would see it and know what it was and help themselves to some of the more expensive parts. Probably not a necessary worry as it was a nice hotel (and nothing did happen to it) but even in nice hotels, sometimes people aren't honest. So if I can make it look like something boring I would feel better about it! Those little black cases are SO distinctive if you are in the sewing machine world.

I would want to embroider something like "C-Pap" on the outside. Nope, not a cute little FW in here, just a boring breathing machine...nothing to see here, move along...

I too, have an inexpensive roller bag from Michael's that was on sale. I think it was for scrap booking but fits my Annie just fine.

Yes, that totally makes sense. You could take the bobbin case with you if you have to leave it somewhere.

The other thing I'd like to mention is that these machines - even in their boxes - are small enough to just take the whole thing. If they want it, they'll take it. The only thing I really lock mine for (again, knowing where mine goes) - is to help ensure that the latches won't pop open while I'm transporting her either to a bag or into both hands. Sure throws DH for a loop when he tries to help set her up and the latches won't pop. ;)