Got any Tool Tips?
 

I am ssssssssooooooooooo wimpy... I have had quite a bit of trouble with stuck stuff lately. I got mechanics gloves to help get a balance wheel off a stuck Singer 500 but I had to borrow my DH's hands to get it off - I think he had to take the rest of the day off and nurse his sore hands, arms & back... but the gloves worked.
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Then I've had other smaller stuff I couldn't get any grip on so I found a bike inner-tube in the garage and cut a section out of it. I put it over a stuck thumb screw and used curved beak vice grips to get that off - I just don't like the idea of tearing anything up.

Then I had a couple stuck throat plate screws - I found a T shaped ratchet screwdriver with an extension and it takes the little screwdriver tips AND has a magnet - found at Harbor Freight. WOW it has leverage. I broke the screws loose with it and then used the little tips to get the screws out.

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Please feel free post your tool ideas here.

I prefer using this gunsmithing set over hunting for the proper size loose screwdrivers. For low clearance like difficult throat plate screws I use a proper fitting bit and a 1/4" wrench. Like Miriam mentioned, a variety of vise grips with rubber or leather protectors is indispensable and one of my most frequently used tools.

Jon

I'm listening intently to this one. I love tools almost as much as sewing machines, but my DH always steals my tools and I'm forever looking for them, broken, or not. Maybe getting a gunsmithing set might make him think twice next time he goes to lift one of my needed tools. He'll really start wondering what I'm up to then. :)

~ Cindy

I also search for screwdrivers that are narrow and thin... Too wide and too thick don't work well for me. I also have a set of those gunsmith screwdrivers but I don't love them as much as that T shaped screw driver. I should see if the bits fit it. I also have the little box wrench but some times there is not enough Egor in me to get it to turn on the throat plates.

I thought of another tip - no not a sledge hammer... unless YOU have tension problems in your own belfry...
A long time ago my DH had a magnetic sign on his truck - well things happen and I ended up with the sign stashed somewhere although bits and pieces were cut off here and there. Glenn made a comment about a sheet of magnet on the bench so now most of it is on my bench - magnetic side up - it catches screws some times - well a lot of times. It is very easy to take something off the machine and line it up on the magnet sheet - I know it will pretty much stay put if it sticks to the magnet at all. if I could just find that little stray tension end screw I lost before I thought about that magnet sheet... no bigger than the head of a pin........ I went to a place that sells sign materials to buy the magnet sheet.

Don't forget a very important tool----a digital camera that can take really good close up pictures! I don't start to do anything without it charged up and ready.

Good tips! Thanks Miriam.
Rodney

I use Chenille for cleaners. Our old shop had a very large stock of the old style Chenille Stems (pipe cleaners) in 2 or 3 diameters, as well as some Bump Chenille (diameter changes back and forth several times along the stem) when we took over the shop. Chenille isn’t all that popular right now, so I use them a lot for cleaning out small holes such as screw holes, the center of the upper tension stud, the center of a class 15 bobbin case, feed dog teeth, etc. In the race area of a vertical hook, I bend a loop in the end of one and use the loop to clean lint out of the inside, up under the lip. The hook doesn’t snag Chenille like it does a cotton swab when cleaning around it.


Some Chenille has very limber wire that stands up to flexing fairly well, so with one of those, I make a hook in one end and feed it in and around the presser bar and needle bar inside of the head to clean them using a see-saw motion to rub up and down the bars. Basically, wherever a cotton swab could be used, I generally use Chenille to avoid leaving cotton stands behind on protrusions. Larger holes can be cleaned by folding the Chenille to multiply the strands to make the diameter larger. I save the cotton swabs for mopping out old grease, and surplus oil when I get one in that has been drowned with oil trying to solve a tension problem or the like.


I apply my Tri-flow grease using a Turkey Basting syringe that has the end cut off on an angle with an Exacto Saw, and I have my Singer Sewing Machine Oil in a Disposable Diabetic syringe (with the longest needle available at my Pharmacy), then reload them as needed. The oil will distort and ruin the rubber plunger in about 4-6 months (not so with the grease), and have to be replaced with a whole new syringe. I don’t alter the tips of the diabetic needles, so they are treated with the utmost care and the needle cover replaced immediately after each “shot” of oil. I load the basting syringe by removing the plunger, squeezing grease into the basting syringe out of the grease tube, and then replacing the plunger. Then I remove the tip, press the plunger, and work the air bubbles out with a broom straw. The grease can be dispensed in very small quantities this way, so each filling lasts for a very long time. For the oil, I remove the oil bottle cap, insert the syringe needle into the bottle with the tip of the needle in oil, and draw the oil into the syringe with the plunger. Need to go slow, because oil is thicker than most injected medicines, and the needle hole is very small. If I get air bubbles, I’ll simply wait until they decide to come out. I reload my oil syringe frequently since it holds a small quantity of oil. If drawing slow and the shaft of the plunger pops loose from the rubber plunger, it’s time to break out a new syringe.


CD in Oklahoma

I thought of another one. I found a whole pack of 100 disposable eye lash brushes - those get in some real cracks when you are trying to get lint out. They do not hold up real well - pipe cleaner might do as well.

I use the Chenille ALL The time, But I use the ones with the stiff bristles worked into them. Oil ports, tiny passageways, I bend them in to a crank shape, double the end over and "thread them into threaded screw holed to clean out the threads.

I use a rechargeable electric tooth brush to work my polish (I use a paste called Wenol) onto uneven surfaces like screws.

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screwholding drivers, the upper two, wedge open into the screw slot. Sometimes getting them back in is as hard as getting them out!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]467804[/ATTACH] A little lathe that will work on metal, as well as wood and plastic, part of a past obsession. Great for repairs, fabricating and modifying. Here seen on a bearing race for a Davis NVF shuttle pivot arm bearing race.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]467807[/ATTACH]Things to cut shape and bend springs, clips, etc.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]467810[/ATTACH]cheap calipers, and engineers scales

I would love to have a lathe! :) I think we have the same calipers. They're invaluable. Besides the usual - feeler gauges, screwdrivers, etc. These would be my favorite "tools":

My Lazy Susan - You can see (and hear it) in the video I posted in the 201 tension problem thread. I use it extensively for almost every machine. On a day when I've wrenched my back (like today) it's invaluable. I only had to pick the machine up to put it on the table and to take it off and put it back in its cabinet. Every other time I spun it. :)
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My favorite screwdriver - It's a MegaPro? I don't know if the tips are hollow ground or not, but they're very "blocky" and an extremely good fit for most screws. I don't strip things with these ones and the bits are only a couple of dollars at the Nut and Bolt places. Usually this screwdriver has a piece of tubing over the shank to protect the paint on the machines too. The magnets are sanity savers ;) :
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This is one half of the kit I take to a local shop where I work on their machines. The other half contains the usual screwdrivers, popsicle sticks, needles, flashlights, paint brushes, syringes, hemostats, pliers, etc. The "greenie" in the middle of the case - about 4 - 5" of pool noodle. I use it to prop machines on so the light doesn't get bashed, or I don't have to rest the machine on its paint. You'll see it in the background of nearly any shot of a machine on my bench. The flexible extension (in the orange case) is a life saver as well. I use it most for the throat plate screws lately. Guitar Picks - for prying apart plastic pieces on newer machines - like the sergers - without leaving marks. Flannel rags for "environmentally friendly" clean up or test sew fabric in a pinch. Coins for loosening the motor caps.
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A flex neck screw driver!! http://www.amazon.com/ARTESIA-TOOL-F.../dp/B001CWHU94 This is not the exact set up i use but It's one i have that is similar. I have one that can attach to an electric drill. Ya know, for that extra UmPh! lol I also have a green screwdriver i found some where a long time a go that actually fits almost all of my machines.

Rigged this up for testing motors that have short pigtails and an AC plug. Or I can put one on them temporarily.
Could be even fancier, but I used thrift/recycle components. This way I don't need a foot feed, and can leave it running part throttle for a bit to let a drop of oil work in or, check the speed.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]468969[/ATTACH] It is basically an AC pigtail wired to a plastic outlet box, with a duplex receptacle, and a light dimmer. (yes you can use those with this type of motor) Also doubles as a dimmer for the lamp in the work room, er uh "guest room".
Another doo-hickey made from thrift/recycle found photo enlarger, is a stand for my digital camera. It comes with a built in lamp, and you can adjust the height, and angle of the camera. Its base is also a nice white backdrop.
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I have a box and foot control mounted to one of my benches but I never thought of that dimmer. I like that a lot.

Dentist tools You can buy inexpensive ones at Harbor Freight. They are the best for getting into tight places and for safely removing stuck on grease. I also seem to use a lot of artist brushes.

The dimmer switch idea can also regulate a foot control if you want consistent speed.

A tooth pick works for tight places and won't cause any burrs. I have some kind of joined together chip sticks - I wrap a little rag around to get in tight places. I also have some hemostats to pull out threads or just clamp something in place or get in a tight space with a little rag.

I keep an old empty ketchup bottle in Wilbur's tools so he can blow out lint on the old machines.

><<<an AC pigtail wired to a plastic outlet box, with a duplex receptacle, and a light dimmer. (yes you can use those with this type of motor) Also doubles as a dimmer for the lamp in the work room, er uh "guest room". >>>>

Jim, Could I wire an old foot control minus the return spring between the pig tail and box and have a limiting controller? I'm a mechanic, not a sewer and with some machines I have trouble controlling the speed. With the extra controller in line before the return springed machine's controller I could limit the top speed of the machine's controller, correct. I have an extra old controller and like you I salvage and repurpose.

Bamboo skewers are better than toothpicks. At least for me they are. I'm out too.

I NEED THE POOL NOODLE. That's good thinking.

Vridar yes you could, but you might loose some low end torque depending on the type of circuitry in the dimmer. although I haven't actually tried it yet.

Tammi, Love the lazy Susan and the pool noodle ideas.

Probably, but the idea is to be able to "floor" the machine's foot pedal without the machine running away with me. And, actually I'll be using an old resistance-type foot control in the pig-tail to the electrical box, not a dimmer switch. I'm going to recycle an old foot peddle upon removing the return spring.

one of my old foot controls has an adjustable stop, beieve it was becsuse they might not want from and wear on the converted from treadle heads. I like the dimmer though for testing a motor, can leave it running at a constant med speed.

With the spring that returns the pedal to off removed, I'll also be able to adjust to a predetermined controlled resistance. Just a matter of what's available and individual adjustments to fit each of our needs.

It's a great tool! The looks on people's faces when I pull it out of my bag is priceless too. :)
I took it with me today when I went to look at an industrial, and used it to tip the machine back and the gal goes "What's that!?!" It also cushioned the motor when we put it in the truck and I officially upped my machine count again... *sigh*

I love this!! My little brain is just chugging away looking for a good way to use this with a singer machine (which is most of what i have) too .... I think it can be done and I would love it for a couple of things: 1. working on them 2. teaching people to FMQ an not have to worry about the speed while they get the hand motion....

That's a great idea! I have the enlarger, but am not quite at the point where I want to disassemble it, despite the fact that I haven't used it in a few years.

Jim,
I got DH to wire up a box for me with a foot control pedal. My cheap Dremel now has variable speed with a foot control! WOW! AND I can plug in a sewing machine I'm working on.

glad that worked out 4 ya miriam! It also doubles as the dimmer to my incandescent lamp when not used otherwise. It would be beneficial, though i haven't tried it yet is to use a GFCI outlet even tho it's ungrounded. The Gfci will trip pretty quick for an imbalance like a short. Please DO NOT take anything Im saying here as gospil. AC can kill, and a qualified electrician can advise you. Also do research online. At the very least a 1.5 A fast blow fuse would be good

Inline Rheostat to Increase Resistance of Foot Controller
 

I'm rigging up a rheostat to have available for whatever purpose. But, again, I am thinking of placing it in series before a resistance speed controller to limit maximum speed. This one I'm working on has the power supply cord and two outlet box common to this type controller.The re-worked controller will control only the "motor" outlet unless I decide to rewire to control both outlets. Notice I had the old controller marked in the parts bin as N/G. I've tested it and believe it will work. I will remove the return spring under the foot lever so I can manually set it at a particular resistance. The screw on the duplex box is even present. ready to screw onto the underside of my work table. Voila![ATTACH=CONFIG]470078[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]470080[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]470079[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]470081[/ATTACH] Jim's Caveat - "Please DO NOT take anything Im saying here as gospil. AC can kill, and a qualified electrician can advise you. Also do research online." At the very least a 1.5 A fast blow fuse would be good" I agree, unless one knows about electricity, leave it to others who do.

you're planning on having a cover over that rheostat guts, right? unless you live alone... ;-)

Oh, yes. Thought I'd posted enough pictures without posting one of it back together. Really, I think I know what I'm doing. I may even extend the teat that marries with the foot lever so I can control it by hand without the foot control.[ATTACH=CONFIG]470100[/ATTACH] Final product. Still may add a lever on the side and remove the foot lever for better control.

ya could put an adjustable stop screw on your control if this doesnt perform like you want... I know i said that and I'm sure YOU know what you're doing, i just try to err on the side of caution for others. I got overconfident the the other night on an AC plug and a stray strand found its way across and popped the c/b. 1am might have been part of the cause tho...

Rockler Thread Detective
 

Finding correct sized and threaded screws and bolts is very trying. I salvage most parts and throw in a parts bin. Finding the correct bolt for a project is difficult. These sets of Thread Detectives may be of help. If one has a bolt to match maybe he/she can assure a match by enlisting the aid of these ---

http://www.rockler.com/thread-detective-screw-gauge

We need one just for sewing machines!

I found a 'tool' in a box of sewing junk. I think it used to be a crochet hook - I almost threw it out. Someone sharpened it to a nice point. I use it often. Tooth picks work for places that would scratch but that old crochet hook comes in handy.

It would be huge! the manufacturers didn't confine themselves to modern standards for Fine and Coarse. Whatever they wanted, they made, no standards. Usually they seem to at least have stuck with an even number of threads per inch. I wind up usings standard and metric thread gauges and my calipers to figure out what comes closest, and see if it will fit. What we need is some enterprising person to be willing to make small runs of these sizes. The other alternative, which I don't really want to use, is drill them out and tap for helicoils, then you can use standard fasteners, but that isn't a cheap solution either, except if you're set up for #6 and #8 screws, you can cover a lot of bases.

Rodney, How'd that 2 stage foot control work?
Gotta go back to working on taxes, ughh

removing broken off screws - tip
 

Because this comes up, more often than anyone would wish... So the screw head broke off flush. It's a cast iron machine (not so easy for an aluminum 201 or 301, you would need to find someone with an EDM machine at a machine shop).
At my local hardware/lumber yard, which is an Ace franchise I believe, they have left handed drill bits, which are one way of removing broken screws. The trick is, to get a centered start on the hole. Using a Dremel style grinder with a pointed (Harbor Freight sells diamond tip mini grinding points) stove, level of the top of the screw enough to start a center hole. Put a little divot in for your drill bit to start with, then, using a drill press, most likely (unless you are super steady and a sure shot) drill down with the left hand drill bit. This may actually break the screw remnant free and start pulling it up. Now the smallest left hand bit they had, was probably good for a #6 screw, not sure. But I'll bet McMaster-Carr or someone else sells ones that are smaller.
I noticed they carried one uncommon thread tap, I believe it was #6-40 which is the size of Singer needle plate screws. If they had a die, one could make some screws, if rather codgy looking ones.

I have an easy out but getting the really small broken screws out is very much a challenge - a lot of the easy out bits aren't really small enough.

removing screws Part @
 

And it turns out that there IS a source for threading dies for some of those odd sewing machine threads.
http://www.irwin.com/tools/taps-dies...screw-dies-hcs . Irwin is the brand at my Hardware store, that's why there was a unusual sized one there.

Left handed drill chart size and cost http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/hanson.html

youtube for using a left handed drill with a lovely accent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYvaPbX1sT4

another type, http://www.rockler.com/micro-grabit-...bolt-extractor

The next thing, almost forgot, and even better if I could remember what it's called, oh yeah "Spin-It-Out" looks VERY promising!! http://www.amazon.com/Eazypower-8268.../dp/B000HE9VZY . The HS had them in individual pkg also, the smallest one, my be on my shopping list.
Cheers!!

Still, the smallest one doesn't always make it.