Help with my "New" Singer 201
 

My new to me Singer 201 needs new wires.
I can handle that!! But wait----
But I need help in removing the motor.

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I have the adjusters manual but it is for very early machines. This one is a 1940 model.
I took the screws out but the motor and housing won't budge. Is there something I am missing, like do I need to take off the drive nut on the end of the shaft? It seems to be holding the housing of the motor?? In the instructive stuff I find online, the housing looks flat with a hole, this one seems to have a collar on it??
Anyone else have this problem??
Thanks for all your help in advance, I read your posts everyday and have learned so much already, Yes, a Great Big Thank YOU!

Ethel

Ethel,

I don't know if my son could help or not, but I'll have him take a look when he gets off work. He gets off at 10:00 p.m. and home about 11:00 p.m. He recently removed the motor on my 201 and completely re-wired (except for the coils).

Jeanette

Hi,

This is Ethel again, Whooopee!! I managed to get the motor off. I had put some triflow between the motor and machine thinking it might be stuck and I think it helped and I got the motor off. Next question, how do I get to where the wires need replacing. They are bare right up to the crumbling old rubber socket?

I don't know what happened to Jennetts reply, but yes I could use you son's help.
Thank you!

Ethel

Ethel, my son (who was a sewing machine mechanic for 14 years) doesn't get off work until 10:00 p.m, and will be home about 11:00 ET (about 8:00 p.m. your time) I'll have him take a look and pm you!

Jeanette

Here's part 1 of a multi-part how-to guide by Rain. It's probably the best tutorial out there for it: http://vssmb.blogspot.com/2011/12/ho...rt-1-wire.html

I'm sure it's linked in the resources thread, which is always a good place to start when looking for information.

This is Phillip.

The tutorial listed is much less complicated than the procedure that I used on Mom's 201 motor. I un soldered the brush wires and very carefully removed the field coils from the motor core (Not the armature !!!!!!!!). Then I removed all of the original wrapping tape from both coils and replaced the supply leads with high temperature wire rated at 250 degrees C. After this I re wrapped the coils with fiberglass cloth tape, re installed the coils, re soldered the wires to the brush holders, and finished assembling the motor. As far as the eyelets at the end of the leads I found some brass grommets (sewing notions) to make the loops. I wrapped the stripped ends of the wires around each grommet and used grommet / snap pliers to compress them. Once this was done I tinned the wire and grommet with solder.

I will state that my procedure is not for the squeamish. It would be best to use the procedure linked here instead of mine

This is Phillip.

The terminal connections on the 201 and 221 are the same as long as they both use a double lead cord.

On the connector block the lead from the switch connects to terminal 1. The lead from the light connects to terminal 3. The motor leads connect to terminals 2 and 3.

I would recommend searching youtube and google for Dim Bulb Tester. I collect old Zenith table radios that seem to find me and I always use this device to test them for my safety and prevent possible damage to the radio. I would recommend using a dim bulb tester with the vintage machines. A 100 watt incadescent bulb in the tester would be a starting point and then step up to as much as 300 to 500 watts of light bulbs.

Good advice Phillip.

Thank you for letting me know that the grommet and eyelet is a known way to end wires. Whoever rewired my machine before me used a brass grommet too but did not tin it. I was not sure whether that was acceptable or not.