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Wow!! Terrific job Glenn! How long did the whole process take you?
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Deb it took about 6 weeks to get this far. Most of the time was waiting to get things unstuck with Blast Buster and the soaking of parts in evapo rust and cleaning them. Normally it takes about three days but this was the worse case of rust I have seen on a vintage machine.
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Not a problem, Glenn. I have those Senior Moments way too much! ha Thanks for answering all our questions.
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Originally Posted by DonnaMiller
(Post 7271142)
If the spots are tiny, then you can clean down to the metal, spray auto primer in a small container and paint on with a very small artist paint brush. Then paint with Rustoleum black paint, either spray or can. I spray it into a small, disposable container and paint it on and feather the edges. Then I use Carnuba wax to protect it. If the whole bed is bad and the decals can't be saved, then I sand, steel wool, prime with the appropriate metal primer, then spray it. From there, you can get new decals or leave it alone. I use the wax rather than a clear coat, but all of this is up to you. It saves the machine for perhaps a full restoration later. White Godzillas have aluminum castings, so require a VERY different primer, which is available at WalMart and white in color, but it takes paint well and so far so good.
Originally Posted by Glenn
(Post 7271171)
Christy, I taped off the arm and primed and painted the entire bed. I used automotive gloss black and primer from my local auto store. Rustoleum. I use the brass brush it is softer than the steel one. You can use the steel one with no problems it will remove rust faster. Yes spray cans.
Yes Rodney it is a cent. |
OMG Glenn, beautiful job! No senior moment there. I envey your talent.
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I've done some rusty machines, too - maybe gave up on one that rusty, Glenn. Most often the rust is somewhat surfacy and not terribly pitted. If it is terribly pitted it is a lot more work. Some times it is hard to tell at first glance if a machine has rust or dried up oil. Dried up oil will clean up with solvent. Some times I've used bicycle chain oil to clean rust off parts I don't really want to pull out of the guts of a machine. The green oil has some kind of detergent and will clean rust off. Think about bike chains and rain... Then I clean that up after the machine turns. I don't use evap-o-rust since it costs an arm and a leg. So for the little bit parts that come off and can be dried off, I put a pinch of citric acid in a bit of water in a zip bag and soak.... vinegar will work, too. Then when I pull them out of the bag I use a green scrub pad and some Dawn to get them cleaned up. Some times I put them back to soak after cleaning with the Dawn. If needed I wire brush with the Dremel. I don't paint. I just build up shellac. I guess I'm ok with the steam punk looking WORKING sewing machines. I like to see some history. Almost always those old machines can be made to run - it can be time consuming, right Glenn?
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Yes it is very time consuming Miriam, but these old machines are worth it. I know I spend to much time on some of them but enjoy the work and it keeps me out of trouble. :o
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Originally Posted by Glenn
(Post 7271171)
... I used automotive gloss black and primer from my local auto store. ...
That specific part number is a High Temp Ceramic semi-gloss engine enamel. I found it through my research into japanning. A guy who does professional restoration of antique japanned tools tried this product, and because of the ceramic content it lays down thicker and flows just like japanning. He actually showed a comparison between a "properly" japanned tool and one sprayed with this product. There is virtually no difference. If I can track down the original site I will share it. I started using this on repainted parts and it not only looks correct it blends with the old japanned stuff really well. |
Originally Posted by SteveH
(Post 7271932)
Allow me to make a suggestion for next time. Use Duplicolor #DE1635 Spray paint.
That specific part number is a High Temp Ceramic semi-gloss engine enamel. I found it through my research into japanning. A guy who does professional restoration of antique japanned tools tried this product, and because of the ceramic content it lays down thicker and flows just like japanning. He actually showed a comparison between a "properly" japanned tool and one sprayed with this product. There is virtually no difference. If I can track down the original site I will share it. I started using this on repainted parts and it not only looks correct it blends with the old japanned stuff really well. |
Originally Posted by miriam
(Post 7271945)
yes please do post a link!!! Not everything should have a steampunk look.
http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthr...01&type=thread and another great Japanning resource that mentions the DE1635 https://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/pl.../japanning.htm |
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