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-   -   Refinishing a parlor cabinet (https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/refinishing-parlor-cabinet-t289857.html)

madamekelly 07-24-2017 06:54 PM

I have a habit of collecting wood cabinets that look that bad, and dragging them home to give them a coating of "Old English Dark" furniture oil. You would be amazed what it could do for that cabinet. I do not know if it would bother the decal because I have never run into that problem. For really dry wood I have been known to coat the whole piece of wood to seal out moisture.
I was given a rocking chair that a puppy had cut teeth on, that had all of the stain and finish, and some of the wood missing. I brought it home. Used a little sanding to make it smoother, not perfect, and then used the "OED oil" on it and until I point it out, no one sees it. I do put a couple layers of oil on the really dry or scratched areas. Best part is the color of the oil hides a multitude of boo boos. I also use it on my dining table to protect the finish from wet glasses, and hide the rings it got before I started oiling it.

riutzelj 07-25-2017 05:59 AM

i have the same cabinet and machine, also with a rotted out base, though my cabinet does not need refinishing. i like the idea of replacing base with a piece of oak plywood. I'm assuming that could then be stained to match the cabinet's colors?

CathyL 07-25-2017 09:18 AM


Originally Posted by Glenn (Post 7870529)
Get lots of rags and denatured alcohol, and linseed oil. Get the rag wet with alochol and add a few drops of oil to the rag and wipe down the wood until all the color is even and smooth. It is a dirty job so wear gloves.You really do not need the oil. The finish is shellac and the alcohol will blend and melt the old shellac. You will need to do this until all the finish is off. You can use stripper but it is very hard on the veneer. Now you will need a light walnut stain to go over the thing to make it even in color. Then you will have to apply two or three coats of shellac. Then rub down the finish with wax and fine steel wool and then wax. Yes do all repairs first before refinishing the cabinet.

I tried alcohol and it didn't seem to do anything but make it sticky for a couple of minutes then go back to normal. I tried some formbys and that worked on most of the finish but there's still a lot of what feels like rubber cement. My rags is stick to it like it was Scotch tape. Is that some kind of wax? Polyurethane?
And did they rub some kind of black stuff into the grain in those days? I'd like to get that out, but it's not as important as getting the crust off.

Glenn 07-25-2017 11:31 AM

No it is shellac that gets sticky. You need to keep going with the alcohol or the formsby until all the sticky is gone. It is not a quick process. Just keep scrubbing until all finish is gone. You will know when it is clean when the wood looks dry with no shinny areas and no sticky anywhere. Don't use oil to feed the wood. Wood is dead so no feeding is needed. It is the finish(shellac in this case) that gives wood the glow you want. Of course the stain gives the color such as light or dark oak then the finish brings out the color and makes the cabinet pretty. The cabinet could have been waxed by a previous owner at some time. Take your time and it will come clean.

CathyL 07-25-2017 01:49 PM

It is indeed a slow process. The doors are done and look better, if not great. When I'm done I'll send a picture.
Thanks for your patience and help

cashs_mom 07-25-2017 02:24 PM

You never have to apologize for showing us a pretty little vintage machine. :)

The painter's tape Glenn mentioned will work. That's how they masked off the original jack instructions on my 66 Mustang when they repainted it. It worked great and didn't harm the old paper.


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