Oh, we have ALL learned that lesson the hard way... even IF we were lucky enough to begin by reading here. I did it to a White Model A (VS1) 1876 I lost a 1/2" diameter area of hand painted designs before I realized what i was doing. That image is burned in to my brain and makes me go slow. Kinda like a medical approach, first, do no harm...

I don't lean towards quick or cheap.I enjoy the time I spend on them, but I work, and have other commitments, & probably too many vintage machines. So when a longtime QBer mentions something like Dawn, ot Bug & Tar Remover, or TR-3 I give it a little test to see how it works. Somethings have a delayed reaction, like Dawn/water on a Davis's decals. For the most part I stick with SM oil and cotton balls. But I become obsessed with removing all the old shellac in the non decal areas. I was just wondering if others go thst far too, or are ok with just getting whats still there a little more even and shiny looking. Overgeneralizing statements about "we Americans doesn't particularly help.

Jim thanks for that. I don't feel as bad about having to remove most of the shellac on the Singer 99 I'm working on right now. I had to remove most of the shellac due to it was lifting off the machine. That was the only reason I did it though. If the shellac was in better shape I would have left it and just built up the areas where it was missing to match the rest of the finish.
Rodney

Hi guys and gals. I only remove the shellac that has gone south. I clean the shellac down to the good and then start blending the new with the old. Hopefully I will get a smooth and shiny surface will not be perfect but will look pretty. If you remove all the shellac from the black japann it will have to be re-coated with a clear coat of shellac for protection and to make sure it is build up even with old shellac over the decals and never hurts to protect the saved decals with a little extra clear coat.
Skip

Wow, what a difference!

Incredible! It's an understatement! Beautiful job, Glenn!

Jeanette