I'd like to see a picture of that, too.

I had a machine one time was from a line - I was told that the motor ran constant and every machine on the line was hooked in. To stop the machine you had to let out the clutch but the motor kept going for the rest of the line. Mine just had a Suzie homemaker motor and set on the table in a wood frame. Nice machine but it wasn't heavy duty enough for my use.

Miriam,

If I take mine apart I'll shoot photo's of the whole break down.

David

David,
Have to admit my cousin helps with motor stuff. Can you describe the clutch pad? I know just enought to get in trouble and after hours call for help!
I will go upstairs and get my phone to take quick pictures for you! Give me a few minutes.

Lisa

Here are the pictures let me know if you need a picture of something else. Will post and explain pictures in another post as I can't tell which picture is which while in reply.

Lisa

[ATTACH=CONFIG]540666[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]540665[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]540668[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]540669[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]540670[/ATTACH]

Lisa,

What I was talking about is some type fabric or pad between the large pulley that goes to the machine head and the 3 pulleys that go to the motor so it would not be a metal to metal scrape when you are slipping the clutch to get slower speed from a constant speed motor. I see nothing between my pulleys, but would expect the clutch to squeal badly after you slip it a while for slow speed sewing.

David

Lisa

After looking at your photo's it looks like you have a wider space between your drive and driven pulleys so I think there is some type clutch facing on yours that mine doesn't have. Maybe someone on the group will know what was used for the clutch facing and will come forward. If not I may try oiled leather for a facing.

David

Pictures 1,2 and 3 are of the part that lifts as you step on the pedal to sew. Pictures 4 and 5 are from the back of the machine. Picture 6 is a mistake. There is a another pulley that is attached above and to the right of the three pulley that I do not use. Hope this helps you two.

Lisa [ATTACH=CONFIG]540671[/ATTACH]

Lisa,
Thanks for all the photo's. I can see now I'm going to have to take it apart to see just how it is made. When I do I'll take photo's of all the parts.
David

So is it a simple transmission?

OK Folks,

I took the pulley's off. It was easy and I learned a bit. Below there should be 2 pic's of the two pulley's where they mate. I made a good guess as to the clutch material. On the driven pulley there is a ring of leather that goes up against a stop pin (see the tip of the screwdriver) and there is a flat cast plate on the outer side of the driev pulley's. It looks like my leather ring may be a bit worn but I'm going to try to adjust it to where it works for now.

David

Dried oil on both the leather ring and the cast clutch plate seems to be the reason for the clutch not wanting to disengage. Both have had a first cleaning with engine cleaner and a brass brush. Looks like they are both going to need a good cleaning in the parts washer. At least we are getting closer to getting the table back together.

David

31-15 Clutch Rebuild
 

Restoring this clutch has been a real learning experience. You never know what you will find. In my case I found that the oil hole for the main shaft had been filled in by a mud dauber. No telling how long since it had been painted over. I got the shaft out and found a key way cut down the side with a dry leather strip and a piece of what looks like hemp under it. The shaft is a tube that was plugged at each end and when I punched out one of the plugs I found more of the hemp looking threads that looked to be covered in a gunky grease. When I put it back together I plan on using a 0.13" felt wick under the leather and 3'8" felt wick down the bore before replacing the plug. The wedge that engages the clutch has several worn areas instead of a smooth incline so I am going to mill it back smooth. I am running all the pieces through an electrolysis cleaning before repainting. When rebuilt I expect a very smooth running clutch. When a bit more of the work is done I'll have several photo's of the restore.

David

I'm needing help again with my 31-15. The plug for the oil hole on the right side of the machine post is missing. I have the machines to make a plug, but I'm needing photo's of this plug to make one that at least looks like it belongs. Anyone that has a 31-15 with the plug if you would could you please post a couple pic's. Put a penny or a ruler in the picture for a good size gauge. I can use an old machinist trick to find the thread by threading a piece of soft wood into the hole and then measure the threads per inch. I just want the plug to look like the original.

Thanks in advance
David Hair

I now have the 31-15 clutch cleaned, repaired, painted and back together ready to go on the table. I think it came out well.

David Hair

David,
Looks great! Can't wait to hear how nice it runs.

Lisa

Several of the repairs were not original. The old oil wicks that looked to be hemp I replaced with felt. The wood plug that was used as a bushing for the drive pulley.


I machined a piece of Oilite to replace it. I think the Oilite will do much better than the wood dowel.

Really nice job! Your talents go way past mine but I sure enjoy seeing and reading the steps you have taken to get the "beast" up and running!

Lisa

Lisa,

I'm a nubie when it comes to sewing machine repair and just thinking about getting into restoration of a sewing machine or two. For my work machine I just want it to run well and we have materials today that singer didn't have when my machine was made. Anyone that really does machine restoration might just give me a cold shoulder for some of the mods I make. I do like to make the machine look nice, but working good is the main thing I'm after right now.

David