Singer VS 2
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I went to buy something else entirely, but then we got to talking and there was a sewing machine and it was a fiddle base and you know the rest...
The seller is making something with the drawers and coffin top, so I just bought the head, stand top (in bad shape - lots of missing veneer), and treadle base. The machine moves very freely. I'm not sure it will clean up much - a lot of the decals seem to be actually gone, not just dirty. Given that I only have parts of the stand, I wonder if this would be better converted to a handcrank. I've looked on eBay from time to time (just casually) and seen only repro cranks. Are vintage ones available for reasonable prices? [ATTACH=CONFIG]504890[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]504891[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]504893[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]504894[/ATTACH] |
it's a fiddle so it's to old for the standard singer handcrank, those need a cast in mount. you'd be very lucky to ever find just the crank for that old of a singer.
I've stopped replacing bad veneer because of availability and the price. Now all the bad wood get glued back in place, sanded smooth with a very heavy finish of lacquer, Then sanded to whatever shine I feel like it wants. The finished product looks fabulous, you see all the old splintered wood it look like ragged edges, running you hand over the wood it's as smooth as can be , along with missing design work, it looks 100+ yrs old yet looks like new. I have a VS 1 but with less decal left. no top and only one drawer. this one was also missing the same piece of that hinge as yours. I made that piece. Thats another long story, alot of welding a filing |
Vintage hand cranks are very pricey:<
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I have that same head in a treadle and it sews fantastic. Interesting note, I have seen 5 of those with broken or missing hinges and it is ALWAYS the front one... Odd.
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Great looking machine! The decals on the arm are intact enough that I think it will clean up nicely.
CD (ThayerRags) here has what I think might be the correct handcrank. They fit the Singer 27 anyway. It has a "U" shaped mount that fastens where the belt guard is. Those ones are a lot less common than the regular Singer cranks though. Rodney |
Originally Posted by SteveH
(Post 7036273)
I have that same head in a treadle and it sews fantastic. Interesting note, I have seen 5 of those with broken or missing hinges and it is ALWAYS the front one... Odd.
I worked for about three hours on the decals with sewing machine oil and cotton. It made some difference, but it's making me nervous. I can't quite tell if I'm actually cleaning or taking off decals. The finish on the decals is crazed and some have definitely flaked off in the past. I'm not seeing anything but dirt on the cotton, so I think it's okay. They're very slow to emerge, but I keep reminding myself that the machine is 124 years old, so there's a lot of dirt to get through. I think I'm somewhere between WWI and the Depression. |
Originally Posted by Rodney
(Post 7036325)
Great looking machine! The decals on the arm are intact enough that I think it will clean up nicely.
CD (ThayerRags) here has what I think might be the correct handcrank. They fit the Singer 27 anyway. It has a "U" shaped mount that fastens where the belt guard is. Those ones are a lot less common than the regular Singer cranks though. Rodney |
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Here's today's progress. I havent touched the metal yet. The decals look very fragile...
Dial-up folks, I downloaded an app to reduce photo size. Are these okay now or do you need smaller files? Thanks! [ATTACH=CONFIG]504994[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]504995[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]504996[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]504997[/ATTACH] |
Originally Posted by Champanier
(Post 7036688)
Here's today's progress. I havent touched the metal yet.
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Originally Posted by manicmike
(Post 7039996)
Looks great Linda. If you were very keen you can get the nickel plating re-done too. A bit of brasso works wonders on the Singer plate.
Meanwhile, the faceplate and other small pieces are in Evaporust. I'll see what I can do with polish. The bobbin plates aren't too bad. Thanks again! |
any replating here in the states will cost you big $$$$. Thank EPA for that.
you might look up eastwood you'll find replating kits for sale. next option is powder coating. myself just polishing the steel work well. |
Originally Posted by xxxxxxxxxx
(Post 7040859)
any replating here in the states will cost you big $$$$. Thank EPA for that.
you might look up eastwood you'll find replating kits for sale. next option is powder coating. myself just polishing the steel work well. |
The fine finishing polish is a wax base. next would be wax, as for shellac I will not use that stuff on anything, That stuff is evil, thats just me.
as time goes on, it will tarnish some, but you will also be putting more oil on the machine so rub the excess oil on to the steel. I have machines that where polished 20 yrs ago, they still have a nice bright look, but not the mirror finish they did have. These face plates , handwheel never were bright like chorme anyway this isn't any different than polishing silverware or pots and pans, jewelry |
I second X's comments. (except the Shellac part, although I would never use it on shiny metal)
The act of polishing reduces the surface area and removes most of the micro crevasses where moisture stays and rust starts. Once polished they are actually much more rust resistant then unpolished metal |
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Originally Posted by Champanier
(Post 7036574)
've never seen a Singer handcrank in person, so it's hard for me to picture how they work and go together usually.
http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post7041394 Here's the hand crank hook up. Does that explain it? [ATTACH=CONFIG]505455[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]505456[/ATTACH] (I'm afraid the handle is bent - but nevertheless, it shows how it is connected.) |
Originally Posted by sews
(Post 7041412)
Here's the hand crank hook up. Does that explain it?
(I'm afraid the handle is bent - but nevertheless, it shows how it is connected.) |
Originally Posted by SteveH
(Post 7041057)
I second X's comments. (except the Shellac part, although I would never use it on shiny metal)
The act of polishing reduces the surface area and removes most of the micro crevasses where moisture stays and rust starts. Once polished they are actually much more rust resistant then unpolished metal |
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