sews

This one dates back to 1895 - it was a sorry sight. Those who follow the Seattle CL will have seen it there for weeks. The longer I looked at it, the more it was calling out to me until I gave in - we went and got it yesterday. It is a 3/4 machine (like all my favorites) and soooo cute. I had never seen a hand crank machine in real life, nor a shuttle, so this was/is doubly exciting.

I began the clean-up, knowing that this little machine has been very busy and has been kicked around in the past 120 years. And the scars will remain. I won't attempt to mask the evidence of that long, turbulent life. The machine's "cosmetic" condition truly makes one wonder what on earth may have happened to it.

We noticed the absence of the check spring - so far the only deficit, and a new one is on order. I just disassembled the tension unit, and found that the remainder of the check spring is stuck inside the body of the machine, inside that hole, actually.
How do I remove it without breaking it?

I am using Tri-flow on 2 screws that are frozen - does Tri-flow cause any damage to the finish? I don't want to add insult to injury.

The machine was a little stiff at first, understandably, but picked up speed with a little oil and is now a very smooth operator :-) . We are so excited! My husband has declared it to be his favorite machine and will use it for creating his art work.

The hand crank handle is bent beyond normal and DH wonders how to best fix this, what method to use - or whether to leave it alone rather than to possibly risk breaking it. The hand crank is perfectly usable but the handle bangs against the casing just a little bit.

TIA for any advice! Oh yes, pictures soon!

miriam

We noticed the absence of the check spring - so far the only deficit, and a new one is on order. I just disassembled the tension unit, and found that the remainder of the check spring is stuck inside the body of the machine, inside that hole, actually.
How do I remove it without breaking it?
I would go to the TFSR manual and read everything about your machine. If you blow up the pics it might help.
To get that off, I would put a screw driver in between the posts with the nut still on it and turn it gently and see if it comes out. TFSR manual link: http://www.tfsr.org/publications/tec...achine_manual/


I am using Tri-flow on 2 screws that are frozen - does Tri-flow cause any damage to the finish? I don't want to add insult to injury.
I've not had any damage I've seen one person complain. I would not let it set on the finish but I would for sure use it.


I don't know what is wrong with your bent HC or how to fix it - a picture might help.

sews

Thanks, miriam. Here's a photo: it shows the problem quite clearly. The handle touches the little knob and also the cover. It just barely scrapes it, but it's not really meant to be that way - see original part manual.
DH is quite handy with all kinds of stuff but before he starts, I wanted to see if anyone else has had a similar problem and found a good solution.

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SteveH

my .02

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You have TWO bends to address. They are indicated by the red arrows.
The handle end is the most fragile part of this.

The Blue arrow shows where the pin is that holds it in place.
This pin is usually tapered so it only comes out one way.
If you do not have a pin punch set an old nail with the point filed down to a flat can be gently tapped to drive the pin out. then you will have access to the handle without risking the fragile cast iron body of the handcrank.

Once removed you can support it where the long thick green arrow is and GENTLY tap the opposite side (where the other thick green arrow is) to straighten it.

A few taps are better than one big whack.

sews

Thanks, Steve -- I may decide to just leave it as is for the time being, it seems a bit risky to try and straighten it. Maybe if we get another hand crank we'd feel more comfortable to try this. Or maybe DH can find a piece of steel of the same thickness and determine what it takes to bend something like this....

Here are some photos:


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The 28k is a 3/4 machine, my favorite type. I also have a 99 and a Bel Aire Bantam (in my avatar). The decal pattern is called "Victorian".

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The earlier models of the 28k had this plain chrome plate, later it is patterned with a grape vine.

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Interesting detail - usually one sees a chrome cover near the balance wheel, either curved or flat; here it is a cast piece to match the exterior of the machine.

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This shows some of the damage. Not only are the decals worn off, but big chunks of the finish are missing. How can that happen? And not just a few, these bruises are all over the machine....

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The hand crank mechanism. I have to admit I had no idea how this works, so maybe this photo will help someone else understand how the hand crank hooks up to the balance wheel.

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it would only take a few minutes to straighten that bent arm using the method steve has posted.

as far as crank hooking up to the handwheel, balancewheel.. it's that finger in the spokes, to release this use a finger on the back side, lift the crank finger upward. it will move out of the spokes. it spring loaded, it may take a bit of pressure..

anyway to straighten the arm just remove the entire unit, you don't need to remove that arm. something solid like a vise, using the flat area as a anvil and a small hammer, again light tapping it will straighten right out..

in the pic it looks like your missing the crank arm lock ?? should have a spring load pin at the two black tabs

sews

Thanks 10x and Steve --- DH is wondering whether the handle is made of regular steel or nickel plated steel, and if so, is it more brittle? Or is it cast? Do you know?

The handle seems complete. Not sure I understand, but it does snap into place at about half the length of the handle....

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the arm is steel, thats why it's bent and not broken.

sews

Received the check spring in the mail yesterday and was able to remove the old one.

This little machine didn't miss a beat - sews beautifully!!
After how many years -- 50? 60? Will be put to work ASAP.

So excited!!

ArchaicArcane

Hey Sabine - I thought I'd mention that your 28 has features different than we usually see in a 28 because I'm reasonably sure it's a VS3 - or the very early version of the 28.

The cast inspection plate and the unadorned face plate tip me off to this as well as the serial number allocation date.

My 1889 VS2 shares those features with your machine. My 28K which is a handcrank as well has the pear shaped chromed inspection plate on the back and the grapevines on the faceplate. My 1912 28 has the same decal as yours.