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-   -   Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell (https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/vintage-sewing-machine-shop-come-sit-spell-t43881.html)

Candace 03-04-2012 09:36 PM


Originally Posted by vintagemotif (Post 5032179)
Candace that is a cute White. Is that the White that was meant to be the Singer FW competition. If I were into machines with motors, this White is one that I would love to own, but I'm not. Cute machine, enjoy!!

Yes, this is it. Miriam swears it's lighter weight, but it's hard for me to tell since it's in a table. I guess they run about 12 lbs.

vintagemotif 03-04-2012 09:43 PM


Originally Posted by Candace (Post 5032190)
Yes, this is it. Miriam swears it's lighter weight, but it's hard for me to tell since it's in a table. I guess they run about 12 lbs.

From what I understand those Whites are still heavy, heavier than a Singer FW.

vintagemotif 03-04-2012 09:43 PM

Is it as tiny or harp space as small as the FW?

vintagemotif 03-04-2012 09:51 PM

Candace are you going to the TOGA in Turlock on the 10th. Regardless of your love for e-machines, you should joins us. Bernie has some very nice e-machines that he loves to show off at these events.

Mizkaki 03-04-2012 10:54 PM

Joe,

It's really rare for these old straight stitch machines to go out of hook timing. They usually had a roll pin placed instead of a set screw when the factory set the timing, making it darn near impossible for the timing to go out.
Frequently the needlebar height is the issue. Needlebar height always has to be set before

the hook is timed, so start there. This is the way I check. Turn the machine’s handwheel in the normal direction until the point of the needle reaches “dead bottom center”. DBC is where the needle is at it’s lowest point. Starting there turn the handwheel until the needle has risen exactly .093 inches. The point of the needle should now be directly behind the needle in the middle of the scarf (dip in the needle just above the eye). If not, where is the point? If the needle has risen .093” and the hook point is not behind the needle then the timing may be off. If it is behind the needle, but not in the scarf then the needlebar height is off.
Always start with a new needle and make sure it is not a stretch needle.


You said that the thread jams. Which thread, needle or bobbin? Check both tensions. Make sure the presserbar is down (easy to forget).

Cathy




Originally Posted by J Miller (Post 5031101)
This might be a bit involved but here goes:

I have an Edison HA-1 15 Clone. Nice looking machine but it's got problems.

I found the first clue in a bunch of bent and broken needles in the case.

I found:
The feed dogs out of adjustment, the were too far forward and impacting on the needle plate.
The presser foot was adjusted too high
The needle bar was adjusted too low
The needle bar and presser foot was hitting each other.

I adjusted the feed dogs, the presser foot shaft and needle bar using the info in the 15-91 service manual I was referred to. (The 15-91 books are not as close to the clones as I'd want them. There are many differences. )

However now it thread jams horribly. So I checked the hook to needle timing as best as I can and find the hook a bit advanced of the needle. Instead of being centered at the needle at the eye, it's maybe an 1/8" past it.

There is another potential problem I'll be checking on later today, but in the mean time, any body have any suggestions from hands on experience, or links to service manuals other than the Singer manuals????

Joe


Mizkaki 03-04-2012 11:01 PM

Monica,

I believe that your Eldredge should take a 20x1 needle. A 15x1 scooted down slightly will work just fine. Remind me when I see you at the TOGA to show you how to make a guide for setting the needle when using a non-standard needle.

Cathy


Originally Posted by vintagemotif (Post 5032144)
Last weekend, I cleaned up the National machine titled "The Eldredge", and this weekend I got her to stitch.
If my memory is correct, this machine should use a different needle than the standard 15x1, but I was able to use a 15x1 needle in the machine. I just slip the needle down a bit until it picked up the shuttle thread to produce a stitch.

I still say the machine has lost its soul. When starting to treadle the machine makes a groan and a clunking sound, like something is rubbing. When I look at all the parts that I can see, I can find where the sound is coming from. After I get into the groove of treadling, the machine acts beautiful with no sounds but the shuttle in the race moving back and forth. It is only the initial turn of the wheel that the clunking and groan is heard.

I plan to just bring the machine head to the up coming TOGA gathering in Turlock in hopes that someone else my know what is happening. It could just be a case of old age for this sad gal, along with the fact that the machine hasn't been used in decades (my bones would ache and groan too).

Cathy, can you please tell me what is the correct needle for this National.


vintagemotif 03-04-2012 11:07 PM


Originally Posted by Mizkaki (Post 5032240)
Monica,

I believe that your Eldredge should take a 20x1 needle. A 15x1 scooted down slightly will work just fine. Remind me when I see you at the TOGA to show you how to make a guide for setting the needle when using a non-standard needle.

Cathy

Thanks!!! Will do!

miriam 03-05-2012 01:07 AM


Originally Posted by vintagemotif (Post 5032246)
thanks!!! Will do!

oh cathy< can you do a tutorial??? I can"t make it to toga

Quilt Mom 03-05-2012 06:23 AM


Originally Posted by miriam (Post 5028399)
AND there are a few old sewing machine repair men out there willing to share what they know so that it doesn't just die with them. I wish they all would share what they know.

So do I...

Glenn 03-05-2012 06:39 AM

Quilt Mom just sent you a PM


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