What small, lightweight hand crank would you take traveling?
 

Do any of you have a small and lightweight hand crank vintage machine that would easily be carried in a crowded car or small RV? Which one, and do you like it? If you don't have one, which one would you like to have and why?

I have a Singer 201 hand crank, a real beauty. But it is heavy and big and not suitable for a small space or RV storage or RV table. I'm looking for a machine that will piece and straight-line quilt and - if it's not asking too much - also fmq. I would prefer a round bobbin rather than the long one of yesteryear, but weight is more important. I'd also like a machine that uses standard needles that I can pick up anywhere. One possibility is a Singer 99, but that is not all that light, or is it? Anyone know what a Model 15 clone might weigh? I also have a wonderful Pfaff 130 which will piece, zig zag, straight-line quilt, and fmq and it could be made into a hand crank, but is very heavy. Do you have any machines to recommend?

This might be wishful thinking, but has anyone seen a Singer 221 Featherweight made into a hand crank? How about a Singer 301 turned into a hand crank? What would you think about an Elna Grasshopper (not light, I know, but tough enough to travel). Any possibilities there for a hand crank addition? Any other ideas?

Cricket

With a name like Cricket Is Cute, isn't it a given that you need to have a Grasshopper? ;-)

Thanks for the giggle, Cecilia!

I would like to have a Singer 99 hand crank or Singer 128. I have a Singer 15 and Singer 201 hand crank.

I have a 99 handcrank and its the one I take to quilt guild meetings now. I used to take my featherweight, but I prefer the hand crank now.

Singer made an aluminum version of the 99 in the 20s ... 99K-10 I believe. I'd like to have one of those or an aluminum 99 clone such as my SEWMOR 303. It's a good sized machine, light weight but not too light, and uses easy to get accessories and supplies.

Joe

I have seen the FW converted to hand crank. One way to do it is with a steering wheel knob. Miriam has posted some machines with this "suicide knob". It is very slow -- one stitch per revolution. However I wonder if you could replace the handwheel with a spoked one, and then get a hand crank for it. I think you would have to wind bobbins ahead of time since the bobbin winder rides on the handwheel. Another option for the FW might be cutting a notch in the wheel for the crank. I've never done any of these things but I've seen them posted on the board. I think it might be Steve H who notches out wheels. I think I also saw a tutorial about it on treadle on.

Looking for a hand-crank too so will keep an eye on these posts!

I got a handcrank for my feather weight that works fine,if you like stitching slowly...1 stitch per revolution....very precise! Look at " bishopsewingsystems" in his e-bay store. I don't have vested interest in this...just giving info.

Thanks to everyone for the tips. I will check out those Featherweights. Also, it sounds like an aluminum 99 would be a great idea - I've never seen one around here or online, though.

I've been looking at RVs, and they have such limited space! You would almost have to build your own RV insides in order to get any sewing space. You would probably have to do QAYG. I haven't actually lived or traveled in an RV, I'm guessing based on what I see in the RV world.

NOPE no dice NOPE don't notch out your hand wheel on a FW. A spoked wheel won't fit so the suicide knob won't do it. You don't have a motor mount that will hold a standard HC - there IS someone out there selling window crank knobs stuck on a clutch knob you can attach to a FW. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FEATHERWEIGH...-/160874190414 Kind of a lot of cash though for a window crank knob. I don't know how those hold up either. See if he has any kind of guarantee on that before you shell out hard earned $$$. I think there is info somewhere on building up the side of the post to hold a hand crank attachment but seems like a lot of trouble. The Singer Spartan or the 99s will HC beautifully - they are small but they are heavy enough to stay put. I think a little weight when you HC helps or you might have to find a way to anchor the machine.

One revolution per crank isn't the end of the earth if you aren't doing production sewing. You can use a sidewinder to wind bobbins or like mentioned, wind a bunch ahead of time.

I would take this... (and I do)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]446339[/ATTACH]

I haven't figure out how to HC Cinderella. She is light and small. Her motor boss doesn't line up and it is too short of a distance. Her hand wheel is smaller than usual so I can't borrow one off something else to fit on her.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/sewing-machi...item565ca19796

This is an interesting hand crank mechanism. Makes you wonder if something could be mounted the base of a case instead of directly to the machine.

probably so but it would be a waste of a good machine.........

My Sailrite Ultrafeed clone has the monster hand wheel, like pictured below, with a handle attached. I've wondered why a person couldn't tap and thread a handle on most any solid hand wheel. When time permits maybe my 301a...... I might try practicing on my sledge hammered T&S first.:D
http://www.sailrite.com/604U_1_display.jpg

you can just drill and mount a handle but the handcrank give 3:1 ratio of cranks to stitches. BIG difference is work load and the 3:1 provides additional torque.

For situations like Miriam and the munchkin sewing sessions 1:1 is good, but I prefer the ratioed handcranks for sure

Steve

:)I use the hand crank referenced for boat cover repairs in situ. I concede the 1:1 would get tiresome for what most machines are used for. 1:1 with a largest hand wheel or extension to max diameter permitted would give enough torque for minor use. My rotator cuff would suffer, however.:)

Edit: I see Miriam has answered the 1:1 concern more succinctly than I in post #12.

Some of us don't have equipment to tap and fit the handle - besides you have to come up with the handle. Yup practice on that CRUSH and SOW first. I'll even send you the wheel if you want to practice.
THAT machine turns easily enough - might make a good 1:1... :cool:

I think it also depends on what you are sewing. If you are sewing leather ends on an occasional suspender a 1:1 would work just fine and it would be easier on the machine. Your rotator cuff won't give out that quick. For kids they don't last long no matter what.

Thanks for setting me straight, Miriam :)

It's ok. I like to sew with a HC. I learned on one. Took me 50 years to find one again - very soothing to not hear the motor whine. You have to use your left hand to control the fabric - not a bad thing.

here's the thing with light hand cranks, they might move around on the table a bit. I even have trouble with my 99 moving a bit when I'm winding the bobbin. I think I need a sticky pad under the case to hold it in place. Just something to keep in mind.

Wasn't there a calculator commercial for with one with big green buttons and little rubber feet? I think we need big rubber feet...

Here are two of my 1:1 handcrank machines. A 1943 Singer 29K70 and a 1957 Singer 221.

The boot patcher is nicknamed “Cope”. He has a Copenhagen Snuff can lid for his front inspection cover decoration. I’ve painted the lid gold since this photo was taken. I seldom use the hand knob on the 29K70 except for winding bobbins. I crank it for sewing a lot of stitches using the rim of the wheel, but rarely use the hand knob, and it has a treadle for long runs which I seldom have with my kind of sewing (repairs). My other 29K70 was missing its hand knob when I got it, so it doesn’t even have one.

The Featherweight is my hurricane-ravaged “Hurkie” machine that I sew quilt blocks with at Quilt Shows. Hurkie has done a bunch of block piecing. I wind its bobbins on it with the crank as well. An index finger can spin that crank pretty fast! To make the bobbin winder work without a motor belt to ride on, I put an O-ring in the belt groove. (Some kind of tractor filter requires the O-ring. Ask your local NAPA Auto Parts Dealer about his rings.) The needle has to go up and down while winding a bobbin, but I usually unthread the machine to take thread off of the spool that I’m sewing with anyway. I’ve used rubber bands in the groove too, but the black O-ring looks nicer.

I take Hurkie traveling with me, but I don’t recommend taking Cope along, at least not for short casual trips.....

CD in Oklahoma

I wants ta see the HC end of the FW.

Crank end shown. It fits nicely on the handlebars of my wife's motorcycle too.

CD in Oklahoma

I lived in a 5th wheel for 3 years while I nursed my father in law. The first thing I did was ask the people I bought it from to take out the TV. Then I put one of the two recliner in that corner up at the street FREE :)
I had my featherweight table remodified to seat my Janome.
I had a shelf made to go where that honking big TV was so that gave me a lot of room for tools and threads and bits.

I put a pull down shade above the steps going up to the bedroom with glued on flannel on it for a working wall.
I used the cutting board that goes over the sink for a place to put my cutting mat.

It is all doable, depends on how flexible you are willing to be. Best wishes!

Have you given any consideration to tenting? They used to make some big honkin Sheepherder tents several years ago. With a wood stove in them, they were kinda compfy. I’m not sure what happened to mine. One of the kids got it, I guess. If they aren’t still making them, maybe you could sew your own. Set the DH’s cot and all of the cooking gear outside under a lean-to, and you’d have a fair-sized quilting area....

Just a thought.

CD in Oklahoma

Great picture! Mamma bear and baby bear. Or Pappa bear and baby bear.

What fantastic tips, Kalamaquilts! Thank you so much.

And thanks to all who have posted on this thread. Good info!

Cricket

I especially like that part about setting the DH's cot outside, CD. LOL

Cricket