Wheeler Wilson #10 - "Semi-Industrial"
 

Greetings folks,

You may have seen this machine before. It used to belong to Miskaki (Cathy).

Its day of lounging casually in her garage slacking off are just about over.

Now, with Heather and my DD's help, she is in my living room and is a belt, thread, and needle away from getting back to work.

I have all three, but yesterday when she was delivered, was a 12 hour work day including a 6 hour tech support call with Microsoft, so I just didn't have more than a couple hours left to put into her.

But i found that:
A Wheeler Wilson #8 tensioner works in a #10
A Wheeler Wilson #8 set of slides works in a #10
0000 Steel wool does wonders to presser feet, needlebar, bobbins, bobbin covers, and hook mechanisms.
No matter how much rust is on the shafts of the Irons, a little Tri-Flow goes a long way...

The wood is rough but at this point I now have enough machines that need to be re-topped that i'll end up making it a weekend of wood....

Now if this is a SEMI-INDUSTRIAL....

As delivered... too cool.
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How about a SCALE reference. (Cathy REALLY wants this New Ideal...hehehe)
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Here she is after installing the tensioner and cleaning the working areas.
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One more thing... Two weeks ago I bought an "on leg" bobbin winder for my WW8 that turns out did not have a mounting point on the leg for it... However it is EXACTLY the same as the frozen solid, thrashed rubber one that was on this machine. Now it has a working winder...

Wow OH WOW! it almost looks like it was made out of an anvil - I wonder which weighs more?

Miriam,


Having carried that head from ground level to car, I'd bet on the head weighing the most. VBG Seriously it probably weighs over 50 pounds. It is now in a great home.

Cathy

LOL My anvils weigh more..... TRUST me... She is butch though. I would put the head weight at about 35lbs My anvil weight 75.

Thank you Cathy, you're so nice.... Sorry I could not be there to help unload the wee beastie...

It SEWS!!! I was able to load a WW needle I had into it and with a little bit of coaxing, viola!

I took a video but it ended up at 14mb. If I can shrink it, I will post it somewhere

Wonderful, it is nice when they sew right off the bat.
Skip

So, anyone have any bright ideas on how to put paint where there is none without making it look like a patchwork project?

That is going to be a hard one. I did this once. I cleaned up the existing paint and then took it do a paint shop to have the old paint matched. Applied it and polished both old a new and it did just fine. You could still see the diff if you looked closely. Now with that in mind I had no decals or painted decoration to work with. BTW I used and airbrush to blend the paint. Now keep in mind I am a woodworker not a guy who paints metal or cars. I would get some advice from an auto painter they know how to do great things on cars to blend paint and not see the patch. Good luck with this painting repair

yeah buddy...

I like the airbrush idea. I am fairly decent at painting cars with my HVLP rig, but this is a different scale. Blending is always the challenge.

The main issue is not to make it "showroom" but to protect and seal the exposed areas.

I really like the "clean it up first" then paint match. That will also allow it to take into account the aging of the pigments.

Nice, thanks!

Yes if you don't clean the old paint first you will not be able to get a good color match. My paint shop would mix the color for me in qt cans but no smaller. Maybe yours can give you a pint. Other wise you have a lot of paint but with the age of your machines you might be able to use it more than I.