Question for those who use older machines w/o a reverse or tacker
#21
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 1,040
I love to use my treadles and older machines ... but, I hate the fact that most of them do not have reverse or a thread tacking feature.
I've tried several ways to tack my threads so they don't come undone, but none are really easy to use.
How do you tack your stitches on machines w/o reverse and stitch tackers?
Joe
I've tried several ways to tack my threads so they don't come undone, but none are really easy to use.
How do you tack your stitches on machines w/o reverse and stitch tackers?
Joe
#22
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
On my 66-4 the stitches are controlled by a nob. It takes 7.5 turns to go from full in and the widest stitch, to full out and neutral. When piecing the quilt cover I'm making it would be a royal pain to sit there and screw that nob in and out every time I put on another piece of fabric.
Other than that it is a good idea.
Joe
Other than that it is a good idea.
Joe
#23
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 9,319
Joe, I don't know why you're going back and forth when piecing? I don't and have been quilting for over 20 years and have never done that. It adds bulk to seams and generally is not needed. Just a smaller stitch length for piecing is needed and that's it.
Last edited by Candace; 03-26-2012 at 02:33 PM.
#24
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Back and forth? Who said I was going back and forth? So far I keep my stitches at about 12 to 15 or so and put the pieces together.
The idea of going small then getting bigger is just out there for discussion.
My wife says just sew the pieces together, then when I put in a seam or a hem or add a crosswise part it will nail them down.
I'm not to that point yet. I just don't want the thing to come apart on me.
Joe
The idea of going small then getting bigger is just out there for discussion.
My wife says just sew the pieces together, then when I put in a seam or a hem or add a crosswise part it will nail them down.
I'm not to that point yet. I just don't want the thing to come apart on me.
Joe
#25
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 9,319
"I've tried:
Stitching forward a bit, then lifting the needle and presser foot, moving the material back a bit, lowering the foot and stitching over the beginning again.
Stitching forward then lifting the foot and turning the material around and stitching back to the beginning then turning it around again.
Starting in from the beginning, then turning the material and stitching to the beginning then turning it again and retracing my stitches."
This is back and forth to me. Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean. But, yes, your wife is right.
Stitching forward a bit, then lifting the needle and presser foot, moving the material back a bit, lowering the foot and stitching over the beginning again.
Stitching forward then lifting the foot and turning the material around and stitching back to the beginning then turning it around again.
Starting in from the beginning, then turning the material and stitching to the beginning then turning it again and retracing my stitches."
This is back and forth to me. Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean. But, yes, your wife is right.
#26
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
"I've tried:
Stitching forward a bit, then lifting the needle and presser foot, moving the material back a bit, lowering the foot and stitching over the beginning again.
Stitching forward then lifting the foot and turning the material around and stitching back to the beginning then turning it around again.
Starting in from the beginning, then turning the material and stitching to the beginning then turning it again and retracing my stitches."
This is back and forth to me. Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean. But, yes, your wife is right.
Stitching forward a bit, then lifting the needle and presser foot, moving the material back a bit, lowering the foot and stitching over the beginning again.
Stitching forward then lifting the foot and turning the material around and stitching back to the beginning then turning it around again.
Starting in from the beginning, then turning the material and stitching to the beginning then turning it again and retracing my stitches."
This is back and forth to me. Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean. But, yes, your wife is right.
Basically I was trying to stitch over some like you'd do if you had a back tacker. Pathetic attempt, it doesn't work too good.
Joe
#29
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Stephanie,
That's easy to do with some machines, no so with others. Query: have you ever sewn with an older Singer 66 or 99 or any of them with just the nob to control the stitches? It is not a precise way to adjust the stitches and it takes over 7 complete turns of the nob to get to the zero stitch point. That's why I say it's a good idea in general, but a pain in the butt with the older Singers.
Joe
That's easy to do with some machines, no so with others. Query: have you ever sewn with an older Singer 66 or 99 or any of them with just the nob to control the stitches? It is not a precise way to adjust the stitches and it takes over 7 complete turns of the nob to get to the zero stitch point. That's why I say it's a good idea in general, but a pain in the butt with the older Singers.
Joe
#30
I'm surprised no one has mentioned drag tacking yet. Put the fabric under the foot, put the foot down, put the needle down and start sewing, but *hang on to the fabric*. The feed dogs will be trying to move the fabric backwards and you'll resist the pull for a few stitches, then ease up and sew as usual. That will effectively give you a few teeny stitches at the start of your seam with no knob fiddling, or turning the fabric around and about.
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