Singer 99 with Chinese Hand Crank
#13
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
I built one of those some years ago when I refurbished a rusted up 99. The Chinese HC is less smooth than a genuine Singer but works fine.
I have the same problem with the case interference fit. That is because the older cases built for HC machines is actually a bit longer on the right end.
You can remove some material from the inside of the case, about a 1/4" should do, bore a hole all the way through then patch it (not my choice), find a modern larger case, or keep looking for a HC compatible case ( what I'm doing)
Joe
I have the same problem with the case interference fit. That is because the older cases built for HC machines is actually a bit longer on the right end.
You can remove some material from the inside of the case, about a 1/4" should do, bore a hole all the way through then patch it (not my choice), find a modern larger case, or keep looking for a HC compatible case ( what I'm doing)
Joe
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 383
Joe, Actually, I had been thinking along the lines of your first suggestion - two shallow, narrow slots inside the lid. The lid is 5/8 inch thick and the crank sticks out only 1/4 inch, which would still leave the wood 3/8 inch thick.
I had also, briefly, thought about the feasibility of having a metal shop cut the shank of the crank (the part that attaches to the machine), remove 1/4 inch from it, and weld it back together. Probably too expensive. Although there does seem to be a welding seam in the shank, not that that helps. I'd also considered shortening the shank by grinding down the area that fits up against the machine, but taking off 1/4 inch would probably leave it too thin.
Tate
I had also, briefly, thought about the feasibility of having a metal shop cut the shank of the crank (the part that attaches to the machine), remove 1/4 inch from it, and weld it back together. Probably too expensive. Although there does seem to be a welding seam in the shank, not that that helps. I'd also considered shortening the shank by grinding down the area that fits up against the machine, but taking off 1/4 inch would probably leave it too thin.
Tate
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Spring Hill, Tennesee
Posts: 497
Jenny at Sew-Classic.com, selected the hand crank she sent me and made sure it was well lubricated and functioning properly. We had recently spoken by phone when they were out of stock. I appreciate the care and diligence she used. My "cheap Chinese crank" was plenty nice and worked very well. It wasn't all that cheap, although not as "exclusive" as the overpriced vintage ones on Ebay. It was well finished, prettily decorated with gold decals and very functional. I see them on Ebay, all the time, attached to vintage machines. People try to pass them off as originals, because, lets face it, there aren't all that may old ones floating around anymore. I have no regrets from purchasing the two(2) I bought from Sew-Classic.com. Having a good relationship with your parts supplier never hurt either. What goes around comes around it seems.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Walland TN
Posts: 389
Why not disengage the HC and then turn it until the HC handle is in the down position. I disengage all HCs originals, US & European, and repros.Then you can carve or shave a bit from the inside of the case & it may fit.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lostn51
For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts
34
05-21-2011 09:16 PM