Singer 99 (Chippawa) Shellac peeling off
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Minnesota, Land of 10,000 Lakes
Posts: 1,490
Singer 99 (Chippawa) Shellac peeling off
I really need help. I've been buying Singer 99 machines. One of them I was going to use for parts (Chippawa). I started refurbishing them and now can't bear to take the little thing apart for parts. I got her to run like a charm. For some reason I decided I wanted to learn how to get old Singers running again, I love to clean them, replace parts, then listen how smooth they run once they are cleaned and oiled. Anyway,Chippawa has most of the shellac off. Anyone know how to fix her, the paint and decals are in good condition.
Thanks much, Stunned
Thanks much, Stunned
#3
Jmabby, I feel exactly the same way - I just love fixing them and making them run smoothly, all happy and pretty. I can't take parts away - I just want to fix the 'parts' machine, too. I have no idea where this came from. Good luck with Chippawa!
[h=2]http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/cleaning-repairing-shellac-clear-coat-vintage-sewing-mcahines-t186522-2.html[/h][h=2]Cleaning and repairing the shellac clear coat on vintage sewing mcahines[/h]
[h=2]http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/cleaning-repairing-shellac-clear-coat-vintage-sewing-mcahines-t186522-2.html[/h][h=2]Cleaning and repairing the shellac clear coat on vintage sewing mcahines[/h]
Supplies needed: Shellac
Denatured alcohol
Linseed oil (boiled)
Rags (old t-shirts or old tighty whites)
1. Clean the head with you favorite method to remove dirt and grime.
2. Wrap you finger with a couple of layers with the t-shirt.
3. dip finger in alcohol and place a few drops of linseed oil on the finger
4. now start rubbing the bed with light circular motions, add more oil if finger sticks to the finish.
We are now melting the old shellac into a smooth coating trying to eliminate the dull brown spots of old shellac.
5.Now go from left to right in a straight line ligthly lifting the finger and the repeat. you can also go from right to left if you like. Now we are trying to get rid of any swirl marks that were left by the rag.
Stay away of the decals at this time. Cont this tech until you have a smooth finish on the entire head.
When you have a smooth and clear finish on the head(as clear as it will get and you will know)
6. Now go over the the decals with the same method above very lightly.
7. Let this cure for about a day then with new rag on finger dip it in shellac and place a few drops of oil and with a circular motion go over the decals and the head. Cont. dipping finger in shellac and a few drops of linseed oil and do this over the entire head and decals. this is adding more clean shellac to protect the decals and the japan coating. Always ending in the straight line finishing to get rid of the swirl marks made by the rag.
8. Do this until it looks good to you and smooth and shiny. Let cure for a week and then wax if you want. You favorite brand of wax is okay although it is not needed now.
Please note: I recommend you practice this french polish method on an old machine first so you can get the hang of it. Please do not hesitate to ask questions anytime. I am always here to help.
Denatured alcohol
Linseed oil (boiled)
Rags (old t-shirts or old tighty whites)
1. Clean the head with you favorite method to remove dirt and grime.
2. Wrap you finger with a couple of layers with the t-shirt.
3. dip finger in alcohol and place a few drops of linseed oil on the finger
4. now start rubbing the bed with light circular motions, add more oil if finger sticks to the finish.
We are now melting the old shellac into a smooth coating trying to eliminate the dull brown spots of old shellac.
5.Now go from left to right in a straight line ligthly lifting the finger and the repeat. you can also go from right to left if you like. Now we are trying to get rid of any swirl marks that were left by the rag.
Stay away of the decals at this time. Cont this tech until you have a smooth finish on the entire head.
When you have a smooth and clear finish on the head(as clear as it will get and you will know)
6. Now go over the the decals with the same method above very lightly.
7. Let this cure for about a day then with new rag on finger dip it in shellac and place a few drops of oil and with a circular motion go over the decals and the head. Cont. dipping finger in shellac and a few drops of linseed oil and do this over the entire head and decals. this is adding more clean shellac to protect the decals and the japan coating. Always ending in the straight line finishing to get rid of the swirl marks made by the rag.
8. Do this until it looks good to you and smooth and shiny. Let cure for a week and then wax if you want. You favorite brand of wax is okay although it is not needed now.
Please note: I recommend you practice this french polish method on an old machine first so you can get the hang of it. Please do not hesitate to ask questions anytime. I am always here to help.
#4
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Minnesota, Land of 10,000 Lakes
Posts: 1,490
Thank you very much. It looks like I have to go and get some more supplies. I had to smile when I read "practice this french polish method on an old machine" This machine is 1956. Again, thanks much I will try that.
#5
1956 - that's not old! My oldest is 1868, and some have even older ones. Though believe me, they don't get "practiced" on at all.
I good "practice" machine is one from 1910-1920 with a worn but fancy enough decal left so you can see if you are doing a good job or rubbing the decals off.
I good "practice" machine is one from 1910-1920 with a worn but fancy enough decal left so you can see if you are doing a good job or rubbing the decals off.
#6
In terms of supplies, I stopped after I read (elsewhere, I think) that you should use shellac flakes that you dissolve in Behklol (which is some special pure denatured alcohol designed for shellac, so I bought that) because shellac has a short shelf life and should be used fresh. I couldn't find shellac flakes that weren't outrageously expensive though, so I was just stuck. A few months later, I'm feeling more practical. Should I just use a can of shellac rather than dissolving flakes?
#7
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 172
Hi Linda et al,
I am really torn about trying this myself -- I have a 1938 Featherweight that I attacked a little too vigorously while cleaning. I thought I was removing dirt but probably was dissolving old shellac. Now I have areas that still look brownish -- is that shellac? And if I remove that using Glenn's method, what are the chances that I'll be able to get a good, smooth finish the first time I try? I don't have an old machine that I could experiment on, and the metal work polished up so beautifully that I'm dying to get the rest of it looking shiny, but afraid I'll do a bad job.
Suggestions from those of you who've tried it? Glenn? Are you going to be near Denver anytime soon?
Ila
I am really torn about trying this myself -- I have a 1938 Featherweight that I attacked a little too vigorously while cleaning. I thought I was removing dirt but probably was dissolving old shellac. Now I have areas that still look brownish -- is that shellac? And if I remove that using Glenn's method, what are the chances that I'll be able to get a good, smooth finish the first time I try? I don't have an old machine that I could experiment on, and the metal work polished up so beautifully that I'm dying to get the rest of it looking shiny, but afraid I'll do a bad job.
Suggestions from those of you who've tried it? Glenn? Are you going to be near Denver anytime soon?
Ila
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