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Singer Featherweight - No light, frayed cord ! Any idea ?

Singer Featherweight - No light, frayed cord ! Any idea ?

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Old 12-13-2013, 07:24 AM
  #11  
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Yup, I'd say you need to rewire that machine before something awful happens.....

So, now I have a question. I just bought a 15-91 in a cabinet and the ends of the wires don't look wonderful. .... not as bad as this FW but I think it would be good to replace the wiring. I looked on sew-classic for a controller for one of my FWs and a bobbin winder tire for the 15-91 and noticed wire..... there is 18/2 SPT-1 and 18/2 SPT-2. What's the difference??? other that 10cents more per foot? 18 gauge is 18 gauge..... what's the SPT-1 and SPT-2 stand for?

Anyone out there that can answer my question?
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Old 12-13-2013, 07:41 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by nanna-up-north View Post
..... what's the SPT-1 and SPT-2 stand for?
Insulation type and size.


CD in Oklahoma
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Old 12-13-2013, 07:44 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by nanna-up-north View Post
Yup, I'd say you need to rewire that machine before something awful happens.....

So, now I have a question. I just bought a 15-91 in a cabinet and the ends of the wires don't look wonderful. .... not as bad as this FW but I think it would be good to replace the wiring. I looked on sew-classic for a controller for one of my FWs and a bobbin winder tire for the 15-91 and noticed wire..... there is 18/2 SPT-1 and 18/2 SPT-2. What's the difference??? other that 10cents more per foot? 18 gauge is 18 gauge..... what's the SPT-1 and SPT-2 stand for?

Anyone out there that can answer my question?
Hi Jean,

Beautiful wall hanging.

18/2 Spt2 has thicker insulation than 18/2 Spt1. I prefer the SPT2 for controllers and power cords and SPT1 for lamps and motors. I find the SPT2 usable for lamps and motors but a bit bulky with the extra insulation for UL knots and tight bends.

Jon

Last edited by jlhmnj; 12-13-2013 at 07:46 AM.
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Old 12-13-2013, 07:55 AM
  #14  
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you need to locate a sewing center that knows featerweights.. there was a burning of the wires . the rubber around looks burnt not frayed it may have gotten too hot what ever you do do not plug it in just in case there is a spark.
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Old 12-13-2013, 08:26 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by miriam View Post
Somebody on makes hand cranks out of window knobs:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FEATHERWEIGH...-/160874190414
I have a hand crank ordered from this eBay seller. I'll let you know how it works, when I receive it.
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Old 12-13-2013, 08:42 AM
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Do other stop motion knobs fit the featherweights? I'm just wondering where they get the knobs to modify for hand cranking. Also it was interesting to me to see a brown crinkle finish. I'm used to seeing either the black or light green ones.
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Old 12-13-2013, 12:55 PM
  #17  
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sjdal, Cannot wait to see how you like the hand crank. It seems like such a great feature to have in power outages, camping, power scrimping classes, or anywhere else where it might be a challenge to find an outlet.
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:12 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by ThayerRags View Post
Ok. Not to worry then. It doesn’t really “do” anything to the machine, except to make it more versatile. It’s just a matter of taking some parts off and replacing them with others. I don’t see that it harms the machine at all. And you can swap power systems back and forth whenever you like.

I have one on my FW, and really like it. You could think of the handcrank as just another attachment like a buttonhole attachment that can be put on or taken off whenever needed. It gives the user an “either or” choice of two power systems.


It’s great for taking to Quilt Shows to piece quilt blocks. That’s what I use mine for mainly, but it is also handy for use with children learning about sewing on a machine, for use nearly anywhere that electricity is not available, or for not having to plug-in when only a few stitches are needed for a repair.


CD in Oklahoma
i think that's one advantage of our antique sewing machines over the newer ones. we can convert it easily to a manual hand crank driven sewing machine.
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by gcandler4 View Post
you need to locate a sewing center that knows featerweights.. there was a burning of the wires . the rubber around looks burnt not frayed it may have gotten too hot what ever you do do not plug it in just in case there is a spark.
i will check and try to work on it myself first (OJT as they say). lucky me as i have plugged and ran it so many times when i oiled the machine. then yesterday i ran the motor again and that's when i saw this frayed/burned cord. the bay of this FW is so tight that i may need to remove everything before i can do my diag. i checked online and there's no complete wiring diagram i could find. if i can't do it then off we go to my local sewing machine store. thanks guys.
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Old 12-13-2013, 02:17 PM
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sjdal, I am anxious to see your answer. if it is just changing out the lock screw at the end, I have no problem. but if I have to give him mine to adjust ... then I would be worried. I do like that idea.
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