Threading the Elna
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Denver Colorado
Posts: 232
Threading the Elna
You know those Twilight episodes where somebody comes into possession of something that ultimately makes them crazy?
Okay so I have her all back together...following the manual and videos I've wound the bobbin...I placed the bobbin and I think I have it threaded through the rear slot properly.
When I go to pick up the bobbin thread it jams.
Been at it for a hour now.
Help?
Lew
Who just might name her Tina
Okay so I have her all back together...following the manual and videos I've wound the bobbin...I placed the bobbin and I think I have it threaded through the rear slot properly.
When I go to pick up the bobbin thread it jams.
Been at it for a hour now.
Help?
Lew
Who just might name her Tina
#2
Are you using the correct bobbin? This machine does no use a class 66 bobbin. If you are using an Elna bobbin is in the bobbin holder correctly? Is the thread tail getting caught in the back door? Is the top thread feeding at about the same tension as the bobbin tension?
#4
QuiltsRfun's post reminded me of one other thing. Do you have a good needle inserted all of the way up to the stop? Check for dirt or lint preventing the needle from seating properly. Are you using a 15x1 needle? Some of the research you did may have instructed you on checking and adjusting the timing.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Denver Colorado
Posts: 232
Hello,
Thanks for the replies!
I did get Elna specific bobbins - but interestingly enough they're very tight on the winder spindle. Really have to work to get on on all the way and when I pulled it off the shaft came along with it.
Timing - could be. No research thus far has addressed timing adjustment.
Bobbin thread pulling more loose than top thread - I wonder if I have it threaded through the tension spring properly despite the videos and book larnin'
Thanks for the replies!
I did get Elna specific bobbins - but interestingly enough they're very tight on the winder spindle. Really have to work to get on on all the way and when I pulled it off the shaft came along with it.
Timing - could be. No research thus far has addressed timing adjustment.
Bobbin thread pulling more loose than top thread - I wonder if I have it threaded through the tension spring properly despite the videos and book larnin'
#6
The bobbin should not go on the winder hard. The bobbin hasa grove in it that must match up with notch on the winder spindle. With the bobbinholes up put the bobbin on the spindle and slowly keep turning the bobbin until itgoes down with very little pressure.
#7
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Denver Colorado
Posts: 232
Yes - I did just that and it was very tight. Need to look into why.
As for instructions on timing - I think I found what I need and for the benefit of others here I'll copy and paste lest the link ever go dead.
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...ns/topics/7773
Hi Ed,
I'm assuming you have never had the machine sewing at all since you bought it with the broken hook gear. In that case you need to check a few more settings rather than just the hook timing. The height of the needle bar would be a good start. On my green Supermatics I have a distance of 35.8 mm between the top edge of the needle clamp and the bottom edge of the swing cradle with the needle bar fully down. I use a length of copper wire that is filed down to exactly 35.8 mm and this should just fit between the two measuring points. If not, loosen the clamp higher up on the needle bar and re-position the bar to the correct height while ensuring you don't change the orientation of the bar by rotating it. If you want to check the orientation, you need to insert a twin needle and check it lines up parallel with the slot in the needle plate. Correctly set, the needle clamp screw is pointing slightly to the right of straight towards the front. Once both of these are correct, insert a new size 80 needle and with the needle centering at center, rotate the machine until the tip of the hook is exactly behind the needle. Now measure the distance between the top of the needle clamp and the swing cradle. It should be 2.3 mm less than the fully down setting. That is 35.8 - 2.3 = 33.5 mm. If the difference is not 2.3 mm you need to reset the timing by loosening the 3 screws in the bottom of the bobbin case. While you have the tip of the hook adjacent to the needle, check that there is just the slightest gap between the two, all but touching is what you want. You should see a flat area just above the eye and that is where the hook passes as it picks up the thread. If you see a groove in the needle on the hook side, you have got the needle in the wrong way round! If the clearance is wrong you can adjust it easily.
With these settings correct, I can almost guarantee that the hook will pick up the top thread.
The fact you can get the machine to sew with the needle de-centered to the left means the relative positions of the hook and needle are not quite right. Check your needle type and position in the clamp. The more I think about it the more convinced I am your needle bar height is wrong.
Cheers,
Jim
As for instructions on timing - I think I found what I need and for the benefit of others here I'll copy and paste lest the link ever go dead.
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...ns/topics/7773
Hi Ed,
I'm assuming you have never had the machine sewing at all since you bought it with the broken hook gear. In that case you need to check a few more settings rather than just the hook timing. The height of the needle bar would be a good start. On my green Supermatics I have a distance of 35.8 mm between the top edge of the needle clamp and the bottom edge of the swing cradle with the needle bar fully down. I use a length of copper wire that is filed down to exactly 35.8 mm and this should just fit between the two measuring points. If not, loosen the clamp higher up on the needle bar and re-position the bar to the correct height while ensuring you don't change the orientation of the bar by rotating it. If you want to check the orientation, you need to insert a twin needle and check it lines up parallel with the slot in the needle plate. Correctly set, the needle clamp screw is pointing slightly to the right of straight towards the front. Once both of these are correct, insert a new size 80 needle and with the needle centering at center, rotate the machine until the tip of the hook is exactly behind the needle. Now measure the distance between the top of the needle clamp and the swing cradle. It should be 2.3 mm less than the fully down setting. That is 35.8 - 2.3 = 33.5 mm. If the difference is not 2.3 mm you need to reset the timing by loosening the 3 screws in the bottom of the bobbin case. While you have the tip of the hook adjacent to the needle, check that there is just the slightest gap between the two, all but touching is what you want. You should see a flat area just above the eye and that is where the hook passes as it picks up the thread. If you see a groove in the needle on the hook side, you have got the needle in the wrong way round! If the clearance is wrong you can adjust it easily.
With these settings correct, I can almost guarantee that the hook will pick up the top thread.
The fact you can get the machine to sew with the needle de-centered to the left means the relative positions of the hook and needle are not quite right. Check your needle type and position in the clamp. The more I think about it the more convinced I am your needle bar height is wrong.
Cheers,
Jim
#8
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,847
Regarding the tight bobbin, if they're generic and not Elna that may be the problem. My machine only had one bobbin so I took a chance on generic. I can't even get them on the bobbin winding spindle. Wound one on another machine and it seems to be OK when sewing, but I'm in the market for Elna bobbins.
#10
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,867
I assume that the bobbin race is spotless. The Elna has very tight specs and even a tiny bit of thread will cause the problems you mentioned. You have to hold both threads to start - same result. I don't know which model you have, but he 62C needle threads front to back. Sometimes it's the little things and Miss Elna is a very particular machine, but the most perfect stitching one I have ever sewn on. Mine isn't fussy about bobbins, strangely enough.
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