Warning on Vintage Brother Machines!!!
#21
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481

You should be o.k. with this model as it doesn't seem to have cams for different stitches. The later machines with the built in embroidery stitches seem to be the worst culprits for broken parts:< But, yes the top should come off somehow. It may be held on with the knobs or dials on top that are removed first. If it's never been serviced, it really should be...
#22
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 9,319

Trust me, the whole housing is one solid piece, no seperate topcover. But no plastic gears either. And it works great and is fast and smooth. It's in great shape and I just bought an unopened package of accessories from 1961 for a Brother with receipt (for a different machine). She is also center homing needle.
#23
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 9,319

oldsewnsew,
OK, you got me. It sure looked like it had a top in the first pics.
Plastic gears and grease - I've had and still do have a number of Singers and others with plastic gears. With one exception; a Kenmore Sensor Sew 100, every machine with plastic gears had grease on the gears. Some was an amber color, some was icky black, some was whitish. But all had greased gears.
So, on those I've cleaned and serviced I use Tri-Flow or the white Singer gear lube.
Joe
OK, you got me. It sure looked like it had a top in the first pics.
Plastic gears and grease - I've had and still do have a number of Singers and others with plastic gears. With one exception; a Kenmore Sensor Sew 100, every machine with plastic gears had grease on the gears. Some was an amber color, some was icky black, some was whitish. But all had greased gears.
So, on those I've cleaned and serviced I use Tri-Flow or the white Singer gear lube.
Joe
Last edited by Candace; 01-09-2014 at 11:25 AM.
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: NW IL
Posts: 493

oldsewnsew,
OK, you got me. It sure looked like it had a top in the first pics.
Plastic gears and grease - I've had and still do have a number of Singers and others with plastic gears. With one exception; a Kenmore Sensor Sew 100, every machine with plastic gears had grease on the gears. Some was an amber color, some was icky black, some was whitish. But all had greased gears.
So, on those I've cleaned and serviced I use Tri-Flow or the white Singer gear lube.
Joe
OK, you got me. It sure looked like it had a top in the first pics.
Plastic gears and grease - I've had and still do have a number of Singers and others with plastic gears. With one exception; a Kenmore Sensor Sew 100, every machine with plastic gears had grease on the gears. Some was an amber color, some was icky black, some was whitish. But all had greased gears.
So, on those I've cleaned and serviced I use Tri-Flow or the white Singer gear lube.
Joe
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: NW IL
Posts: 493

Yes, most of the Singers I've had have had this too. However most of the European machines I've received are typically clean...no grease on the nylon gears. Occasionally, there is an exception, but most Bernina, Pfaff and Elna techs don't grease the nylon gears or nylon parts.
Maybe even back then they were told to grease or not to grease the plastic gears???
#26

I guess somebody should hit me square between the eyes with a Quilting Board.
A friend’s (newer) Brother LS-2125i got thread tangled up in the thread take-up lever linkage, and I foolishly decided to try to remedy the situation. Naturally, the pot-metal lever link snapped in two while I was messing with it. The chances of finding a new part to replace it is slim to none. When will I learn?
CD in Oklahoma
A friend’s (newer) Brother LS-2125i got thread tangled up in the thread take-up lever linkage, and I foolishly decided to try to remedy the situation. Naturally, the pot-metal lever link snapped in two while I was messing with it. The chances of finding a new part to replace it is slim to none. When will I learn?
CD in Oklahoma
#27

I guess somebody should hit me square between the eyes with a Quilting Board.
A friend’s (newer) Brother LS-2125i got thread tangled up in the thread take-up lever linkage, and I foolishly decided to try to remedy the situation. Naturally, the pot-metal lever link snapped in two while I was messing with it. The chances of finding a new part to replace it is slim to none. When will I learn?
CD in Oklahoma
A friend’s (newer) Brother LS-2125i got thread tangled up in the thread take-up lever linkage, and I foolishly decided to try to remedy the situation. Naturally, the pot-metal lever link snapped in two while I was messing with it. The chances of finding a new part to replace it is slim to none. When will I learn?
CD in Oklahoma
#28
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 9,319

I guess somebody should hit me square between the eyes with a Quilting Board.
A friend’s (newer) Brother LS-2125i got thread tangled up in the thread take-up lever linkage, and I foolishly decided to try to remedy the situation. Naturally, the pot-metal lever link snapped in two while I was messing with it. The chances of finding a new part to replace it is slim to none. When will I learn?
CD in Oklahoma
A friend’s (newer) Brother LS-2125i got thread tangled up in the thread take-up lever linkage, and I foolishly decided to try to remedy the situation. Naturally, the pot-metal lever link snapped in two while I was messing with it. The chances of finding a new part to replace it is slim to none. When will I learn?
CD in Oklahoma
#30
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 160

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again:
3D printing.
I’ve salvaged many machines with “plastic” parts by simply designing and printing new parts. Nylon printing is a standard job. I prefer ABS myself. Nylon is anhydrous, which makes printing tricky if the filament isn’t totally dry.
I’m actually running some abs change gears in my metal lathe as we speak. Couple hundred hours on them, no signs of wear. They run between metal gears and the addition of the abs gears makes the whole machine much quieter and more pleasant to be around when running. Should they fail, pop a tooth or otherwise just wear out, an call up the file, an hour or two running on the 3d printer and I’m up and running again.
These days, I feel everyone should have a 3d printer in the house somewhere: its like having a Star Trek “replicator” at your disposal. Slower, but it does often seem like it makes things out of thin air.
I have also been known to machine out new gears in aluminum, but thats more involved snd much more expensive.
The thing is, just because a machine has a broken plastic piece doesn’t mean its worthoess. These days, there are oots of options to fix them.
The only machines I turn away are the newer ones where the entire body (and drive parts) are plastic. Those were designed as “throw away” items and thats pretty much all they’re good for. Too much to fix on them. Now, an older machine with a csst aluminum body is a different story. When they get a broken plastic piece, its worth fixing them as they often have more modern features that you just can’t get in a 1930’s-1950’s machine. I’d say a out mid 1980’s is right about where the machines are just nit worth building new parts for.
Of course, thats a different story if you’re talking about a modern machine you paid a few grand for. Thise are usually worth making parts for, assuming you can’t still buy replacement parts for them…
3D printing.
I’ve salvaged many machines with “plastic” parts by simply designing and printing new parts. Nylon printing is a standard job. I prefer ABS myself. Nylon is anhydrous, which makes printing tricky if the filament isn’t totally dry.
I’m actually running some abs change gears in my metal lathe as we speak. Couple hundred hours on them, no signs of wear. They run between metal gears and the addition of the abs gears makes the whole machine much quieter and more pleasant to be around when running. Should they fail, pop a tooth or otherwise just wear out, an call up the file, an hour or two running on the 3d printer and I’m up and running again.
These days, I feel everyone should have a 3d printer in the house somewhere: its like having a Star Trek “replicator” at your disposal. Slower, but it does often seem like it makes things out of thin air.
I have also been known to machine out new gears in aluminum, but thats more involved snd much more expensive.
The thing is, just because a machine has a broken plastic piece doesn’t mean its worthoess. These days, there are oots of options to fix them.
The only machines I turn away are the newer ones where the entire body (and drive parts) are plastic. Those were designed as “throw away” items and thats pretty much all they’re good for. Too much to fix on them. Now, an older machine with a csst aluminum body is a different story. When they get a broken plastic piece, its worth fixing them as they often have more modern features that you just can’t get in a 1930’s-1950’s machine. I’d say a out mid 1980’s is right about where the machines are just nit worth building new parts for.
Of course, thats a different story if you’re talking about a modern machine you paid a few grand for. Thise are usually worth making parts for, assuming you can’t still buy replacement parts for them…
Last edited by great white; 02-21-2023 at 01:31 PM.
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