What is the sub-type of this singer
12-29-2021, 02:43 PM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 9
What is the sub-type of this singer
I have this singer sewing machine. Serial Number : F5957330
It was made in 1915 in Clydebank Scotland. And it type is 15K. According to this link.
serial number site singer
It currently has a hand-crank. There is an option for a belt.
Can anyone tell me if the type can be found somewhere on the machine.
And what sub-type this machine is ?
It was made in 1915 in Clydebank Scotland. And it type is 15K. According to this link.
serial number site singer
It currently has a hand-crank. There is an option for a belt.
Can anyone tell me if the type can be found somewhere on the machine.
And what sub-type this machine is ?
Last edited by NeedleAndThread; 12-29-2021 at 02:58 PM.
12-29-2021, 07:06 PM
#2
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,261
Welcome to Quilting Board. I believe you have what is a 15k27. I am basing that on the descriptions at https://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollec...es/image28.htm I have been told that the "H.O." would be for the machines that were Heavily Ornamented. In other words, with decals. There is a Parts list for various 15K machines at http://www.maquinasuniao.com.br/wp-c...%20to%2085.pdf
There is a comparison of the different class 15 machines at http://needlebar.org/main/15chart/ However, I disagree with the blanket statement
While many of the later machines this would be true, it is not for at least one of the 15s. As seen at https://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollec...es/image30.htm the 15K30 has a wheel feed and roller presser foot and would be considered an industrial machine.
The 15k27 would be very much like the 15-30 (the domestic machine made in the USA). From my understanding, the difference would be the way that the stitch length is moved. The 15K moves the thumb screw up to lengthen the stitch whereas the 15-30 moves the thumb screw down to lengthen the stitch. Neither of the manuals is very good, but there is a 15K manual at https://www.manualslib.com/manual/36...inger-15k.html and a 15 manual at http://needlebar.org/main/sident/15.pdf
It looks like you may have made some stitches with the machine, but if it was threaded the way it is in the pictures, I'm not sure how. The first thread guide from the spool at the top, as shown in your pictures is for winding the bobbin. To thread the needle it should go in the back thread guide. I also see that you are use a cross wound spool of thread on the spool pin. This will probably cause tension problems. For a very good description of the differences and the possible solutions to using cross wound thread on these vintage machines (which were made for stack or parallel wound thread spools) can be found at https://archaicarcane.com/standing-a...s-stack-wound/
Have fun with your machine. I like hand cranks.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
There is a comparison of the different class 15 machines at http://needlebar.org/main/15chart/ However, I disagree with the blanket statement
Singer's Scottish plant at Kilbowie use the same model numbering system except that the 'dash' is replaced with a 'K',
The 15k27 would be very much like the 15-30 (the domestic machine made in the USA). From my understanding, the difference would be the way that the stitch length is moved. The 15K moves the thumb screw up to lengthen the stitch whereas the 15-30 moves the thumb screw down to lengthen the stitch. Neither of the manuals is very good, but there is a 15K manual at https://www.manualslib.com/manual/36...inger-15k.html and a 15 manual at http://needlebar.org/main/sident/15.pdf
It looks like you may have made some stitches with the machine, but if it was threaded the way it is in the pictures, I'm not sure how. The first thread guide from the spool at the top, as shown in your pictures is for winding the bobbin. To thread the needle it should go in the back thread guide. I also see that you are use a cross wound spool of thread on the spool pin. This will probably cause tension problems. For a very good description of the differences and the possible solutions to using cross wound thread on these vintage machines (which were made for stack or parallel wound thread spools) can be found at https://archaicarcane.com/standing-a...s-stack-wound/
Have fun with your machine. I like hand cranks.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
Last edited by OurWorkbench; 12-29-2021 at 07:10 PM.
12-30-2021, 06:53 AM
#3
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: near Topeka kansas
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Your machine has a boss to hold a hand crank. Therefore a motor and a belt could be mounted there if you choose. but I am a huge fan of handcranks too, and would encourage you to try it for a while.
Welcome aboard.
Welcome aboard.
12-30-2021, 10:39 AM
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 9
Thank you so much for your answer.
I did do the threading wrong in the photo, I was so curious to see if everything operated correctly. I have watched some more youtube video's and have no changed the threading.
I am a fan of the hand-crank. I do not have parts for a motor or a belt. At this moment I prefer to use the hand-crank.
Although I would like to have an extra hand for guiding fabric.
What is a boss ?
When I use the hand-crank, I have to move the handle away from me. When I watch youtube video, where they use a belt, they move the wheel towards them in order to get the belt going. Why is this ?
I noticed that the pressure foot on my machine is really short. Is this the standard pressure foot ? What is this short-foot used for ?
I have another with a long leg and a short leg. What is this one used for.
Although the machine has no problem with thick fabrick, In its current state, it is diffucult to change from 1 to 2 layers.
Am I missing a pressure foot ?
(excuse my english, it is not my first language)
I did do the threading wrong in the photo, I was so curious to see if everything operated correctly. I have watched some more youtube video's and have no changed the threading.
I am a fan of the hand-crank. I do not have parts for a motor or a belt. At this moment I prefer to use the hand-crank.
Although I would like to have an extra hand for guiding fabric.
What is a boss ?
When I use the hand-crank, I have to move the handle away from me. When I watch youtube video, where they use a belt, they move the wheel towards them in order to get the belt going. Why is this ?
I noticed that the pressure foot on my machine is really short. Is this the standard pressure foot ? What is this short-foot used for ?
I have another with a long leg and a short leg. What is this one used for.
Although the machine has no problem with thick fabrick, In its current state, it is diffucult to change from 1 to 2 layers.
Am I missing a pressure foot ?
(excuse my english, it is not my first language)
12-30-2021, 04:39 PM
#5
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: near Topeka kansas
Posts: 4,524
Your language is nothing to apologize for. Many folks who have lived in English speaking lands their whole lives don't do as well.
The boss is a protrusion under the handwheel that your hand cranks is screwed into. There is a tongue and groove mounting that you really can't see on it unless you take the handcrank off.
The handcrank reverses the direction of the power in addition to spinning the head 3 revolutions per one crank. Nothing to worry about, but if other sewists use it, you will need to tell them.
I am not the best person to answer your presser foot answer. I love the machines, but sew very little.
I take my machines out and do demonstrations with them at folk life festivals.
The boss is a protrusion under the handwheel that your hand cranks is screwed into. There is a tongue and groove mounting that you really can't see on it unless you take the handcrank off.
The handcrank reverses the direction of the power in addition to spinning the head 3 revolutions per one crank. Nothing to worry about, but if other sewists use it, you will need to tell them.
I am not the best person to answer your presser foot answer. I love the machines, but sew very little.
I take my machines out and do demonstrations with them at folk life festivals.
12-30-2021, 04:42 PM
#6
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: near Topeka kansas
Posts: 4,524
Lke this. We also dress in period type clothing that my ladyfriend sews. Quiltingboard Forums - leonf's Album: Hand cranks. - Picture
12-30-2021, 06:45 PM
#8
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,261
Leon explained a bit about the hand crank movement. If you look at the direction that the hand wheel is actually moving it is going the opposite direction from the direction you are hand cranking.
As bkay said the longer one is the regular/standard presser foot used for most sewing. The other one is what is called a quilting foot. I was kind of surprised to see neither of the manuals I gave previously did not have that foot illustrated. I've looked through so many manuals and that was a basic foot for most machines during that time. I found another couple of manuals that show that foot. One is http://andrewcaddle.com/wordpress/wp...ttachments.pdf I don't know if that set of attachments would have been available from the Kilbowie plant. The other is a manual that is available from the Smithsonian Institute for a 15 model machine that is dated 1945, but sure looks a lot like your machine. It is scanned as a picture per page. The index starts at https://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollec...2664/index.htm You can click on a thumbnail and it will open that full size image. There are arrows at the top that you can navigate to the next or previous image. The quilting foot is shown on page https://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollec...es/image23.htm The threading diagram can be found at https://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollec...ges/image7.htm It is a lot better than the other ones that I gave earlier.
When you asked
are you asking about sewing two layers together for a seam and then crossing another seam so that there are multiple layers to cross over? If that is the case there are a couple of videos for more modern presser feet that explains the problem and some solutions. One is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U91iJMKJ23g and the other is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UVoCX1oWwc If you are asking about practice stitching on layer of fabric and then trying to stitch a seam or just layering two fabrics together to practice, then it is possible that the pressure bar needs to be adjusted.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
As bkay said the longer one is the regular/standard presser foot used for most sewing. The other one is what is called a quilting foot. I was kind of surprised to see neither of the manuals I gave previously did not have that foot illustrated. I've looked through so many manuals and that was a basic foot for most machines during that time. I found another couple of manuals that show that foot. One is http://andrewcaddle.com/wordpress/wp...ttachments.pdf I don't know if that set of attachments would have been available from the Kilbowie plant. The other is a manual that is available from the Smithsonian Institute for a 15 model machine that is dated 1945, but sure looks a lot like your machine. It is scanned as a picture per page. The index starts at https://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollec...2664/index.htm You can click on a thumbnail and it will open that full size image. There are arrows at the top that you can navigate to the next or previous image. The quilting foot is shown on page https://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollec...es/image23.htm The threading diagram can be found at https://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollec...ges/image7.htm It is a lot better than the other ones that I gave earlier.
When you asked
Although the machine has no problem with thick fabric, In its current state, it is difficult to change from 1 to 2 layers.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
Last edited by OurWorkbench; 12-30-2021 at 06:48 PM.
12-31-2021, 07:53 AM
#9
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Join Date: Dec 2021
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Thank you.
@leonf That looks fun to do.
I am going to try the other pressure foot, including the tips from youtube how to get over a hump. (Yes that was my question).
The video did explain very well why you cannot get over humps with a quilter pressure foot.
@leonf That looks fun to do.
I am going to try the other pressure foot, including the tips from youtube how to get over a hump. (Yes that was my question).
The video did explain very well why you cannot get over humps with a quilter pressure foot.
