Kitten Adoption Tips

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Old 09-27-2010, 11:02 AM
  #81  
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They've decided to not adopt kittens because of family issues.
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Old 09-27-2010, 03:08 PM
  #82  
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Please do not declaw. It is horrible to do that to a cat. When you adopt any animal, you do so knowing there might be issues, such as furniture, litter boxes, vet bills, etc. If you are worried about your furniture getting scratched, don't get a cat. They do not all scratch the furniture. Make sure to get plenty of toys for entertainment, scratching posts, quality litter so there is no odor, clean the litter box at least once a day, change the water daily, feed them good food, if they are long haired they will need help with grooming so they don't get matts in their fur, they need a pet bed, and they like to have a place where they can hide..like an empty box keep their nails trimmed, make sure they don't get into any thread, be extremely careful when using the rotary cutter--some cats love the rolling blade, careful when you are sewing so they don't stick a paw or tail under the needle, provide a space near a window so they can sun bathe, and most of all, love them. Adopt 2 kittens so they have a friend to play and grow up with. They, and you, will adapt much easier. Please do not declaw!!

Elizabeth
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:10 PM
  #83  
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We really loved our male Siamese, Brandy. Unfortunately he liked to "spray" in the house. Guess what that means. Back up to something, often the walls, and urinate. Ugh!!!
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Old 09-27-2010, 06:48 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by oatw13
If they are going to be strictly indoor cats, you can talk to the vet or shelter about having them de-clawed.

Cats are usually very sweet and easy to take care.
To declaw a kitty is soooo cruel. How would you like your fingernails removed.

A scratch post works just fine.

And the clumping kitty-litter works very well. I clean the cat's box each evening, and add as needed.

Please send us pics of your new babies when you get them.

Cynthia
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Old 09-27-2010, 06:50 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by elizabeth
Please do not declaw. It is horrible to do that to a cat. When you adopt any animal, you do so knowing there might be issues, such as furniture, litter boxes, vet bills, etc. If you are worried about your furniture getting scratched, don't get a cat. They do not all scratch the furniture. Make sure to get plenty of toys for entertainment, scratching posts, quality litter so there is no odor, clean the litter box at least once a day, change the water daily, feed them good food, if they are long haired they will need help with grooming so they don't get matts in their fur, they need a pet bed, and they like to have a place where they can hide..like an empty box keep their nails trimmed, make sure they don't get into any thread, be extremely careful when using the rotary cutter--some cats love the rolling blade, careful when you are sewing so they don't stick a paw or tail under the needle, provide a space near a window so they can sun bathe, and most of all, love them. Adopt 2 kittens so they have a friend to play and grow up with. They, and you, will adapt much easier. Please do not declaw!!

Elizabeth
Thank you Elizabeth. You said it so well.

Cynthia
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Old 09-28-2010, 10:16 PM
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Keep the ltter box very clean. Don't let it sit, they will go potty elsewhere. Give them lots of hugs, frome me.
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:33 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by oatw13
If they are going to be strictly indoor cats, you can talk to the vet or shelter about having them de-clawed.

Cats are usually very sweet and easy to take care.
Declawing a cat is the equivalent of removing the tips of each of your fingers from the nearest joint to your nails. It also removes the ability of the cat to spread it's toes wide, like cats like to do.
My thoughts are, if you plan to declaw a cat, you have no business having a cat.
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Old 10-02-2010, 03:14 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by Angelmerritt
Sounds like you've made your decision based on family member’s allergies. I've been fostering homeless felines for over 13 years and here's a few things not brought up that I wanted to cover for you and others who are in a similar situation:
Allergies: People are allergic to dander (dandruff is for humans and dander for animals) and you can reduce this by adding Omega 3 & 6 Fatty Acids (with Zinc) to their diet. This keeps their skin moist and supple from the "inside out" so to speak. My favorite brand is Linatone Plus. It is a nutritional supplement and not an overnight cure (like a vitamin). So they take about 4-6 weeks for full effect which dramatically reduces their dry, flaky skin and reduce shedding too. Bathing usually strips the oils from their skin, causing more dry, flaky dander for allergy sufferers. Use a soap-less or soap-free shampoo (Hylyt and BioGroom Natural Oatmeal are my favorites).

Short Hair: Many people are dis-illusion to think that the shorter the hair, the less shedding or less they will be allergic (but you aren’t allergic to the hair, but the dander as explained above) to the pet. Actually, they all shed about the same but the short hair is course/heavy and therefore more easily falls to the floor. Medium and Long Haired varieties often get matts/tangles from loose hair (that is thin and light) that doesn't fall easily to the floor and stays trapped on the cat. To top it off, short haired cats tend to have more dry skin. I think the extra coat the Medium and Long Hair have traps more oil and moisture to the skin (which usually makes them less sensitive to allergy sufferers). Of course there are always exceptions for every situation. One more thing on this topic (I do realize I am switching to dogs). . . if you know of anyone who owns a pug or lab, ask them about the incredible shedding these short-haired breeds have. Compare their answer to anyone with dogs of longer lengths. Hands down the pugs and labs will win out every time (from over a dozen years as a pet groomer). This should help prove my point on short haired.

Declawing: Declawing is a voluntary amputation of the cats first “digits”. It is illegal in many counties in California and Massachusetts (who knows where else?). There are alternatives. One person mentioned Soft Paws (or Soft Claws). They are a TRAINING TOOL to change the behavior of young kittens before they grown into a habit of scratching. It is timely and costly but if done consistently, only takes 4-6 months for lifetime results. These temporary gel nail covers can also be used in an ongoing basis for older cats in homes with babies or elderly that have delicate skin. A few have mentioned change of personality. Yes, on an adult cat (roughly 9 months and older) they are so use to having TWO forms of defense and when their primary source of defense (claws) are no longer available, they become biters and quite defensive of anyone. Usually young kittens are not so upset by being declawed (once the pain subsides) as they are hardly use to using their claws for defensive purposes. The other problem with declawing is a chance of bone fragments left in the joint area between the knuckle that cause toes infections for years to come. I’ve taken in a few cats (surrendered from their owners who got a bad declaw at their vet) that required further toe amputation as the infection set in to the next knuckle bone up. I put them on pain meds for 2 weeks to help with their discomfort.

Scratching Post: Most people buy a scratching post but don't really get the right ones or use them to their fullest potential (therefore their cats usually don't use them). You need to get a STURDY scratching condo, house, or pole that is at least 4 feet high. Cat's like to use couches and chairs because they are TALL and STURDY for them to stretch up on (without pushing it over). You need to promote its use at least weekly by spraying catnip spray (or rub dried catnip) and attaching various toys to dangle or spring from the sides. Rotate toys often and move the scratching unit from time to time to new areas of the house (like moving furniture around in your home for a new look). Cats love to sit in the windows to sunbath and watch birds/squirrels, so start by putting your unit in front of a window.

Spraying: Cats who are spay/neutered at a very young age (before 5 months) don’t spray because they have never had the “teenage hormones” to cause the territorial/behavioral issues. Females are just as likely to spray as males (so don’t get caught up in gender over this)! There are 3 main reasons that cats spray: (1) unclean litter box or not enough litter boxes. Do you like to use the bathroom after someone has just gone #2??? With each cat, you should add another litter box (until you can establish how picky they are about a clean litter box. Reductions can be made if all cats are agreeable.). (2) Urinary Tract Infection. Yup, cats get them and it’s quite common too. The cat foods on the market often feed have a high grain content which changes the cats PH Balance over time and can be the culprit to painful urination. Felines will often urinate just outside the box at first and if not treated continue to urinate all over the house until kidney failure kills the cat. One or two rounds of antibiotics can cure this infection for minimal expense.
(3) Stress. If you or anyone in your household is going through a stressful time, they often pick up on your anxiety/depression/stress/grief and cannot process it. Instead they freak out and show their frustration by inappropriate urination. Such things as divorce, loss of job, foreclosure, death in family, new addition to family/household, and others can cause trouble with your cat. There are some alternative treatments for this because by the time your stress/grief has “blown over”, your cat has, made a habit of this behavior.
Please privately message me if ANYONE would like furthers information on what I have posted.
which cat food and litter do you use?
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Old 10-02-2010, 03:30 PM
  #89  
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We built our cat a floor to ceiling cat tree. there was a pattern/picture of what we wanted on the internet.... she loves it.
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