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Thread: 2 1/2" binding, how wide do I sew it? 1/4"? 3/8"? ??

  1. #21
    Senior Member teddysmom's Avatar
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    I agree with piepatch. I always use a 1/4" seam when sewing on the binding. Never thought to use any other.

  2. #22
    Senior Member happyquiltmom's Avatar
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    I don't trim my batting and backing until the binding is sewn on. I sew a 1/4" seam (using my 1/4" foot), no matter the width of binding, and then trim the batting and backing accordingly, usually 1/2" from the seam line for 2 1/2" binding. I like really stuffed bindings.

  3. #23
    Senior Member batikmystique's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prism99 View Post
    It really depends on the width of your batting. If you have very thin batting, you might want to sew with a 1/2" seam. If you have mid-loft batting, you might want to sew with a 1/4" seam. If unsure, create a sample quilt sandwich, sew on a scrap piece of binding, and see if you can turn it to the opposite side and have the turned binding end where you want it.


    One thing to keep in mind if you plan to miter the corners (which is what most quilters do) is that you *must* stop your seam the same distance from the edge as the width of your seam allowance. If you sew a 1/4" seam, stop sewing 1/4" from the edge in order to have a good miter. If you sew a 3/8" seam, stop sewing 3/8" from the edge. If you sew a 1/2" seam, stop sewing 1/2" from the edge. Otherwise your miters will not work out.

    Ditto. It's always better to use a scrap sandwich to help figure out what is going to work the best for the batting being used. It also allows me to check my stitch length to make sure it is what I need with adding the two layers of double fold binding to the three layers of the sandwich - total of five layers (vs the stitch length for quilting when you have 3 layers). Your mitered corners will look perfectly fine as long as you follow the above suggestions for stopping your seam from the edge. Good luck to you!
    Creative clutter is better than idle neatness.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by batikmystique View Post
    Ditto. It's always better to use a scrap sandwich to help figure out what is going to work the best for the batting being used. It also allows me to check my stitch length to make sure it is what I need with adding the two layers of double fold binding to the three layers of the sandwich - total of five layers (vs the stitch length for quilting when you have 3 layers). Your mitered corners will look perfectly fine as long as you follow the above suggestions for stopping your seam from the edge. Good luck to you!

    The practice piece is always a good idea.

    When I use a 2.5 inch batting with warm and natural batting - I use a smidge wider than 3/8 inch seam - but I prefer wider bindings.

    It also depends on how much you want the binding to wrap around the back - do you want it to barely cover the first stitching? Do you want it to be wider on the back than on the front?

  5. #25
    Senior Member QuiltingCrazie's Avatar
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    I would use a 2 1/4 with a 1/4 inch seam if machine sewing it on. From my last quilt experience, I was short on fabric so I did 2 1/4 when I usually do 2 1/2 and it meets evenly front and back. I'm hand tacking but if I were to machine sew it it would hit perfectly. I would test it....only takes a few stitches! Happy quilting!!
    *Rachel*

  6. #26
    Super Member AnnieH's Avatar
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    I'm binding a quilt today (DSD Christmas present) and only have 2" widths left for binding. Will use scant 1/4 inch and hand sew to back (fingers crossed).
    Annie

  7. #27
    Senior Member Mary O's Avatar
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    Well here's what has worked for me.I only use 21/4 bindings on small wall hangings and table runners and do the 21/2 bindings for the larger bed quilts.....I like the look of hand stitched bindings unless it's a kids floor quilt and then maybe I would machine it......
    Mary

  8. #28
    Super Member Daylesewblessed's Avatar
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    I use 2.75" binding with a 3/8" seam allowance, adjusted slightly depending on thickness. Instead of doing a sample to test, I set the stitch length to a little longer and start my sewing of the binding a smidge inside 3/8" and sew for about 8-10". Then I reach back and test the turn of the binding, which is my opinion should be completely filled with quilt and turn to the point of the stitch line on the back. I set the stitch length to normal and make the adjustment in the seam allowance. Rarely do I have to remove the stitches because the seam is too wide, but if I do they are bigger and easy to remove. If the first stitching was too narrow, then when I get back around to that side, I just sew past the original start point for 8-10" until I overlap where the right width is.

  9. #29
    Super Member mimiknoxtaylor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuiltnNan View Post
    i cut my binding strips at 2.25" and sew a .25" seam
    Ditto for me.
    Joyce T, RN retired
    Laughter is the best medicine

  10. #30
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    I agree with mucky that your binding needs to be full. there are two ways that I think about this---the first is that I sew a 1/4" seam from the edge of the top piece sewing binding on, THEN trim all thicknesses to 3/8" before turning to the back to handstitch down. Or sometimes I get impatient/stupid and trim first to 3/8" them sew binding on at 3/8". The whole idea to me is to have your binding feel full with no feeling of only the 2 thicknesses of binding fabric hanging out there together---needs to be thick to the edge of binding.

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