Fabric Book Sequence Help Needed
09-15-2016, 02:11 AM
#1
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Location: Gladys, VA
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Fabric Book Sequence Help Needed
all my quilting friends tell me I never choose the easy way. I'm beginning to agree with them. Here is the latest project problem.
We have a project for putting stitches on fabric so that we can always refer to what a particular stitch pattern and length looks like. Easy enough right? I drew a grid and I'm happy with the page layout. Then I decided wouldn't it be nice if it were in book form. And the problems began... i have to sew the grids onto the pages then sew the pages to each other in numerical sequence. So the cover has the back as page one, and then the other end of the piece has the back of the book and the last page of the book on it. Front and back are on one page and page one and page 25 is on the other piece. And then my mind goes just as blank as can be. Should I just do individual ones put them on boards and be done with it or is there a way to do this for the slow and stupid?
We have a project for putting stitches on fabric so that we can always refer to what a particular stitch pattern and length looks like. Easy enough right? I drew a grid and I'm happy with the page layout. Then I decided wouldn't it be nice if it were in book form. And the problems began... i have to sew the grids onto the pages then sew the pages to each other in numerical sequence. So the cover has the back as page one, and then the other end of the piece has the back of the book and the last page of the book on it. Front and back are on one page and page one and page 25 is on the other piece. And then my mind goes just as blank as can be. Should I just do individual ones put them on boards and be done with it or is there a way to do this for the slow and stupid?
09-15-2016, 03:26 AM
#2
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: lehigh valley pa
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i assume these pages are on one piece for instance front and back laid open left side would be the front and right side the back then page one and 25 would go on top of that? then page 2 and 24 on top of 0ne and 25 after you have all your pages together you sew down the middle this how i'm imagining your doing it but i could be wrong....can you just layer them and use gromets on the sides and put them in a ring school binder.........yikes i don't know.....maybe i was no help, i'm sure someone will come along and have a better idea
09-15-2016, 06:44 AM
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2015
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TkHooper,
Mine is probably more down and dirty than what you're working on, but in case it might help:
This is what I did. I stabilized each piece of fabric that was going to be a page, leaving about 3/4" to the left and right of the page for binding. I left space on each side since I'm not good at planning ahead and that way, whichever side the page ended up on would have enough room for binding. Then I stitched out the stitches, in my case I started at the top with a stitch at the default setting, stitched partway down, then changed the width and stitched some more, then changed the length and stitched some more. I did all the stitches on my machine. Each stitch had its own vertical column. When that was done I used wonder under to "glue" two pages together and then zigzagged around a piece of rattail I laid along the edges to stabilize and further secure them. That left me with pages that had a back and front.
Then I used the eyelet function on my machine along one side and made 3 eyelets spaced for binding. I punched out the fabric on the inside of the eyelets and did a Japanese stab binding with a thin leather cord.
Rob
Here are pics 1st shows the front with the binding cord, 2nd shows inside, 3rd shows back with binding cord:
<object type="cosymantecnisbfw" cotype="cs" id="SILOBFWOBJECTID" style="width: 0px; height: 0px; display: block;"></object>
Mine is probably more down and dirty than what you're working on, but in case it might help:
This is what I did. I stabilized each piece of fabric that was going to be a page, leaving about 3/4" to the left and right of the page for binding. I left space on each side since I'm not good at planning ahead and that way, whichever side the page ended up on would have enough room for binding. Then I stitched out the stitches, in my case I started at the top with a stitch at the default setting, stitched partway down, then changed the width and stitched some more, then changed the length and stitched some more. I did all the stitches on my machine. Each stitch had its own vertical column. When that was done I used wonder under to "glue" two pages together and then zigzagged around a piece of rattail I laid along the edges to stabilize and further secure them. That left me with pages that had a back and front.
Then I used the eyelet function on my machine along one side and made 3 eyelets spaced for binding. I punched out the fabric on the inside of the eyelets and did a Japanese stab binding with a thin leather cord.
Rob
Here are pics 1st shows the front with the binding cord, 2nd shows inside, 3rd shows back with binding cord:
<object type="cosymantecnisbfw" cotype="cs" id="SILOBFWOBJECTID" style="width: 0px; height: 0px; display: block;"></object>
09-15-2016, 09:29 AM
#5
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 9,504
I think you are making this WAY hard. Just get some transparent page protectors, slide the finished samples in and put them all in a notebook. You can put a piece of cardboard in the page protectors if you want to keep the flat. They can be pulled out at will and you can even pin them on a board by putting pins thru the notebook holes.
09-15-2016, 09:43 AM
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
I would get some sheets of paper, fold them, stack them, staple the centers, then number the pages and add whatever other info you want (such as stitch patterns). Then remove the staples and use the pages as patterns for the cloth book.
09-15-2016, 10:01 AM
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Corpus Christi, Tx.
Posts: 16,105
I like this. Kind of close to what I imagined.
Originally Posted by rryder
TkHooper,
Mine is probably more down and dirty than what you're working on, but in case it might help:
This is what I did. I stabilized each piece of fabric that was going to be a page, leaving about 3/4" to the left and right of the page for binding. I left space on each side since I'm not good at planning ahead and that way, whichever side the page ended up on would have enough room for binding. Then I stitched out the stitches, in my case I started at the top with a stitch at the default setting, stitched partway down, then changed the width and stitched some more, then changed the length and stitched some more. I did all the stitches on my machine. Each stitch had its own vertical column. When that was done I used wonder under to "glue" two pages together and then zigzagged around a piece of rattail I laid along the edges to stabilize and further secure them. That left me with pages that had a back and front.
Then I used the eyelet function on my machine along one side and made 3 eyelets spaced for binding. I punched out the fabric on the inside of the eyelets and did a Japanese stab binding with a thin leather cord.
Rob
Here are pics 1st shows the front with the binding cord, 2nd shows inside, 3rd shows back with binding cord:
<object type="cosymantecnisbfw" cotype="cs" id="SILOBFWOBJECTID" style="width: 0px; height: 0px; display: block;"></object>
Mine is probably more down and dirty than what you're working on, but in case it might help:
This is what I did. I stabilized each piece of fabric that was going to be a page, leaving about 3/4" to the left and right of the page for binding. I left space on each side since I'm not good at planning ahead and that way, whichever side the page ended up on would have enough room for binding. Then I stitched out the stitches, in my case I started at the top with a stitch at the default setting, stitched partway down, then changed the width and stitched some more, then changed the length and stitched some more. I did all the stitches on my machine. Each stitch had its own vertical column. When that was done I used wonder under to "glue" two pages together and then zigzagged around a piece of rattail I laid along the edges to stabilize and further secure them. That left me with pages that had a back and front.
Then I used the eyelet function on my machine along one side and made 3 eyelets spaced for binding. I punched out the fabric on the inside of the eyelets and did a Japanese stab binding with a thin leather cord.
Rob
Here are pics 1st shows the front with the binding cord, 2nd shows inside, 3rd shows back with binding cord:
<object type="cosymantecnisbfw" cotype="cs" id="SILOBFWOBJECTID" style="width: 0px; height: 0px; display: block;"></object>
09-15-2016, 12:39 PM
#8
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gladys, VA
Posts: 1,626
prism that sounds like exactly what I need to do.
Rob if I had talked to you first before I started on this project your design would have been perfect.
Since I've already cut the pieces I'll go with prism's suggestion.
Thanks all for your imput I was ready to scream and pull my remaining hair out.
Rob if I had talked to you first before I started on this project your design would have been perfect.
Since I've already cut the pieces I'll go with prism's suggestion.
Thanks all for your imput I was ready to scream and pull my remaining hair out.
09-17-2016, 10:34 AM
#10
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: East Arkansas
Posts: 2,534
Originally Posted by rryder
TkHooper,
Mine is probably more down and dirty than what you're working on, but in case it might help:
This is what I did. I stabilized each piece of fabric that was going to be a page, leaving about 3/4" to the left and right of the page for binding. I left space on each side since I'm not good at planning ahead and that way, whichever side the page ended up on would have enough room for binding. Then I stitched out the stitches, in my case I started at the top with a stitch at the default setting, stitched partway down, then changed the width and stitched some more, then changed the length and stitched some more. I did all the stitches on my machine. Each stitch had its own vertical column. When that was done I used wonder under to "glue" two pages together and then zigzagged around a piece of rattail I laid along the edges to stabilize and further secure them. That left me with pages that had a back and front.
Then I used the eyelet function on my machine along one side and made 3 eyelets spaced for binding. I punched out the fabric on the inside of the eyelets and did a Japanese stab binding with a thin leather cord.
Rob
Here are pics 1st shows the front with the binding cord, 2nd shows inside, 3rd shows back with binding cord:
<object type="cosymantecnisbfw" cotype="cs" id="SILOBFWOBJECTID" style="width: 0px; height: 0px; display: block;"></object>
Mine is probably more down and dirty than what you're working on, but in case it might help:
This is what I did. I stabilized each piece of fabric that was going to be a page, leaving about 3/4" to the left and right of the page for binding. I left space on each side since I'm not good at planning ahead and that way, whichever side the page ended up on would have enough room for binding. Then I stitched out the stitches, in my case I started at the top with a stitch at the default setting, stitched partway down, then changed the width and stitched some more, then changed the length and stitched some more. I did all the stitches on my machine. Each stitch had its own vertical column. When that was done I used wonder under to "glue" two pages together and then zigzagged around a piece of rattail I laid along the edges to stabilize and further secure them. That left me with pages that had a back and front.
Then I used the eyelet function on my machine along one side and made 3 eyelets spaced for binding. I punched out the fabric on the inside of the eyelets and did a Japanese stab binding with a thin leather cord.
Rob
Here are pics 1st shows the front with the binding cord, 2nd shows inside, 3rd shows back with binding cord:
<object type="cosymantecnisbfw" cotype="cs" id="SILOBFWOBJECTID" style="width: 0px; height: 0px; display: block;"></object>
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