quilting with bias outside edges
#21
Power Poster
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southern USA
Posts: 15,967
One Best in Show at Paducah quilter told the group of onlookers, one of her tricks is she always fuses featherweight interfacing to the back of her quilt top and back of her backing before layering. The quilt doesn't move a smidge when quilting. She buys it in wide lengths on a roll direct from a manufacturer. That's all I remember. Can't even remember who the quilter was. She had dark hair. LOL
#22
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
One Best in Show at Paducah quilter told the group of onlookers, one of her tricks is she always fuses featherweight interfacing to the back of her quilt top and back of her backing before layering. The quilt doesn't move a smidge when quilting. She buys it in wide lengths on a roll direct from a manufacturer. That's all I remember. Can't even remember who the quilter was. She had dark hair. LOL
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 777
Basting will secure those bias edges....but the problem in my mind is that those setting triangles were incorrectly created and pieced onto that top. I have always cut that square ( whatever size needed), then cut the two diagonals, but the outside straight of grain of that square is what is the edge of the top. The bias cuts I created with those two diagonals are sewed onto the blocks that are on point, corners done with hsts.
hugs,
Charlotte
Last edited by charlottequilts; 07-11-2016 at 11:20 AM. Reason: attempted clarity
#25
Super Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,391
I would sew a reinforcement onto the edges, sort of like what you find in the shoulder seams of a t-shirt. Measure how long the edge is suppose to be. Cut the reinforcement and pin both ends to the ends of the quilt, then the middle and then the middle of that until you have pins set only a few inches apart. It's just like putting on a border. In fact, a border of straight grain fabric may be the answer to your problem. Measure carefully in the center of the quilt and pin bountifully.
#26
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: In the desert,US
Posts: 123
This thread is exactly where I am on a project! Sewing on a Juki 2010, and the quilt I'm working on is mostly cut on the bias. I have learned that I will pay more attention to blocks cut on the bias, as they really require care to not stretch them. Thanks for all the suggestions and information!
#27
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 9,018
Hi, Geri - The quilt as assembled in long, diagonal rows. The two sides of the right triangles fit into the ends of each row. The bottom sat against the 4-patch next to it, and the side was against the last block in the next row. It wouldn't have fit the other way, as the bias side was one size and the two other sides were another. One by One's suggestion of the interfacing on a roll would stabilize them, but I'd also bet there's another way to cut them. Hope this makes sense. They were isosceles triangles.
hugs,
Charlotte
hugs,
Charlotte
#28
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 1,231
I would do a line of machine stitching on the top only, all around, just a tad bit smaller than my scant 1/4, then I'd go ahead and make my sandwhich.
I would worry that if I stitched all 3 layers together, then I would end up with puff somewhere that I didn't want it in the center!
No matter what you do, I think the consensus on here is to stitch your edges first. Good Luck!
I would worry that if I stitched all 3 layers together, then I would end up with puff somewhere that I didn't want it in the center!
No matter what you do, I think the consensus on here is to stitch your edges first. Good Luck!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
craftybear
Links and Resources
11
02-15-2011 09:33 PM
craftybear
Links and Resources
0
01-30-2011 09:14 PM
craftybear
Main
14
07-05-2010 07:31 PM